Topic: how about these for a frame kit?

[Don R]

 I saw these while looking for bolt on options, of course these need welding. I was wondering what others have found. If a guy bought two 10 packs that's 5 kits for around $55 for each set.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155938935733?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=155938935733&targetid=2315656070616&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9021994&poi=&campaignid=19897882922&mkgroupid=167737926150&rlsatarget=pla-2315656070616&abcId=9308185&merchantid=118974993&geoid=9021994&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwk8e1BhALEiwAc8MHiBhBF7NZdoKeKcBToFmBiNYT0qnUWuHOF4UUff4BMqfRbWqOHGq5ABoCbPwQAvD_BwE

[Don R]

 Or a set of these for $80?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266847971060?var=&_ul=GB&type=2&pub=5575403537&toolid=10001&campid=5339046648&item=266847971060&customid=eb%3Ab%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A266847971060%3Bb3eb304543c611743a0456f64fe252d1&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A18fCLsKa3Q22RzncfC_dXVA19&msclkid=b3eb304543c611743a0456f64fe252d1&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax+US&utm_term=2324505021064440&utm_content=PMax+Assets&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&ufes_redirect=true

[Don R]

 I'm not looking for a debate on whether cutting one is a good idea, the fact is many are already cut, the kit makes sense to put metal back on a modified bike. I already did a tig weld Gordons kit and a Frank's style bolt on aluminum kit which is my preference.

[PeWe]

This has been up before, maybe max 1 year ago.
Someone posted with link to US site selling clamps. Those looked good. Not that thick either.

I searched a little and found  alternatives "split collar tube clamp"  or "roll cage tube clamps" when searching.

But did not find the good looking ones.

For 1" pipe might work.
Measured on a frame with old paint, 25.7mm, just a little more so a clamp for  1" (25.4mm) tube when sanded can fit.

Frank's kit have rather slim clamps which is needed, especially close to the ign coils and carbs.

[rotortiller]

Not my cup of tea but those indexed ones look nice.

[willbird]

They are I suppose getting welded in but the .065 wall section is really short on the indexed ones.

[newday777]

but those indexed ones look nice.

But they look a tad short going inside the frame tubes, is it the proper diameter to be snug inside the frame, and only having 1 bolt, might get some flex? They might work, maybe.
Are they the right size for our frame tubing or are they for SAE tubing? Not a lot of information in the description of the link.

[Don R]

 I searched a couple times for the older post and didn't find it. I had the same concerns about the thicker bolt on's. I'd assume a guy would need to thin them out at least on one side. On the weld on clamps, the weld would be doing all of the work.

[willbird]

I searched a couple times for the older post and didn't find it. I had the same concerns about the thicker bolt on's. I'd assume a guy would need to thin them out at least on one side. On the weld on clamps, the weld would be doing all of the work.

I far prefer if I am designing something like that for the weld to have some support, not end up like a butt weld.

[rotortiller]

All the welds on the bike are butt welds. I certainly understand your point about increased joint strength especially with crap welding, however would it not be fine like the rest of the bike welded joints if done correctly?

[calj737]

All the welds on the bike are butt welds. I certainly understand your point about increased joint strength especially with crap welding, however would it not be fine like the rest of the bike welded joints if done correctly?

Actually most of the welds on these bikes are “lap welds” not butt welds. The tube sections that intersect the steering head are fillet welds and plenty strong and supported by full penetration of the tube to the head. Gussets are lap welded to tubes. All of this remains common practice in structural designs and ample in strength.

[Don R]

 I attempted to cut apart a splice joint on a front frame tube riser near the neck. Someone here had suggested drilling the spot / plug welds would make it easy to take apart so I could duplicate the joint on a rust repair. In fact, I mostly destroyed the joint and still didn't get it apart.  I didn't recover the repair part in full and ended up doing my own sleeve splices, lower on the tube and tig welding it.
 Still, to replace a tube that's been gone for decades on a drag bike frame I'm not overly concerned about a tig weld failure.

[willbird]

All the welds on the bike are butt welds. I certainly understand your point about increased joint strength especially with crap welding, however would it not be fine like the rest of the bike welded joints if done correctly?

We each make our own decisions about how we proceed with things ;-). In my case the difference would be in making something I consider proper, or buying something I consider inferior for the best part of $200. In the end only I would ever know the difference, but making that difference in most things I do is what motivates me to DO them ;-). This is how I will do it I think........

https://imgur.com/BqZCxsm

Bll

[rotortiller]

his is how I will do it I think

That certainly looks nice.

[newday777]

All the welds on the bike are butt welds. I certainly understand your point about increased joint strength especially with crap welding, however would it not be fine like the rest of the bike welded joints if done correctly?

We each make our own decisions about how we proceed with things ;-). In my case the difference would be in making something I consider proper, or buying something I consider inferior for the best part of $200. In the end only I would ever know the difference, but making that difference in most things I do is what motivates me to DO them ;-). This is how I will do it I think........

https://imgur.com/BqZCxsm

Bll

👍👍👍

[xhevi]

This is what I used.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256582942447?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JIdap82mTWu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ps0NqcUVRFa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I still have to weld all 4.

[scottly]

This is what I used.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256582942447?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JIdap82mTWu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ps0NqcUVRFa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I still have to weld all 4.

Before you weld those, you might want to consider how you are going to remove the tubes, especially if you keep the triangle piece connecting them. The way that clamp is mounted, it can't let the removable part go down, only up.

[xhevi]

I had to get back in the top end after rebuilt and decided not to take the engine out again. So hacked the frame.

The way I see it. These are subjected only to tension or compression forces. I did the math and the single bolt on shear has more strength then the frame tube the welds as well.

I am NOT discrediting the "non-weld kits".

But to me the bungs and welds would be stronger then any clamps that rely only on the friction between the frame tubes and clamps. And there are 8 of these friction only points with the "no weld" kits.

[xhevi]

That is correct. Everything needs to be lined up perfectly.

I did splice the bottom of the triangle as well, just like the sides.

I had to get back in the top end scared after rebuilt and decided not to take the engine out again. So hacked the frame.

The way I see it. These are subjected only to tension or compression forces. I did the math and the single bolt on shear has more strength then the frame tube the welds as well.

I am NOT discrediting the "non-weld kits".

But to me the bungs and welds would be stronger then any clamps that rely only on the friction between the frame tubes and clamps. And there are 8 of these friction only points with the "no weld" kits.

[Don R]

 My Gordons kit seemed heavy so I counter bored the parts where possible, I also made tapped plates for inside of the triangle bolted with button head machine screws rather than use the plates, bolts and nuts. I even sanded a radius on the edges so the plates snuggled in tightly.
 I had a lot of time that winter.

[PeWe]

I have a Gordons kit on the shelf.
Too much work and weld skills + equipment to get it installed.
I contacted Frank and got a weldless kit again.

This to my K2 frame that already had frame cut before I bought it. A simple frame kit.
Franks just to add on.

My K6 got Franks kit earlier when I had to redo cyl studs and head stuff  before spring 2014.
Everything was assembled.
Easy to cut despite carbs on.

[Don R]

 When I added the bars that were removed from an F1 to put into a K2 frame it took a bit of tweaking, possibly due to my fitment or either bike being bent during its time on the track/road. I didn't even think of cutting the triangle in the middle, that might have made it easier, or maybe harder. L0L!
 That was the Frank style clamp on kit.
 The smaller 1" interlocking weld in clamps are under $25 for two, if you buy two pair so I ordered a set of those for my brother's bike, they have some sort of a captured nut rather than threading the back side.