Topic: OK, my compressor leaks, now what?

[Kelly E]

Congrats….. I bet it lasts forever (says the guy who has his compressor outside the shop). This got me thinking about the air pig we take to the race track. I probably bought it when I was 18 years old….. Mmmm. +40 years old. What could possibly go wrong?

I only fill my ol' air pig to about 85psi so it doesn't blow up in my face. Maybe I should get a new one but will it be as good?

[HondaMan]

Mark how's the weather forecast looking, any good days to paint?

It has the typical disintegrated left-side cover, so it needed new covers anyway. Something about the left-side covers on CB750 and CB550...maybe their designer was right-handed? Dunno.

I always thought the left cover got damaged 'cause it was taken off to access the electrics [at least on the 750's], oil tank side didnt need to be removed.

I believe I have a set of new Franken 550 covers on the shelf that I could donate to the cause, if needed?

That may be the cause on the 750? On the 500/550 the battery is on the right side, so I [long ago] always suspected the right covers would die first, with the battery being the weak link in this bike.

I'm thinking I will dig around and find the regulator adjuster this weekend and lower the max pressure a bit, just 'cuz. I made [machines that made] bombs for decades, don't think I wanna do that any more?

It normally pumps up to 150 PSI, but the sprayers only need about 15-20. I may just go to 80, since that's still higher than my old motorhome tires that hold 65.

[grcamna2]

Mark how's the weather forecast looking, any good days to paint?

It has the typical disintegrated left-side cover, so it needed new covers anyway. Something about the left-side covers on CB750 and CB550...maybe their designer was right-handed? Dunno.

I always thought the left cover got damaged 'cause it was taken off to access the electrics [at least on the 750's], oil tank side didnt need to be removed.

I believe I have a set of new Franken 550 covers on the shelf that I could donate to the cause, if needed?

That may be the cause on the 750? On the 500/550 the battery is on the right side, so I [long ago] always suspected the right covers would die first, with the battery being the weak link in this bike.

I'm thinking I will dig around and find the regulator adjuster this weekend and lower the max pressure a bit, just 'cuz. I made [machines that made] bombs for decades, don't think I wanna do that any more?

It normally pumps up to 150 PSI, but the sprayers only need about 15-20. I may just go to 80, since that's still higher than my old motorhome tires that hold 65.

Does your machine run constant speed control w/ a regulator adjustment ?
I like your idea of setting the pressure switch? to shut-down at 80. 

[HondaMan]

Mark how's the weather forecast looking, any good days to paint?

It has the typical disintegrated left-side cover, so it needed new covers anyway. Something about the left-side covers on CB750 and CB550...maybe their designer was right-handed? Dunno.

I always thought the left cover got damaged 'cause it was taken off to access the electrics [at least on the 750's], oil tank side didnt need to be removed.

I believe I have a set of new Franken 550 covers on the shelf that I could donate to the cause, if needed?

That may be the cause on the 750? On the 500/550 the battery is on the right side, so I [long ago] always suspected the right covers would die first, with the battery being the weak link in this bike.

I'm thinking I will dig around and find the regulator adjuster this weekend and lower the max pressure a bit, just 'cuz. I made [machines that made] bombs for decades, don't think I wanna do that any more?

It normally pumps up to 150 PSI, but the sprayers only need about 15-20. I may just go to 80, since that's still higher than my old motorhome tires that hold 65.

Does your machine run constant speed control w/ a regulator adjustment ?
I like your idea of setting the pressure switch? to shut-down at 80. 

It's a run-stop type pump, a diaphragm style. It 'buzzes' more than making motor racket, but the noise interestingly doesn't penetrate into the house - or outside the garage. I suspect that was why they were popular: I have seen a LOT of them, on differing tank sizes.

[grcamna2]

Mark how's the weather forecast looking, any good days to paint?

It has the typical disintegrated left-side cover, so it needed new covers anyway. Something about the left-side covers on CB750 and CB550...maybe their designer was right-handed? Dunno.

I always thought the left cover got damaged 'cause it was taken off to access the electrics [at least on the 750's], oil tank side didnt need to be removed.

I believe I have a set of new Franken 550 covers on the shelf that I could donate to the cause, if needed?

That may be the cause on the 750? On the 500/550 the battery is on the right side, so I [long ago] always suspected the right covers would die first, with the battery being the weak link in this bike.

I'm thinking I will dig around and find the regulator adjuster this weekend and lower the max pressure a bit, just 'cuz. I made [machines that made] bombs for decades, don't think I wanna do that any more?

