Topic: Resto for cb750k8

[Kelly E]

We can install a motor in 10 minutes by laying it on its side. It's really easy to do with one buddy to help. We've done it several times with 3 different brands of bike and I don't have to build another gadget to store.

That's 10 minutes from the motor on the floor to bolted in the frame up on the lift table on the center stand.

[BenelliSEI]

If your frame is completely bar do what Kelly suggests. By far the easiest method! After you get it “upright” install the brake pedal, pivot shaft and spring BEFORE the rear swing arm……

[letmwhirl]

Kelly and BennelliSEI, thanks to both. Your input is especially appreciated and respected.

I am an old fart. And you can imagine how stubborn old farts can be. I was on Jan 5th 74 yrs young. My back is sensitive, I am a little over weight but I love this hobby and these classic 4 cyl bikes. It really would be best to use a method as Kelly described with having no additional equipment hanging on the walls. Less time involved and less stress. But some of the anal old farts, me, like to struggle and overbuild. In my retirement, I probably spend more time with research, planning and thinking about how I can best get it done alone, than actually just doing it.

I just hope that I don‘t have to pull this motor again because of leaks or something that went wrong. But if something goes not as planned (oil leak or something worse), I will have experienced this method and will have a stand waiting in the near term, that will likely only take one person to install. I will see how it goes today. But I can imagine that this method could be done by just one person. I already have the motor on the stand. The traveling hoist which will carry the frame was added in my garage over 4 years now, it has helped me remove a 94 6cyl Jeep motor, and install the rebuilt unit.

Yesterday, I spent the day in and out of the garage, digging through the bolts and getting them ready for today. As it turns out, my wife is very ill with a chest cold, coughing all night. So this morning I am in nursing mode with breakfast, house work, etc..

Today, my friend Mike from the Gevenich Jeep Club is coming at 2PM to help with the Motor install. I will post detailed results of the install with photos later. Fingers crossed that all goes well.

Here is a photo back in Nov of 22 during a short jeep trip. And another of my 93 XJ900F which needs a seat build and it is ready for a major inspection before again disassembly and refinishing.

[letmwhirl]

If your frame is completely bar do what Kelly suggests. By far the easiest method! After you get it “upright” install the brake pedal, pivot shaft and spring BEFORE the rear swing arm……

Great tip BenelliSEI, just what I need at the moment. This is the type of info that first time guys need before reassembly. The pivot shaft on this bike was bent slightly and was a little difficult to drive out, it is still reusable but I would like to find one not bent. If anyone in the states has it on a shelf that fits a 78 model, pls let me know. I will be visiting my daughter in Houston in March.

More information regarding what should be done is order and before other things is certainly valuable information.

[newday777]

If your frame is completely bar do what Kelly suggests. By far the easiest method! After you get it “upright” install the brake pedal, pivot shaft and spring BEFORE the rear swing arm……

Great tip BenelliSEI, just what I need at the moment. This is the type of info that first time guys need before reassembly. The pivot shaft on this bike was bent slightly and was a little difficult to drive out, it is still reusable but I would like to find one not bent. If anyone in the states has it on a shelf that fits a 78 model, pls let me know. I will be visiting my daughter in Houston in March.

More information regarding what should be done is order and before other things is certainly valuable information.

The other thing to look at with the pedal shaft as it was hard to get out, is corrosion in the shaft hole, very common. Make a round tube of fine sand paper to sand the hole surfaces of any rust and then grease it. The same with the shaft surfaces, so it doesn't get rusted again. I've had that problem on a 83 goldwing.
I'll still be looking for the pedal shaft and hopefully find it before you get back to the states.

[letmwhirl]

If your frame is completely bar do what Kelly suggests. By far the easiest method! After you get it “upright” install the brake pedal, pivot shaft and spring BEFORE the rear swing arm……

Great tip BenelliSEI, just what I need at the moment. This is the type of info that first time guys need before reassembly. The pivot shaft on this bike was bent slightly and was a little difficult to drive out, it is still reusable but I would like to find one not bent. If anyone in the states has it on a shelf that fits a 78 model, pls let me know. I will be visiting my daughter in Houston in March.

More information regarding what should be done is order and before other things is certainly valuable information.

The other thing to look at with the pedal shaft as it was hard to get out, is corrosion in the shaft hole, very common. Make a round tube of fine sand paper to sand the hole surfaces of any rust and then grease it. The same with the shaft surfaces, so it doesn't get rusted again. I've had that problem on a 83 goldwing.
I'll still be looking for the pedal shaft and hopefully find it before you get back to the states.

