Author Topic: Tank rust removal.  (Read 657 times)

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Offline Stev-o

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #25 on: January 24, 2025, 07:46:15 AM »

Rebuilt Kehin petcock and new repo cap


Keihin makes petcocks?

I rebuilt  mine. The original is made by Keihin.  At least it has a huge "K" like the jets on the strainer cap

I thought Keihin manufactured all the petcocks?  Most do not have enough real estate to display their Logo.
The same logo is on my other bikes with  Strainers!

I believe you are correct. I never noticed the logo or even thought about it.  Learned something new...thx
'74 "Big Bang" Honda 750K [836].....'76 Honda 550F.....K3 Park Racer!......and a Bomber!............plus plus plus.........

Offline rotortiller

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #26 on: January 24, 2025, 09:47:43 AM »
Thinning epoxy with a solvent changes it's properties negatively.  Too much thinner and it can shrink, crack, and lift at a later date. Most epoxy vendors do not recommend solvent thinners, specifically cautioning against them. POR tank sealer comes out of the can in a suitable thickness. Depending on cure time, the tank and epoxy could be heated to thin it out without bad #$%* happening later down the road. Both POR and epoxy may be mucked up in the right hands. In my experience those hands are usually attached the same body as the vocal cords cursing tank liners.


Offline Don R

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #27 on: January 24, 2025, 11:49:24 AM »
 As always, read and follow label directions, few folks know the properties of a product better than the people that make it.
 My buddy advised an automotive customer with a long-neglected car to put three cap fulls of Seafoam into his crankcase oil, the guy wasn't listening, didn't read the directions and dumped three cans in. Predictable results.
No matter how many times you paint over a shadow, it's still there.
 CEO at the no kill motorcycle shop.
 You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.

Offline Don R

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #28 on: January 24, 2025, 11:54:46 AM »
 I saw pics on Facebook where a guy did electrolysis on his rusty tank, he inserted the electrode into a plastic tube with large holes in it that acted as an insulator to keep it from grounding to the tank yet exposed the wire to the soda electrolyte.  Seemed like a good idea.
 You might even be able to heat the plastic tube and bend it to make itself support inside the tank and keep it closer to where you want it.
No matter how many times you paint over a shadow, it's still there.
 CEO at the no kill motorcycle shop.
 You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.

Offline Ozzybud

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #29 on: January 24, 2025, 12:07:07 PM »
Thinning epoxy with a solvent changes it's properties negatively.  Too much thinner and it can shrink, crack, and lift at a later date. Most epoxy vendors do not recommend solvent thinners, specifically cautioning against them. POR tank sealer comes out of the can in a suitable thickness. Depending on cure time, the tank and epoxy could be heated to thin it out without bad #$%* happening later down the road. Both POR and epoxy may be mucked up in the right hands. In my experience those hands are usually attached the same body as the vocal cords cursing tank liners.

Followed instructions that said to thin it!
See Pic attatched

I have been painting cars and bikes most of my life and we always thin epoxy primers. The new replacement for DP 90  is DP90LF it's the same stuff except legally they could not say to thin it on the Tech sheets as it would no longer be VOC compliant if you added thinner. For use as a seal coat before basecoat it's a must to thin it.
« Last Edit: January 24, 2025, 12:19:53 PM by Ozzybud »
1976 Z50A YELLOW
1970 CT70 BLUE
1971 CT70H ORANGE
1972 CT70H GREEN
1973 CL200 BLUE
1973 CB350F RED
1975 CB360T RED
1975 CB400F BLUE
1975 CB550 ORANGE
1976 CB750F RED

Offline Ozzybud

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #30 on: January 24, 2025, 12:10:54 PM »
Positive update!

Filled it with fresh non ethanol premium. No leaks!
Took it for a cold PNW 15 mile ride. These 350F's are a blast to ride.
« Last Edit: January 24, 2025, 03:00:04 PM by Ozzybud »
1976 Z50A YELLOW
1970 CT70 BLUE
1971 CT70H ORANGE
1972 CT70H GREEN
1973 CL200 BLUE
1973 CB350F RED
1975 CB360T RED
1975 CB400F BLUE
1975 CB550 ORANGE
1976 CB750F RED

Offline Ozzybud

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #31 on: January 24, 2025, 02:19:19 PM »
Forgot to mention when cleaning I ordered
a 12 pack of Jack's on Amazon. They worked well to lightly abrade the inside and were easy to remove. Along with some hardware held together with a bailing wire ring.
1976 Z50A YELLOW
1970 CT70 BLUE
1971 CT70H ORANGE
1972 CT70H GREEN
1973 CL200 BLUE
1973 CB350F RED
1975 CB360T RED
1975 CB400F BLUE
1975 CB550 ORANGE
1976 CB750F RED

Offline BenelliSEI

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #32 on: January 24, 2025, 04:31:14 PM »
“I rebuilt  mine. The original is made by Keihin.  At least it has a huge "K" like the jets on the strainer cap”
« Last Edit: January 23, 2025, 11:57:28 AM by Ozzybud »

Funny…. I’ve looked at that stamping +100’s of times and never connected the dots!  Thanks…..

Offline RAFster122s

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #33 on: January 24, 2025, 04:35:51 PM »
Section of light chain works on knocking loose scaly rust inside a tank and is easy to fish out afterwards...
David- back in the desert SW!

Offline Ozzybud

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #34 on: January 24, 2025, 05:06:01 PM »
“I rebuilt  mine. The original is made by Keihin.  At least it has a huge "K" like the jets on the strainer cap”
« Last Edit: January 23, 2025, 11:57:28 AM by Ozzybud »

Funny…. I’ve looked at that stamping +100’s of times and never connected the dots!  Thanks…..

Honda did a great job farming out sub assemblies to other companies.
Keihin,Nippn Seiki,Nippon Denso,Sankei . I am sure there are others.
1976 Z50A YELLOW
1970 CT70 BLUE
1971 CT70H ORANGE
1972 CT70H GREEN
1973 CL200 BLUE
1973 CB350F RED
1975 CB360T RED
1975 CB400F BLUE
1975 CB550 ORANGE
1976 CB750F RED

Offline rotortiller

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Re: Tank rust removal.
« Reply #35 on: January 25, 2025, 04:18:12 AM »