Author Topic: M10 front engine hanger bolt removal  (Read 182 times)

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Offline Cevan

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M10 front engine hanger bolt removal
« on: December 27, 2024, 06:37:56 AM »
I am trying to remove the m10 bolt that attaches the top engine case to the hanger (photo below).  As you can see, the nut is captured in the aluminum engine case (why Honda???).  The right side came out easily but the left side bolt is in there good.  I've tried heat but I'm afraid that heating that area too much will cause the aluminum to break before the nut comes loose. 

Should I just leave it be?  Any advice is much appreciated.

Offline newday777

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Re: M10 front engine hanger bolt removal
« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2024, 06:47:07 AM »
Is it that you can't get the bolt loose from the nut or is the bolt frozen to the aluminum case?
Did you use Kroil or PB Blaster on it to help break the corrosion that happens?
Heat won't be a problem on that.
Stu
Honda Parts manager in the mid 1970s Nashua Honda
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1975 K5 Planet Blue my summer ride, it was a friend's bike I worked with at the Honda shop in 76, lots of fun to be on it again
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Offline MauiK3

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Re: M10 front engine hanger bolt removal
« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2024, 06:47:39 AM »
Try soaking with penetrating oil, it should be ok to apply a little heat to the side of the nut, be careful to not start a fire with the oil. If you have an impact wrench that should help get it moving. Otherwise, a long breaker bar may work. Don't apply heat to the aluminum. It's likely some corrosion, maybe even inside the hole so soaking for some time may loosen things up some.
If all else fails, get a small die grinder (Dremel type tool) and a small carbide burr, grind a groove all the way through the side of the nut as far as you can and hit it with a chisel to split it some. Of course stay away from the aluminum. Drastic sounding but doable. You can find a Christmas tree shaped burr that will let you get close to the case without grinding it.
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Offline MauiK3

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Re: M10 front engine hanger bolt removal
« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2024, 06:48:29 AM »
Also, show us the head of the bolt.
1973 CB 750 K3
10/72 build Z1 Kawasaki

Offline Cevan

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Re: M10 front engine hanger bolt removal
« Reply #4 on: December 27, 2024, 06:52:22 AM »
Pic of head of the bolt.  I have an impact so I'll start with that on a low setting.  My fear is breaking the aluminum case.  I've been hitting it with PB Blaster every few days for awhile now. 


Offline Rookster

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Re: M10 front engine hanger bolt removal
« Reply #5 on: December 27, 2024, 07:45:35 AM »
Cut the head of the bolt off then drive the shaft of the bolt and nut out with a drift.  The triangle bracket gives you a nice sacrificial surface to cut or drill next to.  You can pick those brackets up on ebay for about $20.  If you are neat then you might not need to replace the bracket.   

Scott

Offline BenelliSEI

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Re: M10 front engine hanger bolt removal
« Reply #6 on: December 27, 2024, 07:46:00 AM »
As a last resort, use a small cutting wheel in a Dremel and cut a slot in the nut. Then use a sharp cold chisel to split the nut open?

Offline scottly

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Re: M10 front engine hanger bolt removal
« Reply #7 on: December 27, 2024, 07:51:33 AM »

Should I just leave it be?
That would be the safest and easiest option. ;)
Don't fix it if it ain't broke!
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Offline madmtnmotors

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Re: M10 front engine hanger bolt removal
« Reply #8 on: December 27, 2024, 11:37:11 AM »
Is the nut spinning with the bolt, or is the bolt seized?
TAMTF...


Wilbur



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Offline Cevan

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Re: M10 front engine hanger bolt removal
« Reply #9 on: December 27, 2024, 12:58:44 PM »
Is the nut spinning with the bolt, or is the bolt seized?

Oh god no, the nut is not spinning.  That would be catastrophic.  I'm just afraid of using too much force and snapping the aluminum that is capturing the nut.

Update: I just cut the head of the bolt off.  Safest option in my opinion.   Easy to source a new bolt versus a cracked case.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2024, 10:15:05 AM by Cevan »