It normally pumps up to 150 PSI, but the sprayers only need about 15-20. I may just go to 80, since that's still higher than my old motorhome tires that hold 65.

Does your machine run constant speed control w/ a regulator adjustment ?
I like your idea of setting the pressure switch? to shut-down at 80. 

It's a run-stop type pump, a diaphragm style. It 'buzzes' more than making motor racket, but the noise interestingly doesn't penetrate into the house - or outside the garage. I suspect that was why they were popular: I have seen a LOT of them, on differing tank sizes.

A large rubber diaphragm/piston style air compressor pump ?

[HondaMan]

Mark how's the weather forecast looking, any good days to paint?

It has the typical disintegrated left-side cover, so it needed new covers anyway. Something about the left-side covers on CB750 and CB550...maybe their designer was right-handed? Dunno.

I always thought the left cover got damaged 'cause it was taken off to access the electrics [at least on the 750's], oil tank side didnt need to be removed.

I believe I have a set of new Franken 550 covers on the shelf that I could donate to the cause, if needed?

That may be the cause on the 750? On the 500/550 the battery is on the right side, so I [long ago] always suspected the right covers would die first, with the battery being the weak link in this bike.

I'm thinking I will dig around and find the regulator adjuster this weekend and lower the max pressure a bit, just 'cuz. I made [machines that made] bombs for decades, don't think I wanna do that any more?

It normally pumps up to 150 PSI, but the sprayers only need about 15-20. I may just go to 80, since that's still higher than my old motorhome tires that hold 65.

Does your machine run constant speed control w/ a regulator adjustment ?
I like your idea of setting the pressure switch? to shut-down at 80. 

It's a run-stop type pump, a diaphragm style. It 'buzzes' more than making motor racket, but the noise interestingly doesn't penetrate into the house - or outside the garage. I suspect that was why they were popular: I have seen a LOT of them, on differing tank sizes.

A large rubber diaphragm/piston style air compressor pump ?

I think it's a diaphragm: there is no motor.

[grcamna2]

Mark how's the weather forecast looking, any good days to paint?

It has the typical disintegrated left-side cover, so it needed new covers anyway. Something about the left-side covers on CB750 and CB550...maybe their designer was right-handed? Dunno.

I always thought the left cover got damaged 'cause it was taken off to access the electrics [at least on the 750's], oil tank side didnt need to be removed.

I believe I have a set of new Franken 550 covers on the shelf that I could donate to the cause, if needed?

That may be the cause on the 750? On the 500/550 the battery is on the right side, so I [long ago] always suspected the right covers would die first, with the battery being the weak link in this bike.

I'm thinking I will dig around and find the regulator adjuster this weekend and lower the max pressure a bit, just 'cuz. I made [machines that made] bombs for decades, don't think I wanna do that any more?

It normally pumps up to 150 PSI, but the sprayers only need about 15-20. I may just go to 80, since that's still higher than my old motorhome tires that hold 65.

Does your machine run constant speed control w/ a regulator adjustment ?
I like your idea of setting the pressure switch? to shut-down at 80. 

It's a run-stop type pump, a diaphragm style. It 'buzzes' more than making motor racket, but the noise interestingly doesn't penetrate into the house - or outside the garage. I suspect that was why they were popular: I have seen a LOT of them, on differing tank sizes.

A large rubber diaphragm/piston style air compressor pump ?

I think it's a diaphragm: there is no motor.

I understand.
Those are built to a very low price point;no wonder that it rusted-out soon as I wouldn't be surprised if the tank's probably made with 1/16" China steel. 

[Don R]

 I don't think there is a cert for welding cracks in a pressure vessel. That said I welded a lot of things with no papers.

[BenelliSEI]

Congrats….. I bet it lasts forever (says the guy who has his compressor outside the shop). This got me thinking about the air pig we take to the race track. I probably bought it when I was 18 years old….. Mmmm. +40 years old. What could possibly go wrong?

I only fill my ol' air pig to about 85psi so it doesn't blow up in my face. Maybe I should get a new one but will it be as good?

I agree….. I drain mine regularly (upside down to blow out any moisture) and max 90psi. It is made of heavy steel (“Made in Canada” no less). Twice the weight of any new ones. I’ll risk it.

[willbird]

Congrats….. I bet it lasts forever (says the guy who has his compressor outside the shop). This got me thinking about the air pig we take to the race track. I probably bought it when I was 18 years old….. Mmmm. +40 years old. What could possibly go wrong?

I only fill my ol' air pig to about 85psi so it doesn't blow up in my face. Maybe I should get a new one but will it be as good?

