Author Topic: Mach III 500  (Read 4441 times)

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Offline grcamna2

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Re: Mach III 500
« Reply #50 on: April 23, 2025, 08:25:38 PM »
  We got together on the Mach III project and swapped out the clutch, it appeared to operate but did stick when we tried to roll it with the clutch pulled. The inside three plates were sticking and left material on the steels when we popped them apart. I was surprised by the little wire spacers under the friction plates. They all tucked back into place with ease. I think he's unsure of the timing and wanted to stop when the clutch was in. He also had grandkids to pick up.
  Doug showed us the Hot Rod shop, he has his dads old 40 ford street rod, his stocker V8 flathead 40 ford and street rod 34 ford.
  They have a few dirt bikes and the Mach III.  Doug restored a 5 selection candy machine and a visible gas pump. We didn't get into the toy building where all of the collectable stuff is. We have an excuse for another visit.

Good for you Don !
You Did get a chance to work on that Mach III rippin' lil' two stroke triple.
I hope you get a ride on it eventually.
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Offline Don R

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Re: Mach III 500
« Reply #51 on: April 23, 2025, 10:58:03 PM »
 At one time his Mom and Dad and another couple in our street rod club owned at least one of every model of 1940 ford that was made including trucks.
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Offline Don R

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Re: Mach III 500
« Reply #52 on: April 24, 2025, 10:20:17 PM »
Here it is from just a few weeks ago, on it's last run out of the year (so far anyway). It's a nice bike and goes well, lovely engine to ride and pretty decent handling for what it is. #$%*e brakes though.
Doug's bike looks just like this one.  Thanks for posting the pic. I see it didn't come along with the quote, Reply #35
« Last Edit: April 24, 2025, 10:22:13 PM by Don R »
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Offline Don R

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Re: Mach III 500
« Reply #53 on: April 25, 2025, 04:52:32 PM »
 Doug called, the kawi got itself out of time when he bumped the motor while trying to check the sticky clutch. I told him to find TDC on the proper cylinder, (right?) remove the distributor drive and slide the drive back on while aligning the rotor timing mark on the case.
 It's like dropping a distributor into a car engine. I think.
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Offline Don R

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Re: Mach III 500
« Reply #54 on: April 28, 2025, 06:57:35 PM »
 The Kawi is running good, the clutch is a little draggy, he was going to adjust it a little more but thinks all is good to ride. He didn't say if he checked his drivers license for the M, he thinks he should still have it.
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Offline HondaMan

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Re: Mach III 500
« Reply #55 on: April 28, 2025, 07:31:20 PM »
Hey Mark, I'd be up to giving it a try. Yes there is/was someone doing it- a guy Jim remade them and sold them as Lakeland Ignitions, he then gave up a couple of years ago and Ricks Motorsport took it on & put the price up. They all use a different casing rather than the 2 originals though, which some people don't like.  I still quite like the HEI unit idea, I found a couple of old links to that on Facebook if you're on there.

According to these schematics and some others I found for the early rocketbike, it is a clugey CDI that pumps a capacitor up with 400v that is manufactured by a couple of power transistors oscillating a push-pull circuit, then an SCR fires the capacitor into a pulse-style coil upon the magnet triggers' command.

It is very much like the ones found miniaturized (to run at 20 volts instead of 400 volts) in the CB650, 1979 style. (!) Those later ones, in various versions, appeared in many 1980s-2000s era bikes. They are about as big as your thumb. Their largest Achilles Heel is that they need really clean electrical power to operate right, so the bikes get brushed alternators in order to make lots of quiet power - and then, you have to replace those brushes. which I find offensive to a reliable motorcycle...

In that era (1969) the transistors we had that could do this sort of pumping and oscillating at the same time were few, far between, and quite expensive: today it would be like building units costing several hundreds of $$ just in parts (which might explain why the aftermarket ones cost so much?). It's kind of reassuring to discover that what I thought about them was correct: they were just far enough ahead of their time to not be a mass-produce-able gizmo in those days. The transistors were running at max all the time, and when they got hot and the high voltage drooped a little bit from it, the SCR wouldn't shut off after firing, which would make one of the 2 power transistors effectively shorted straight to ground. This would then overheat it and short it out in a few seconds. In addition, the power transistors were likely each characterized from hundreds (or thousands) of similar parts, picking only the cream of the crop to build those units, and the rest were sold for other purposes (a very common practice in Japanese electronics of those days).

So, what to do?

First I think I'll start looking about for some better, modern transistors for the oscillator: if they could withstand shorting for a few seconds then a 'safety circuit' could be added that would just it down and signal "Overheated". But better yet, if the oscillator can be built robustly enough without a heavy transformer the high voltage (400 volts) supply could just pump all 3 triggers (like the original?) and each one that fires could be used to force off the previous one so no multi-firing (and resultant heating) could occur. This would make it a constant-current device, too.

How much power does the Blue Streak's alternator make? I can find the spec for the later versions (the points-fired ones) but not for the early Mach III. That will set the current limitations for the design.
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