Topic: Ride report and ready for mods

[calj737]

I think 18/17 is gonna lose a lot of ground clearance...to much?  I dunno...I have seen some really angled off stator covers...not pretty.  Plus, it's gonna look funny.
[/quote]
Reducing the wheel diameters by 1” front and back doesn’t change the aesthetic of the bike. The ratio is the same. And I’ve seen tons of 500/550 bikes with modern 17” tires and not a single one had clearance issues or scraped cases from lean angles. You just can’t find public roads that support that type of speed while leaned that far over. Unless the scrapes you’ve seen come from low side offs.

No matter what he chooses, tires size choices will ultimately set the bike for “curb appeal” with little effect on clearance.

[WaxhawFive]

The pricing for the suspension stuff is pretty reasonable; Race Tech gold valves - $230, springs - $150, rear shocks (adj) - $475, so $855 total.  Before I order this front suspension, these 35mm legs look kinda skinny.  Plus, if I'm thinking about 750 brakes, does it make sense to swap to a different front end at this point?  I would like to retain the original look with the rubber gaiters, so is there a worthwhile upgrade with larger tubes, better brake, and the stock look?  Or should I ditch the gaiters and go with early CBR front end?  I definitely want to keep a spoked wheel!  I know, this is the slippery slope.

[calj737]

The pricing for the suspension stuff is pretty reasonable; Race Tech gold valves - $230, springs - $150, rear shocks (adj) - $475, so $855 total.  Before I order this front suspension, these 35mm legs look kinda skinny.  Plus, if I'm thinking about 750 brakes, does it make sense to swap to a different front end at this point?  I would like to retain the original look with the rubber gaiters, so is there a worthwhile upgrade with larger tubes, better brake, and the stock look?  Or should I ditch the gaiters and go with early CBR front end?  I definitely want to keep a spoked wheel!  I know, this is the slippery slope.

Slippery slope? Get some ice skates ready…

The GL forks are 39mm, not sure about their length. But they are stiffer than the stock forks. I don’t know if I’d worry too much if you do the internal upgrades. A fork brace might be sufficient to keep what you have and feel better about it. Larger forks deserve a stronger, stiffer triple tree. The early model CBR600 forks are conventional and better, but then you open a can of worms about hub spacing, brake caliper mounting, etc. How far do you want to go?

My opinion, the upgrades you are considering with the stock forks are probably plenty good enough to improve the ride and enjoy the begeezus out of your bike. And it’s not so much money that if you change the front end later you will lose because you can sell the stock front end on to another rider.

[Mark1976]

The pricing for the suspension stuff is pretty reasonable; Race Tech gold valves - $230, springs - $150, rear shocks (adj) - $475, so $855 total.  Before I order this front suspension, these 35mm legs look kinda skinny.  Plus, if I'm thinking about 750 brakes, does it make sense to swap to a different front end at this point?  I would like to retain the original look with the rubber gaiters, so is there a worthwhile upgrade with larger tubes, better brake, and the stock look?  Or should I ditch the gaiters and go with early CBR front end?  I definitely want to keep a spoked wheel!  I know, this is the slippery slope.

Slippery slope? Get some ice skates ready…

The GL forks are 39mm, not sure about their length. But they are stiffer than the stock forks. I don’t know if I’d worry too much if you do the internal upgrades. A fork brace might be sufficient to keep what you have and feel better about it. Larger forks deserve a stronger, stiffer triple tree. The early model CBR600 forks are conventional and better, but then you open a can of worms about hub spacing, brake caliper mounting, etc. How far do you want to go?

My opinion, the upgrades you are considering with the stock forks are probably plenty good enough to improve the ride and enjoy the begeezus out of your bike. And it’s not so much money that if you change the front end later you will lose because you can sell the stock front end on to another rider.

   Best advice I've heard in a long time, and in today's world the stock front with upgrades can return your investment and then some if you were to change your mind and sell it down the road.

[seanbarney41]

+2...if you want to do CBR things, get one!  There are tons of them used and they are cheap (although I am seeing the nice ones holding value very strongly) and great bikes...but there is something special about old bikes, and that something is easy to lose track of if you are not careful.   

[scottly]

these 35mm legs look kinda skinny.  Plus, if I'm thinking about 750 brakes, does it make sense to swap to a different front end at this point?

The 750s also had 35mm fork tubes, including the twin disc F2/F3. Even the DOHC six cylinder CBX had 35mm tubes. The F0/F1 and K7/K8 calipers look just like the 550 calipers, if you want to maintain a stock look.

[WaxhawFive]

OK, yeah, I want to keep it like it is, that's the charm.  So no modern front suspension.  I'll look into what's needed to fit the larger 750 rotor.  Has anyone used the Rising Sun aluminum rims being sold by 4into1?  They are suspiciously inexpensive.  I would consider a 100 front tire on a stock size 19x1.85 rim, and a 110 rear tire on a 18x2.15 rim.  Also, is it possible to add a fork brace and keep the stock gaiters and fender? 

[scottly]

  I'll look into what's needed to fit the larger 750 rotor.

The 750 rotor and late K/early F calipers bolt straight on to your 550 wheel and forks; you only need the parts.

[Mark1976]

OK, yeah, I want to keep it like it is, that's the charm.  So no modern front suspension.  I'll look into what's needed to fit the larger 750 rotor.  Has anyone used the Rising Sun aluminum rims being sold by 4into1?  They are suspiciously inexpensive.  I would consider a 100 front tire on a stock size 19x1.85 rim, and a 110 rear tire on a 18x2.15 rim.  Also, is it possible to add a fork brace and keep the stock gaiters and fender?

   I've used these rims on and off for the last 4 or so yrs. On and off because 4into1 is about useless when you have issues with the products they sell. I did a 18" front wheel late last year using a Rising Sun rim and it was an absolute piece of garbage, 4into1 was indifferent about whether it was really a quality issue, as a result they in my s$#t list.
   I've had 4 or 5 sets that were fine, given the fact that ya get what ya pay for, but yeah, compared to a pair from Buchanan's, they're immensely less expensive. But then again, I've never had a bad rim from Buchanan's, but my wallet was always significantly lighter.

[scottly]

Just a note about aluminum rims; even though aluminum is 1/3rd the weight of steel, it needs to be thicker to have the same strength, so the weight savings isn't that much, like maybe 1 pound per rim.

[seanbarney41]

There are at least a few kinds and styles of fork brace that have been available over the years.  I don't know of any available brand new retail for these bikes anymore so if you find one available take what you can get.  There were sheet metal ones that attach where the fender mounts attach and function similar to the front fender brace, just sturdier.  There were also tubular steel ones that attach to the fender mounts.  Both these style may complicate stock fender and brake caliper mounting but don't interfere with the boots at all.  The best ones lock into the groove in the top of the fork leg provided for the boots, but then most provide an alternative groove for the boot...actually never saw one that didn't. 

Search for a thread on this site by Frank/754 on how to make your own fork brace that looks cool and functional but can be made using simple fab skills and materials.