I agree….. I drain mine regularly (upside down to blow out any moisture) and max 90psi. It is made of heavy steel (“Made in Canada” no less). Twice the weight of any new ones. I’ll risk it.

Like anything else, SOHC Honda MC for example there are devotees to air compressors and air tanks. Some them advocate for letting condensate build up to some level and then draining it so that there is no one exact place that the water/air level is all the time which would focus rust on that exact spot. I have a vertical and the drain is in the bottom, I have a ball valve on it to drain but have been meaning to stand it up on some sturdy legs enough to thread a galvanized nipple into the bottom that would act as a reservoir so no water ever sat in the tank itself.

[grcamna2]

Fluid Film is a very useful product,especially in this application;would require a tank to have the large inspection 'bungs' to view the inside,then spray it inside and allow it to set-up and fully dry.

[HondaMan]

Congrats….. I bet it lasts forever (says the guy who has his compressor outside the shop). This got me thinking about the air pig we take to the race track. I probably bought it when I was 18 years old….. Mmmm. +40 years old. What could possibly go wrong?

I only fill my ol' air pig to about 85psi so it doesn't blow up in my face. Maybe I should get a new one but will it be as good?

I agree….. I drain mine regularly (upside down to blow out any moisture) and max 90psi. It is made of heavy steel (“Made in Canada” no less). Twice the weight of any new ones. I’ll risk it.

Like anything else, SOHC Honda MC for example there are devotees to air compressors and air tanks. Some them advocate for letting condensate build up to some level and then draining it so that there is no one exact place that the water/air level is all the time which would focus rust on that exact spot. I have a vertical and the drain is in the bottom, I have a ball valve on it to drain but have been meaning to stand it up on some sturdy legs enough to thread a galvanized nipple into the bottom that would act as a reservoir so no water ever sat in the tank itself.

That's a clever idea: I may try something like that on mine. It never gets much water inside, as I live in a desert-like area, seldom have much humidity.

[willbird]

Congrats….. I bet it lasts forever (says the guy who has his compressor outside the shop). This got me thinking about the air pig we take to the race track. I probably bought it when I was 18 years old….. Mmmm. +40 years old. What could possibly go wrong?

I only fill my ol' air pig to about 85psi so it doesn't blow up in my face. Maybe I should get a new one but will it be as good?

I agree….. I drain mine regularly (upside down to blow out any moisture) and max 90psi. It is made of heavy steel (“Made in Canada” no less). Twice the weight of any new ones. I’ll risk it.

Like anything else, SOHC Honda MC for example there are devotees to air compressors and air tanks. Some them advocate for letting condensate build up to some level and then draining it so that there is no one exact place that the water/air level is all the time which would focus rust on that exact spot. I have a vertical and the drain is in the bottom, I have a ball valve on it to drain but have been meaning to stand it up on some sturdy legs enough to thread a galvanized nipple into the bottom that would act as a reservoir so no water ever sat in the tank itself.

That's a clever idea: I may try something like that on mine. It never gets much water inside, as I live in a desert-like area, seldom have much humidity.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/air-compressors/masterforce-reg-belt-drive-60-gallon-155-psi-stationary-electric-vertical-air-compressor/mela3706011/p-1642874283794367-c-12910.htm?exp=false

This is the one I ended up with, that NPT bung in the bottom looks pretty big, a pipe nipple would hold a decent amount of water.

[dave500]

fit a truck style water dump valve you can pull with a wire so you dont need to reach under the thing,those screw ones can be a pain to reach.

[grcamna2]

Congrats….. I bet it lasts forever (says the guy who has his compressor outside the shop). This got me thinking about the air pig we take to the race track. I probably bought it when I was 18 years old….. Mmmm. +40 years old. What could possibly go wrong?

I only fill my ol' air pig to about 85psi so it doesn't blow up in my face. Maybe I should get a new one but will it be as good?

I agree….. I drain mine regularly (upside down to blow out any moisture) and max 90psi. It is made of heavy steel (“Made in Canada” no less). Twice the weight of any new ones. I’ll risk it.

Like anything else, SOHC Honda MC for example there are devotees to air compressors and air tanks. Some them advocate for letting condensate build up to some level and then draining it so that there is no one exact place that the water/air level is all the time which would focus rust on that exact spot. I have a vertical and the drain is in the bottom, I have a ball valve on it to drain but have been meaning to stand it up on some sturdy legs enough to thread a galvanized nipple into the bottom that would act as a reservoir so no water ever sat in the tank itself.

