Topic: 71 CB500 - this will be work

[calj737]

Now would be a great time to grease that swingarm pivot bushing too. Bet you’ll find it needs some deep love too.

[cheddarGoblin]

Now it is time to do something about this rear wheel. I have been wanting to get to it but have been dreading it a little.


And will have to work on the brakes





This thing had a 5.1 inch tire on the back...it mostly fit.


The tire was a struggle. I've removed some dry and crusty tires before but this one seemed extra tough.


Looks like I am missing one of the sprocket nut retainers (not sure of correct name yet)


There is a little bit of rust to clean up here...


Got the sprocket off. Thought about replacing it while it is off, not sure if it even needs it though.


I am going to replace the bearings since I am already this far. So now to the bearing reatainer.

[cheddarGoblin]

Now would be a great time to grease that swingarm pivot bushing too. Bet you’ll find it needs some deep love too.

I've realized I need to check the swingarms on all my bikes. I did check this one though before I took the wheel off, and did not notice any play, so hopefully all it needs is grease.

[Oddjob]

Is the ball bearing still inside the clutch adjuster?

[RAFster122s]

That sprocket is toast...
OEM bearing retainers are NLA from Honda but aftermarket are available. There is a good bearing retainer wrench DSS carries and is also sold on away that makes that retainer much easier to remove after you drill the staked holes. Gonna need either a bench with dogs to clamp wheel down or someone else to hold it to get the needed leverage. It is a bear to remove by yourself.
The wrench has a machined cylinder with properly spaced pins to engage the holes in the retainer with a long arm to the wrench to give you the leverage. Once you get it started moving it becomes much easier. If you don't drill the stakes over threads the retainer is likely to wreck the threads on the hub.

Nico abrasives makes a synthetic string wheel that can clean up and even remove some of the rubbing in the hub. The ribbing area in the center of the casting is very coarse and tough to get clean. ScotchBrite pads can clean up the rest of the hub if you aren't planning to polish it, lots of tricky areas to sand and polish if you are looking to make it very shiny...

[Oddjob]

That's not a 500 rear wheel. The studs don't come out like that, possibly 400/4?

[cheddarGoblin]

Is the ball bearing still inside the clutch adjuster?

Yep it is there. Everything seemed to operate pretty smoothly once reassembled.

[cheddarGoblin]

That's not a 500 rear wheel. The studs don't come out like that, possibly 400/4?

Wow! It seems you are right, good eye!

I checked the parts fiche and it looks like it is from a CB450.


Now I am not sure if I should continue rebuilding it or look for a correct wheel. I had already gotten it complete disassembled before seeing your post.

[calj737]

I might have a spare 500 hub that would be completely usable. Oddly enough, I probably live less than 20’ from you.

I just had a peek in the parts cave, and sure enough I have a rear hub in perfect condition with new bearings and plush cush rubbers. You’ll just need to lace it to a rim. Send me a PM if you’d like it.

[grcamna2]

I might have a spare 500 hub that would be completely usable. Oddly enough, I probably live less than 20’ from you.

I just had a peek in the parts cave, and sure enough I have a rear hub in perfect condition with new bearings and plush cush rubbers. You’ll just need to lace it to a rim. Send me a PM if you’d like it.

Excellent 'save' 

[cheddarGoblin]

I might have a spare 500 hub that would be completely usable. Oddly enough, I probably live less than 20’ from you.

I just had a peek in the parts cave, and sure enough I have a rear hub in perfect condition with new bearings and plush cush rubbers. You’ll just need to lace it to a rim. Send me a PM if you’d like it.

Awesome! Will do!

[cheddarGoblin]

I completed the below right before checking this thread and finding out the wheel was from a different bike.

I've had this tool for years, I think it was to disassemble a hub from a Nissan that I no longer own. I was able to modify it to fit into the holes of the bearing retainer. The "pins" were very thin but with some heat and PB Blaster, the bearing retainer came out.


Not sure how this bearing spacer could have gotten this bent up.




Just a reference for wheel condition and to make sure I get it laced properly.



Zip, zip


And. it's apart.

[cheddarGoblin]

I have to give a HUGE thank you to CalJ737 for getting me setup with the proper hub. He not only generously provided it but even delivered it! I will be making a donation to the site at per his suggestion but first I have to find my checkbook

Not only did he provide the proper hub, it's even clean and ready to go, (and ceramic coated I think?) saving me a ton of time as well cleaning the wrong one.



I wasn't sure if the brake would fit properly or I would need something else but so far I haven't found anything else I need for reassembly.


The rim was in rough shape. Electrolysis is my new favorite method of rust removal. It still took a couple baths and some wire wheel work to get it ready but eventually got all the rust removed. Once I got it clean, I put a thin layer of clearcoat on it.


I got it loosely laced. Ready to install the bearings (that even came with the hub!) and true it up. The hub was so nice I had reservations about using the existing rim as it still had some gouges and pits that weren't going anywhere. But the bike is going to have patina anyway, so had to move forward.


Thanks again Cal!

[newday777]

Progress is always a good feeling

[RAFster122s]

Congrats on the progress and good on you Calj

[Stev-o]

I have to give a HUGE thank you to CalJ737 for getting me setup...

I dont care what anyone says, Cal is a great guy!!  Ha

[cheddarGoblin]

I think I am getting the hand of wheel truing. It isn't very fun but it is something that I am glad I learned how to do.

[denward17]

Looks better than factory, great job!

[cheddarGoblin]

Now to do something about this. Going to clean it up, give it a polish and install new brake shoes.




The cleaning and polishing went fine, ran into a bit of an issue installing the new braks shoes though.

I ordered shoes from 4 into 1, which I have never had an issue with until now. The shoes did not fit properly on either end because the material was too thick. It did not fit into the cam and blocked the hole for the cotter pin when set onto the pivot pin. It also did not have any sort of chamfer on the pivot pin side.
Comparing the old shoe (left) with the new. This is the cam side.




Every other dimension seemed to match so other than maybe 1/16" difference, they seemed correct. I didn't really want to but decided to just make them fit...

I just cut a slight notch into the end with a dremel and then ground it until I hit the mark, then flattened it with a file. Yeah, the aluminum clogged everything up but it



I did one and made sure  it fit, this shows the difference. The finished one matches the dimensions of the old shoes.


I did the same for both shoes and also gave them a chamfer for the pivot pin, then I was able to install them without issue.


Now I just have to get a new sprocket and do some frame cleanup and it should be ready to go back on.

[HondaMan]

Do the shoe linings fit into the wear groove of the drum OK?

[cheddarGoblin]

Do the shoe linings fit into the wear groove of the drum OK?

I'm not sure. Didn't occur to me to check and not sure that I know how to do so. I haven't reinstalled the wheel yet. Is there a way to mark the shoes to see where they are contacting inside the hub?

[cheddarGoblin]

Something that I am unsure of is the proper place for this seal.


The parts diagram shows one seal but it seems like I have one installed inside the bearing retainer and one installed in the sprocket side plate that I picked up from eBay since it was missing.

It seems like the sprocket side plate would be the place for it but not sure why it would fit into the bearing retainer as well.

[Oddjob]

Inside the sprocket dish is correct. The Oring also fits inside there, around the edge of the recession.