Author Topic: 1976 honda cb750f supersport air screw  (Read 640 times)

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Offline cado007

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1976 honda cb750f supersport air screw
« on: September 14, 2024, 08:58:34 AM »
I have a 1976 Honda CB750 f supersport.  factory 4 into 1 muffler factory airbox - factory carb settings and original brass on 064a carbs that have just been rebuilt. It is running rich and fouling plugs at 1 turn out on air screw - am I correct that turning it out more (CCW) leans it out more. Anyone have one of these and know what they set their air screws too. It's runs like a beast but but I have to get this sorted out.
Thanks,
Damon

Online denward17

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Re: 1976 honda cb750f supersport air screw
« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2024, 09:05:25 AM »
I am pretty sure turning it CCW will lean it out.

It did on my '76 550K with 087A carbs.

Offline cado007

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Re: 1976 honda cb750f supersport air screw
« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2024, 09:07:37 AM »
thanks!

Offline HondaMan

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Re: 1976 honda cb750f supersport air screw
« Reply #3 on: September 17, 2024, 08:08:54 PM »
On all of the SOHC4 carbs, turning the idle-mix screw outward richens them. It lets in more air-fuel MIXTURE, not more AIR.
The MIXTURE is set by the jet size, and then the AMOUNT of that mixture is permitted by how far out the screw is set.
In essence, think of it this way: the idle jet is like a straw with a couple of small holes in it (near the top) in a half-glass of water - when you suck in a mouthful slowly you get mostly air as it doesn't pull up as much volume for each 'suck'. As you suck faster the liquid rises quicker because the air inlet size is limited by the holes, so you get more volume from a 'faster' suck pulse. BUT - it is always a pulsing 'suck' stroke, because it is not a constant vacuum: just once per engine intake cycle.
 ;)
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

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Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
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Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

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Offline jonda500

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Re: 1976 honda cb750f supersport air screw
« Reply #4 on: September 17, 2024, 09:49:37 PM »
In my experience, turning the air screws INWARDS richens the mixture.
John
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Offline cado007

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Re: 1976 honda cb750f supersport air screw
« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2024, 05:50:50 AM »
Thanks Hondaman! I am 1/2 way thru your book. Must have been so much fun touring in the 70s.  Also great tip with getting rid of that engine flange while removing engine. Well I am a little confused. I have 2 motorcycles now . The 1976 honda cb750f ( i just got 2 months ago) and 1978 honda cb550k ( got about 6 months ago) I thought the pd46c carbs were different than earlier ones. Anyway for the the 750f - it runs rich 2.25 turns out to 3/4 in. I was going to move needle to 2nd clip to lean out. Annoyingly it runs and idles perfect even with the rich plugs but I dont want to introduce carbon into engine or eventually i guess foul plugs so that was my plan.  For the 1978 Honda cb550k it also runs strong. It however i never could bet to idle under 1500 rpms. I have removed the carbs a lot and cleaned a lot deracked etc. Last time it had to do with the choke. The flaps were not totally opening horizontally when the choke was off. Previously I would pull choke it would start right up close choke in 20 seconds drive off. Now for it to start I have to turn idle screw up or it wont start. Well at least I am learning- thanks for the response! Damon

Offline HondaMan

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Re: 1976 honda cb750f supersport air screw
« Reply #6 on: September 19, 2024, 08:35:39 PM »
Well, you're "right up against it" with those PD46c series carbs: they are touchy bas#$@ds to set right enough to run with the 550 and modern fuels. This has long been the reason the 1978 550 bikes are often found with low miles, mysteriously parked: I still remember when we had both MTBE and ethanol in the fuels here at the same time: there was a guy with a nice '78 near here who got so tired of tinkering with his carbs that he drained the tank and put a For Sale sign on the bike in his front yard. The empty tank was so that a prospective buyer couldn't try to start it up, because it would just rev high when cold, then die when warmed up.

One thing you might try with the 550 (it works very well with the 750K models) is to add some oil to the gas. I use about 2 ounces of oil at every fillup: it helps neutralize the problems caused by the gas itself, letting you troubleshoot things in a more sane way.

For the too-rich 750F: there's several things that cause this issue. In order that I see most often around here are:
1. The spark advancer is advancing too soon. This makes it spit back toward the carbs (this is also big on the 550) and causes the airspeed thru the carbs to run slower than the engine ingests air, and since the carbs all run richer-per-air-volume as the air slows down, the result is a rich, dark mix in the chamber - and fouled sparkplugs, by the box. To fix this: start by removing at least 1/2 turn from both springs on the spark advancer to slow it back down: its springs are now heat-softened and let the weights advance too soon. Try for full advance at 3000 RPM, not the original 2200 RPM in the manuals: this matches today's fuel burn rates better.
2. Make sure the rubber hoses between carbs and head are still supple. If not, they are very, very difficult to make seal. When they leak vacuum, this creates the very same scenario described above, resulting in rich, dark sparkplugs. In th e750 this is caused by hard hoses and/or stretched-out band clamps on those hoses: in the 550 it is caused more often by the O-rings in those cast intake manifolds where they contact the head: they are old and hard, now, and leak vacuum. They are the same size O-rings as in the valve caps (30.8x3.2mm).
3. Over-advanced (at idle) spark timing. In the 750 this is more often seen with the Dyna electronic units (just before they die) when their 'trigger pickups' are starting to give up: they will show, under a timing light, that they are firing too late until about 1500 RPM, then they jump forward to 50% of the actual advance, then follow the advancer above 2000 RPM to whatever angle it is making at the time.

Also; don't use premium gas, especially if you're getting dark plugs. Our Regular grade gas now burns slow as (or slower than) the Premium grades of the 1970s, so this messes with the engine's low-speed response in a dozen ways. Adding a bit of oil to the gas also helps tame this burn-rate problem.
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com