That's a clever idea: I may try something like that on mine. It never gets much water inside, as I live in a desert-like area, seldom have much humidity.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/air-compressors/masterforce-reg-belt-drive-60-gallon-155-psi-stationary-electric-vertical-air-compressor/mela3706011/p-1642874283794367-c-12910.htm?exp=false

This is the one I ended up with, that NPT bung in the bottom looks pretty big, a pipe nipple would hold a decent amount of water.

 

[willbird]

fit a truck style water dump valve you can pull with a wire so you dont need to reach under the thing,those screw ones can be a pain to reach.

There is a  popular valve brand name "ASCO" that would work for that purpose, I always called them "A**hole valves" LOL. The only pain with them is knowing what voltage coil they have when you need to replace a failed one, they all look alike and come with at least 24VDC, 120VAC and 240VCAC coils.

[HondaMan]

fit a truck style water dump valve you can pull with a wire so you dont need to reach under the thing,those screw ones can be a pain to reach.

There is a  popular valve brand name "ASCO" that would work for that purpose, I always called them "A**hole valves" LOL. The only pain with them is knowing what voltage coil they have when you need to replace a failed one, they all look alike and come with at least 24VDC, 120VAC and 240VCAC coils.

Dang...I think I have one of those somewhere from a medical machine I helped build circa 1998 or so. I forgot all about that, gotta go look around now...

[newday777]

fit a truck style water dump valve you can pull with a wire so you dont need to reach under the thing,those screw ones can be a pain to reach.

There is a  popular valve brand name "ASCO" that would work for that purpose, I always called them "A**hole valves" LOL. The only pain with them is knowing what voltage coil they have when you need to replace a failed one, they all look alike and come with at least 24VDC, 120VAC and 240VCAC coils.

Something like these? That would certainly help not to have to get down to drain the tanks!

[willbird]

fit a truck style water dump valve you can pull with a wire so you dont need to reach under the thing,those screw ones can be a pain to reach.

There is a  popular valve brand name "ASCO" that would work for that purpose, I always called them "A**hole valves" LOL. The only pain with them is knowing what voltage coil they have when you need to replace a failed one, they all look alike and come with at least 24VDC, 120VAC and 240VCAC coils.

Something like these? That would certainly help not to have to get down to drain the tanks!

Those are the ones we use at work.

Bill

[HondaMan]

fit a truck style water dump valve you can pull with a wire so you dont need to reach under the thing,those screw ones can be a pain to reach.

There is a  popular valve brand name "ASCO" that would work for that purpose, I always called them "A**hole valves" LOL. The only pain with them is knowing what voltage coil they have when you need to replace a failed one, they all look alike and come with at least 24VDC, 120VAC and 240VCAC coils.

Something like these? That would certainly help not to have to get down to drain the tanks!

Yep, the one I have [somewhere?] looks like those, in green paint with a big red button on it. At the moment I don't remember what I/we bought it for, but the machine ended up without it in the end, and came home in the box of leftover parts after we installed the machine.

Boy, that was a long time ago: my old partner is long-gone and his company is closed!

[newday777]

fit a truck style water dump valve you can pull with a wire so you dont need to reach under the thing,those screw ones can be a pain to reach.

There is a  popular valve brand name "ASCO" that would work for that purpose, I always called them "A**hole valves" LOL. The only pain with them is knowing what voltage coil they have when you need to replace a failed one, they all look alike and come with at least 24VDC, 120VAC and 240VCAC coils.

Something like these? That would certainly help not to have to get down to drain the tanks!

Yep, the one I have [somewhere?] looks like those, in green paint with a big red button on it. At the moment I don't remember what I/we bought it for, but the machine ended up without it in the end, and came home in the box of leftover parts after we installed the machine.

Boy, that was a long time ago: my old partner is long-gone and his company is closed!

I hope you find it!

[willbird]

fit a truck style water dump valve you can pull with a wire so you dont need to reach under the thing,those screw ones can be a pain to reach.

There is a  popular valve brand name "ASCO" that would work for that purpose, I always called them "A**hole valves" LOL. The only pain with them is knowing what voltage coil they have when you need to replace a failed one, they all look alike and come with at least 24VDC, 120VAC and 240VCAC coils.

Something like these? That would certainly help not to have to get down to drain the tanks!

Yep, the one I have [somewhere?] looks like those, in green paint with a big red button on it. At the moment I don't remember what I/we bought it for, but the machine ended up without it in the end, and came home in the box of leftover parts after we installed the machine.

Boy, that was a long time ago: my old partner is long-gone and his company is closed!

The "red button" just holds the solenoid coil on.

Bill