Topic: ClawSS' 76' CB550F Project

[ClawSS]

After a hectic week of truck problems, podcasting, short films, and work, I have finally found time to sit down and create the project thread for my 76' CB550F.

I picked this bike up in Chicago from a lady and her grandson who were going through the late grandfather's belongings. This bike has sat for around 3 years, and the widow decided that she could not stand to walk by it any longer. It appears to be garage kept for the majority of it's life with the usual blemishes that come with 50 years of love and use.

Since the images attached, I have washed the bike and drained the tank through the petcock valve which I found closed upon inspection. I ran out of time to do anything else this week, but I still hear gas in the tank when sloshed, so I'll remove the tank to get the rest out tomorrow.

Before I go through the carbs and clean the tank, what are the general tools that I need to have on hand for working on this bike? I know GM trucks commonly use 10mm 13mm 15mm and 18mm bolts and I wasn't sure if these Hondas followed a similar standard and if you guys knew a list off the top of your head or could link a forum to a list of tools that I'll need when cleaning or repairing. I have a tool set with varying wrenches sockets and drives, but not JIS screw drivers, which I know I need.

Got a notification today that my cb550 book has been shipped, so forgive me if this is all in there and I'm jumping the gun!

[ClawSS]

I have walk around photos but I'm unable to add all of them to the main post or this reply. I work in media and I compressed them smaller than 4096kb, but idk.

I kind of haphazardly took the photos not knowing where to look for wear points or problems areas so let me know if you want to see anything specific! The more knowledge and well trained eyes I can get to help identify problems the better!

Below are the images I promised in my introduction thread:

[ClawSS]

Had to split these two from the previous message to get it to work.

[newday777]

That is a great start up write up.
The common sizes on Hondas are 8mm,10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm.
My CB500/550 book arrived from Mark today. You will be amazed with it.

[newday777]

And, the cross head screws are not Phillips but are JIS(Japanese Industrial Standard).
Vessel offers good fitting JIS screwdrivers and tips for hand impact drivers to loosen the screws safer.

[kerryb]

That looks like a real good starting point.  Just got my book, so I’ll be following along.

[denward17]

Following, nice bike to start with.

[ClawSS]

Took the tank off today to get the last bit of gas out of the tank. Dummy me I didn't get any photos of the inside, but I do have some of the petcock. The tank isn't the "cleanest" but also definitely not covered in rust from what I can see and comparing to ones I have seen. The dumped fuel was, for the most part, "fuel colored' with a little bit of brown discoloration draining at the very end. Any tips or tricks to tank cleaning?

I noticed that the petcock valve only drained out of one nozzle and found that the other side was clogged with gunk. I pulled the petcock off along with the fuel sock. I did my best to clean it out gently with a pick and pipe cleaner. The fuel sock was brown and the o-ring that rides inside the nut that threads to the tank was completely shot. See images. I have cleaned the sock, but it is definitely stained and beginning to fray and come apart at its seams.

To my knowledge the petcock didn't leak before removing and there is no staining indicating a prior leak on the petcock or the engine. After reading a forum from a few days ago and one a bit older from 2017, I've learned that these 76' bikes seem to have some "pesky petcock" problems. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,139372.25.html#:~:text=I%27ve%20found%20them%20on%20eBay.

I have found the following links to kits:
https://www.common-motor.com/honda-cb550f-petcock-rebuild?srsltid=AfmBOooqB16tm83OO0I2fJmavpLK8o76H3OOWOc3lOYPDeU1q0afjhJ8lYw&gQT=2

https://www.ebay.com/itm/226233476688 - courtesy of Honda Man in another thread - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,205073.msg2316081.html#msg2316081:~:text=Quote-,Honda%20sells%20a%20petcock%20rebuild%20kit%20for%20those%20bikes%2C%20if%20it%20has%20the%20OEM%20petcock%3A%20%2316952%2D341%2D671,-(Also%20in%20Chapter

https://4into1.com/genuine-honda-petcock-strainer-set-16952-341-671-cb400f-cb500t-cb550-cb750/?srsltid=AfmBOor9IodG3M85AI_Q39YdBzRvk5FMkdW-YgLVlvQYSHcPMpLBjzGr

I noticed when examining the top of the petcock that the top seal is definitely orange with what I assume is rust. What are your guys' suggestions? In my mind, I don't think I need to rebuild/replace the petcock and only do the worn pieces, but I'm open to your suggestions!

[denward17]

Check with Sound Sound Honda, you can get a rebuild kit, which is a new strainer, washer and the small gasket where the strainer is set.

[denward17]

BTW, that common motor kit looks like it includes the o ring I've been looking for in this thread, assuming it is the right size:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,205073.0.html

[Stev-o]

Before I go through the carbs and clean the tank, what are the general tools that I need to have on hand for working on this bike?I have a tool set with varying wrenches sockets and drives, but not JIS screw drivers, which I know I need.