In this case it is not corrosion. This bike was in an accident, on it‘s side. I can only imagine after seeing the engine guards, the engine head fins and different handle bars.. it‘s highly likely that it was on it‘s side driving into one of Germany‘s curvy incline or decline. The brake pedal shaft is actually bent. I can reuse it but would rather locate a replacement. 

[BenelliSEI]

I may have one. On a short vacation, will check when I get home.

[letmwhirl]

Today, I have been in nurse mode. Wife is really ill and on sofa all day. Having the appointment at 2PM with Mike for the installation, I hoped it would not take long to complete. I went down a 1pm and moved the cars out then moved the bench under the hoist. Then set the frame on the bench. added some padding to the frame rails. Mike showed up and we actually got started at 1:53PM. We were installing the first frame bolt at 2:01pm. That‘s 8 minutes.

Most of the time was spent looking for longer bolts for the two upper front frame mounts. So, would I recommend this method… Certainly and especially for someone wanting or needing to do this by themselves. Mike was invaluable, as always a great help. But building and using the stand, a single person can accomplish this alone.

One thing to note is that the top of the frame needed to be fed over the motor just a little ahead of the bottom. We tried feeding the frame straight onto the motor as it hung from the hoist, but the oil pan would not allow it. So, without tilting the top sideways toward the motor, while moving the hoist and frame and getting it 90% there, then pulling the bottom in place, it would not have gone so quick.

That‘s it for the motor install. I could not spend more time today on it. This phase of the project is complete, except for fastening the bolts. Here are a couple photos of Mike and I during the install. That‘s me with the ball cap.

[letmwhirl]

I may have one. On a short vacation, will check when I get home.

Awesome,,, let me know as soon as you can. I can pm you the Houston address for shipping and pay you via PayPal.

[denward17]

That's great!  Got to love it when a plan comes together.

[BenelliSEI]

I may have one. On a short vacation, will check when I get home.

Awesome,,, let me know as soon as you can. I can pm you the Houston address for shipping and pay you via PayPal.

I’m sorry to report I dug through all my stuff and don’t have one…… apologies.

[letmwhirl]

I may have one. On a short vacation, will check when I get home.

Awesome,,, let me know as soon as you can. I can pm you the Houston address for shipping and pay you via PayPal.

I’m sorry to report I dug through all my stuff and don’t have one…… apologies.

Thank you for looking and taking the time… no apology required.. we are all doing our best to help one another.

[letmwhirl]

A couple of things to mention..
1) has anyone had problems getting the #2 carb bowl seal to fit the bowl. I tried a seal which fit two of the other bowls.. and still had a the problem.. too small. So I ended up using some gasket sealer in a few areas to hold the seal in place.

2) I made no videos while disassembling the carbs, which I am finding out now would have been wise. I have all 4 carbs built and am trying to assemble #2 with #3 first.. pain in the hiney. I found the videos from Peter Anderson, nice fella, and such patience, but I think there were cuts made which did not really show the trick of getting the two choke rods together. I spent some time last night attempting to figure out how the #2 carb rods and attachments go together and also how the choke rod for #3 would fit. When I figure this out, I will post a video and post a link to it here. I am sure there is someone here who has already figured out the trick on getting these together.

3) Switches,,, i know I said early on that I will be using the factory switches with the m-unit, but I found some knock-off switches at Motea.de that have been delivered along with some new grips.

4) Shocks.. I also ordered today some yss shocks RSS222-335-p, I think that is the model number.

5) I assembled the all-balls bearing for the triple tree yesterday

Oh and my wife is feeling much better, but still coughing, but much less.
below is a photo of how I felt after working with the carb connection last night..

[newday777]

Waiting on kits and a few hoses. The three 3.5mm ID hoses between the carbs, I just ordered a meter of it today. The breather is all cleaned up with new filter and intake hoses.

When replacing the 3.5mm crossover tubes don't toss the old ones yet. If you are replacing the rubber crossover tubes for the accelerator pump then be sure to retrieve the little brass restrictors inside the original accel pump crossover tubes. Some of the PD carbs had two sets of rubber crossover tubes (six total) where three were a shared bowl vent and the other three for the accel pump.

Wilbur
Do you have pictures of the brass restrictors and location? I looked in the cross over tubes of my F3 carbs to see them, and it doesn't seem to have any.

[letmwhirl]

Waiting on kits and a few hoses. The three 3.5mm ID hoses between the carbs, I just ordered a meter of it today. The breather is all cleaned up with new filter and intake hoses.

