Topic: Resolved Red's issue - finally

[70CB750]

Red was giving me trouble.  It had less power in low rpms, it idled well.  It had hiccups in high rev.

I had carbs out like 4 times cleaning and checking fuel level.  I replaced coils with a different set, replaced spark plugs.

It felt like the signal from the ignition shortens out.  I pulled the ignition with cable and the advancer.  The Pamco rotor is aluminum and it was rusted solid with the advancer. Taking it apart I killed the advancer,  found another one and she started right  up

Gotta say it had me puzzled for a long time. 

[BenelliSEI]

Nice find! Well done.

[Ozzybud]

I have found in my experience that most carburetor problems are electrical in nature! 

[calj737]

The Pamco rotor is aluminum and it was rusted solid with the advancer.

You know aluminum doesn’t rust  But it will corrode to other metals due to galvanic corrosion. This is exacerbated due to electrical current passing through the parts. I’d consider a light coating of dielectric grease on the outside of the rotor to help prevent this in the future. Or maybe have it anodized to help isolate the corrosion.

[Stev-o]

Gotta say it had me puzzled for a long time. 

It's been my experience that once the issue is found, it tends to make a lot more sense of why the bike [or vehicle] had the issue!

[70CB750]

Gotta say it had me puzzled for a long time. 

It's been my experience that once the issue is found, it tends to make a lot more sense of why the bike [or vehicle] had the issue!

Same experience 

[rotortiller]

I’d consider a light coating of dielectric grease on the outside of the rotor to help prevent this in the future.

That's what  I did with the inside of the aluminum advance rotor on my Tytronics ignition. Was worried about the heat and thought anti-seize but dielectric grease did the trick. The rotor freedom does get checked once in a while because the advance unit is the only moving part of the ignition system.

I set it up so there is no need to adjust the timing when the ignition is removed and installed from the engine for advance unit service. This was done by rotating the timing plate to the end of its travel on the 3 mounting screws and then adjusting the individual pickups for correct timing.

[70CB750]

I’d consider a light coating of dielectric grease on the outside of the rotor to help prevent this in the future.

That's what  I did with the inside of the aluminum advance rotor on my Tytronics ignition. Was worried about the heat and thought anti-seize but dielectric grease did the trick. The rotor freedom does get checked once in a while because the advance unit is the only moving part of the ignition system.

I set it up so there is no need to adjust the timing when the ignition is removed and installed from the engine for advance unit service. This was done by rotating the timing plate to the end of its travel on the 3 mounting screws and then adjusting the individual pickups for correct timing.

For timing I used a scriber and made a line from the ignition plate to the engine counterpart. 

[MauiK3]

Good find!

[rotortiller]

For timing I used a scriber and made a line from the ignition plate to the engine counterpart.

When I lost my near sight as an old tuck, flipping the old 't' and feel is all I have left in me lol!