Topic: Rust converting

[CBGBs]

I'm trying a new product and it seems to be working. It is called Right Stuff and it's a rust converter. It chemically treated the rust to stop corrosion and seal the metal so that it can be painted. I've used a simillar product in a spraycan on some rust spots on my frame and paint seemed to stick quite well to it. Today I painted this onto a seatpan that I had ground off most of the rust crust and then cleaned with Acetone. The pan looks sealed.

Has anyone tried a simillar product? It was about $5 for this bottle and it should last for awhile.

Because this product is based on phosphoric acid, I thought is might work to treat the rust on the underside of my tank. Hell, it might work for the inside of a tank?

[csendker]

I've used "Must for Rust" which is also phosphoric acid based on the inside of a crusty old tank.  It did work well, but I got a lot of flash rust darn near instantly.  My fault as I didn't clean it out properly at the end - I rinsed with water and dryed it 'somewhat' with a hairdryer.  After the water rinse, I should have immediately rinsed with acetone to get the water out and then either immediately filled with gas or rinsed again with diesel/kerosene to seal it.  M4R is also pretty cheap.

[clarkjh]

Did that tank come with the cross feed or did you put it on.  I like the idea, although it would be a PITA to remove the tank.

James

[CBGBs]

The tank is from my CB350 twin and the ballance tube makes it a real pain in the @ss to remove the tank. I hate the ballance tube!

[RRRToolSolutions]

Yea - But without them there would be a lot of fuel left in that left 1/2 of the tank when she quit for out-of-gas. I guess you could pull over and lay it on the right side and call it "reserve".

Gordon

[chrisf]

I plan on using -AN quick release fittings. They aren't cheap, but it seems like a better solution than having fuel all over the place everytime the tank needs to be removed...

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=JIFFADAPTBARB


--Chris

[csendker]

I bought a couple of gas shut-offs (they were for a lawn mower, I think) and added one on each side for my 175.  I have to pull the tank forward a bit to where the frame is somewhat thinner, but it comes off nice & easy.

[CBGBs]

So no one has tried this kind of rust converting product. It seems to work. I am planning on storing this tank and I have another problem.  Is there a method for storing a tank to prevent rusting on the inside? This tank looks great inside because I treated it with Yamaha tank treatment. Its a good product and a good value. Do I put some kind of moisture absorbing stuff in there?

[csendker]

Phos. acid based stuff has been widely used, you probably just have some sort of generically named product that no one heard of with essentially the same thing in the bottle .  Try sloshing some diesel or kerosene inside the tank it to seal it up some.  I don't know how long you want to store it; this shouold hold for a reasonable amount of time, but probably not for years on end.

[CBGBs]

This thread has really gotten sidetracked and I'm a little dissappointed with it. I wanted to talk about a product which would be applied to rust and would stop it and convert it to a paintable surface. Like I thought I might try on the outside/underside of the tank. Rust can be seen in the photo. I have already treated to inside and it looks very nice, like it should. I am impressed with a product that offers such a solution to rust.
The problem I have is that if I remove the rust on the bottom of the tank( and many vintage tanks look like this), I may need to paintit and I won't be able to match the color, so perhaps I could use an epoxy black or something. I guess anything would work.

[csendker]

I used it on a seat pan, haven't got to painting it yet and still no rust, so I guess it really does work. But for any area that you can get to, I'd remove the rust the old fashioned way before painting.  Only use this stuff where elbow grease won't work. 

[CBGBs]

So you think I should be concerned about the rust on the bottom of my tank? Should I sand and paint?

[csendker]

Yes, yes and yes.  It's always the bottom that rusts out and/or forms pinholes.  Yours may not be bad, but don't let it get away from you, do it right.

[CBGBs]

This thread has really gotten sidetracked and I'm a little dissappointed with it. I wanted to talk about a product which would be applied to rust and would stop it and convert it to a paintable surface.

Don't be a baby.

Hey, it worked.  I know no one wants to talk about tank treating again.

So if I paint, what color do you suggest? I doubt I can get match and I don't have mutch cash. Would any spraycan work fine?

[isred]

Hello sounds like you are doing the same thing I am doing. Had to clean out the tank then paint it. Iused Rust converter from Kleanstrip. Covered the entire bottom of the tank along with the seams. goes on sort of white, hene turns black. works great. This stuff truly does turn rust to good mettle. The navel jele is more of a rust stripper stillnice but should still use a rust converter after. Also I don now i it is this post or a different one that you were asking advice on a cracked tube on the bottom of your tank? I would Braze a new tube on. Its the only way to truly fix it. Anyways good luck Brent

[CBGBs]

I don't know how to braze. I know welders but they don't braze. Whats the difference?

Thanks for posting

[isred]

Hello, Brazing is using a oxygen sedelen? torch. At 1200 deg. Also you use brazing rod, it has flux on the rod or use the flux separately. I believe it is personal preference. It is almost like soldering the two peaces together. I think that is how  the tank comes from the factory.  Though I could be wrong, hope this helps Brent

[CBGBs]

Thanks, I'll try to find someone who can perform this service.