When replacing the 3.5mm crossover tubes don't toss the old ones yet. If you are replacing the rubber crossover tubes for the accelerator pump then be sure to retrieve the little brass restrictors inside the original accel pump crossover tubes. Some of the PD carbs had two sets of rubber crossover tubes (six total) where three were a shared bowl vent and the other three for the accel pump.

Wilbur
Do you have pictures of the brass restrictors and location? I looked in the cross over tubes of my F3 carbs to see them, and it doesn't seem to have any.

What I found inside the three tubes after cutting them open were two short (maybe 5 to 7mm long) brass tubes that I had to push into the new hoses with a small screw driver. I am not sure, but it appears to me that the only purpose is to keep the hoses from sagging because the carb inlet/oulets where the hoses attach are about the same diameter.

[letmwhirl]

Question… does anyone know what size o-rings or seals are being used for the throttle shaft bores and the choke rod bores.. I believe there is way too much slack using the existing seals. The factory seals appear to be felt material.

[newday777]

If your frame is completely bar do what Kelly suggests. By far the easiest method! After you get it “upright” install the brake pedal, pivot shaft and spring BEFORE the rear swing arm……

Great tip BenelliSEI, just what I need at the moment. This is the type of info that first time guys need before reassembly. The pivot shaft on this bike was bent slightly and was a little difficult to drive out, it is still reusable but I would like to find one not bent. If anyone in the states has it on a shelf that fits a 78 model, pls let me know. I will be visiting my daughter in Houston in March.

More information regarding what should be done is order and before other things is certainly valuable information.

The other thing to look at with the pedal shaft as it was hard to get out, is corrosion in the shaft hole, very common. Make a round tube of fine sand paper to sand the hole surfaces of any rust and then grease it. The same with the shaft surfaces, so it doesn't get rusted again. I've had that problem on a 83 goldwing.
I'll still be looking for the pedal shaft and hopefully find it before you get back to the states.

In this case it is not corrosion. This bike was in an accident, on it‘s side. I can only imagine after seeing the engine guards, the engine head fins and different handle bars.. it‘s highly likely that it was on it‘s side driving into one of Germany‘s curvy incline or decline. The brake pedal shaft is actually bent. I can reuse it but would rather locate a replacement.

I'm still digging through my storage stuff looking for the pivot shaft and hopefully should find it in the next few weeks before you get to your daughter's in March. I have the breather set aside.

[denward17]

Check out these threads for carbs:

Post #79 is a good look:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,100352.75.html

or
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=48858.0

or

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=146893.0&fbclid=IwAR0i1g0OVZTWRGnVYeQZOauncWXqIkV_v87NVj8-C8D3p1I51DKJ0G1HVpw

[newday777]

Question… does anyone know what size o-rings or seals are being used for the throttle shaft bores and the choke rod bores.. I believe there is way too much slack using the existing seals. The factory seals appear to be felt material.

Yes there should be felt seals. They are just to keep dust out. Once the carbs are together, the play should tighten up.
I think they are 8mm ID and you can get a set of 6 on ebay.

[letmwhirl]

Just found Doc Jones Garage video episode 4 on YouTube, which shows a great way of assembling the carbs together. Glad I found it,, now I don‘t feel the need to make a video.
 

I will be following this later this week and trying to use the backing plate used from the carb assembly rather than making one. this appears to be at least a starting point for me to try it.

THANK YOU DOC JONES GARAGE !!!

[newday777]

Just found Doc Jones Garage video episode 4 on YouTube, which shows a great way of assembling the carbs together. Glad I found it,, now I don‘t feel the need to make a video.
 

I will be following this later this week and trying to use the backing plate used from the carb assembly rather than making one. this appears to be at least a starting point for me to try it.

THANK YOU DOC JONES GARAGE !!!

Don't follow his lead to use 4into1.com carb kits, carb rubbers or their points and condensers. Even their cables have problems.

[letmwhirl]

The Doc Jones Garage video of the carb connection helped get me motivated to get back in the garage and try out his process. It did work for me. After spending quite a bit of time the night before, attempting to get them joined, this process was fairly easy to follow. I am sure that others on this site have different processes that work as well.

here is a photo of my make-shift stand to hold the #2 carb in place while the #3 carb was joined, then the #3 choke plate, then the throttle shaft and throttle cable pivot plate.

in the next few days, I may not be able to work on the bike, as my father-in-law will have his 90th birthday next Tuesday. We have to get our summer kitchen area ready for a family party. I will of course update as any progress continues.