Author Topic: Will this Right Handle Bar Kill switch / Start button assembly fit my CB750K?  (Read 2865 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline coolcat2002

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 90
Hello yall,

My first question for this forum.  I just bought an overpriced ($1000) for a 1974 CB750 K4 and it's in bad shape.  I'll post before after pics later, as I'm at work right now.

I saw this on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CB350-CB450-CB750-NOS-R-Handlebar-Switch-Assm-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35571QQitemZ220095307683QQtcZphoto

OEM # 35300-455-670 / 35300-300-670

Everything looks the same as mine except instead of ON/OFF it has L/H.  Will it fit my needs?




All my electrical is messed up:

1. push button missing spring (read other forum about using a Bic pen thanks)
2. Kill switch doesn't turn anything off, I have to turn the key, ignition off to stop engine
3. My right hand switch basically just holds the throttle cables as the inside is all cut up, I have no idea what the inside is suppose to look like.
4. I open my Headlight and all the cables hidden in there (is this suppose to be normal?)  it was like openning up a stomach and all the intestines falling out.
5. I want to buy an aftermarket tail light and turn signals but I have no idea what dual filament single filament means.  What do I have?  How do the 3 inputs on the new lights fit my bike? 

Opinion question:  I want to put a Sparto but is this too cliche?   I want this one but it's too expensive $145.


gold01ca

  • Guest
you need oem part# 35300-341-671, the switch you're looking at wont work on your 74 750K, you've already got a dimmer switch on the left side.
keep watching ebay for the correct one or, you can buy one from CMSNL in europe for around $120USD, genuine honda part.
thats what I did on my 74.

cheers!

Offline paxtonpony

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 370
  • Up the Irons!
    • My Pics
If you're not too awful worried about restoring it, you can always pick up a set of left and right controls off of any late model motorcycle and wire it in yourself.  Takes a little bit of work and patients but the end result is nice.  I got 06 GSXR controls on mine and they work and look great.

Just an option.
1969 CB750K - Wrecked
1978 CB750K - Sold
1992 GS500 Streetfighter - Sold
1975 CB750F - Sold (sniff, sniff)
1994 VFR750F - Sold
1990 GSXR 750 - Sold
1999 CBR1100XX - Sold
2000 Triumph Legend TT - Bike of the week for me?
1992 Mustang - Paxton powered (12.02@115mph on street tires) and For Sal

Offline Bodi

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 5,711
Questions 1,2,3 - OK, the switch on your bike is junk. Do you want it to work like "new" and is that worth $120.00 to you? If so, the new correct switch is the only answer: I would check a few other sources before going to CMSNL - they have an amazing parts selection but rather high prices.
Getting a used switch unit off ebay or a junker will usually get you problems. Another 30+ year old one will have the typical brittle plastic parts and stiff wires.
You can fit a small SPST momentary push button switch in the housing using the original start switch mounting hole. This gives you electric start at least. If you really want the other switch functions to work they can be "McGyver'ed" in as well.
Question 4 - This is normal. You can try and organize the rat's nest a bit but there are a lot of wires in there.
Question 5 - Single filament bulbs are used in the stock rear indicators which are only used as turn signals. Dual filament bulbs are used in the front indicators which are both marker lights and turn signals - dual filament means there are 2 "lamps" in one bulb, a lowish power one for the marker light and a higher power one for the turn signal function. You can tell which one is which by looking in the light bulb, the 2 filaments are easy to see on a clear bulb (harder with coloured bulbs). Honda uses single filament bulbs with one contact on the base and dual filament bulbs with 2 contacts on the base - both use the outer metal shell as the electrical ground contact. Also, single filament bases have 2 index pins at the same height, dual filament have the lins at staggered heights so you can't easily put the a single filament bulb in a dual socket or vice versa. There are single filament bulbs with 2 contacts as well, they do not use the outer shell as an electrical contact. These are uncommon in automotive use.
Tail/stop lights generally use the dual filament bulbs. Low power for tail, high for stop.
The wires - usually the sockets in motorcycle tail/stop lamps and signal lamps are rubber mounted to dampen vibration (so the lamps last longer). This insulates the socket from the frame ground so one of the 3 wires is the shell ground connection. The other 2 wires go to the 2 contacts for a dual filament bulb. If you want to use that for a rear turn signal you can just ignore the low-power filament wire and connect the same 2 harness wires. Some SOHC4 models have the rear marker light wires available in the harness but left unused... so you could have rear markers too but generally this is only legal with red lights at the rear of a vehicle.
Aftermarket signal light units usually have a green wire for ground but no standard for the power wire colours, so you have to experiment to figure out the wiring.
The bike wiring is all in your owner's manual wiring diagram.

Opinion question - Whatever you like is perfect for your bike!

Offline paxtonpony

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 370
  • Up the Irons!
    • My Pics
The taillight question...  If you're not worried about restoring (think I've said that before) you can do about anything.  Find something that you like.  Taillights can be sourced from anything and anywhere, from 59 Cadillacs or trailors all the way to modern sport bikes.  I'm running an LED taillight off of an 05 or 06 Yamaha R-1 that I picked up on E-bay for $5 plus shipping.  Wasn't my first choice but it was the right price (cheap), a stock motorcycle LED unit, and actually looks pretty good.  Most people don't even notice it isn't original when it's parked.
1969 CB750K - Wrecked
1978 CB750K - Sold
1992 GS500 Streetfighter - Sold
1975 CB750F - Sold (sniff, sniff)
1994 VFR750F - Sold
1990 GSXR 750 - Sold
1999 CBR1100XX - Sold
2000 Triumph Legend TT - Bike of the week for me?
1992 Mustang - Paxton powered (12.02@115mph on street tires) and For Sal

Offline Jonesy

  • Shop Rat
  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 2,648
  • "Damn! These HM300 Pipes Are Expensive!!!"
That style switch was also meant to be wired straight to the starter solenoid (before the starter safety unit models). It can be made to work though.
"Every time I start thinking the world is all bad, then I start seeing people out there having a good time on motorcycles; it makes me take another look." -Steve McQueen