To start off, I recommend"

- set of wrenches 10-17 mm [and get two 10mm!]
- set of sockets 8-19mm
- impact driver with JIS bits [you may have to buy the bits separate]
- Set of JIS screwdrivers, I recommend Vessel

This will do 90% of the maint on your bike.  Did you get a Honda tool kit with the bike?  [Look under the seat]

BTW - the brown stuff in the tank and petcock is rust, need to address that. I've had mixed results rebuilding petcocks, if in your budget, buty a new Honda part and be done with it.

Good luck.

PS. 1 more important piece of advice, dont buy cheap china crap parts for your bike, you will regret it!

[bek1966]

It's nice see another CB550F project.  Following!

[denward17]

Tips on tank cleaning:
Lots of people use something like Evaporust, but it is expensive to buy enough to fill up tank.
Others use white vinegar (more acidic), but only let it soak for 2-3 days before checking.

What ever method you use, rinse with diesel fuel, then put about a pint of 2 stroke oil in it and swish it around to keep from rusting again, or immediately start using it again with fuel.

[carnivorous chicken]

For tools I would also add: feeler gauges to check valve lash (.002 and .003, and Motion Pro and others make curved ones that make the job easier) and for adjusting the points gap. I think it's Motion Pro that also makes a socket and screwdriver tool to adjust the valve lash. A timing light and carb sync tool (various threads on the latter as to which are good, I like the Morgan Carbtune. For your plugs there is nothing better than the oem plug wrench that Honda made, hopefully it's in the tool kit. There are a few different sizes other than the 8, 10, 12, 14 and 17mm, and there is a special wrench for adjusting shock pre-load and for removing the steering stem, if you ever need to do that. A good impact driver -- the kind you hit with a hammer, and with a JIS bit -- is also essential for loosening up old bolt.

[Kelly E]

Tips on tank cleaning:
Lots of people use something like Evaporust, but it is expensive to buy enough to fill up tank.
Others use white vinegar (more acidic), but only let it soak for 2-3 days before checking.

What ever method you use, rinse with diesel fuel, then put about a pint of 2 stroke oil in it and swish it around to keep from rusting again, or immediately start using it again with fuel.

Don't forget that the EvapoRust will derust alot more stuff after cleaning up a gas tank. We've done several really crusty bikes with one 5 gallon bucket so the cost is spread out.

[ClawSS]

Before I go through the carbs and clean the tank, what are the general tools that I need to have on hand for working on this bike?I have a tool set with varying wrenches sockets and drives, but not JIS screw drivers, which I know I need.

To start off, I recommend"

- set of wrenches 10-17 mm [and get two 10mm!]
- set of sockets 8-19mm
- impact driver with JIS bits [you may have to buy the bits separate]
- Set of JIS screwdrivers, I recommend Vessel

This will do 90% of the maint on your bike.  Did you get a Honda tool kit with the bike?  [Look under the seat]

BTW - the brown stuff in the tank and petcock is rust, need to address that. I've had mixed results rebuilding petcocks, if in your budget, buty a new Honda part and be done with it.

Good luck.

PS. 1 more important piece of advice, dont buy cheap china crap parts for your bike, you will regret it!

No Tool Kit unfortunately. I was under the impression that the seat was replaced which would make sense that there’s no tool kit, but it came with the Motorcycle Warranty Policy and Service Record underneath a compartment on the bottom of the seat. Do all Honda seats come with a new service and warranty book? Stupid question, but this seat is pretty nice to be almost 50 years old

Also, forgot to mention in all my ramblings, the bike came with the original manual and some other Honda papers which is super cool!

[ClawSS]

While waiting on the delivery of petcock seal and fuel sock, I went ahead and hooked up the battery. Let there be light! Dash, speedo, tach, headlight high and low horn and turn signals all work. I did notice that the turn signals didn't flash and only got brighter on the side you're turning. Is this correct?

I pressed the starter to see if I had anything going to it and nothing. Headlight turned off and that's it. I'm going to hook up a charger to the battery tonight. The neutral light was not lit on the dash. Is there a failsafe that prevents turnover if the bike thinks it isn't in neutral? I'm going to assume that the bulb is not burnt out as the whole dash appears to be much newer, but I will not rule it out! I'm pretty sure I've got it in neutral too as I pressed down on the shifter and then a half step up. The rear tire rolls free.  I'm interested in hearing your opinions or educated guesses on this neutral quirk!

I pulled the plugs and from driver left to right these were their conditions: (I will update with images when I can)

All have spark.
1.) Somewhat blackened, but not horrible
2.) Normal
3.) Normal
4.) Somewhat white

[Stev-o]

While waiting on the delivery of petcock seal and fuel sock, I went ahead and hooked up the battery. Let there be light! Dash, speedo, tach, headlight high and low horn and turn signals all work. I did notice that the turn signals didn't flash and only got brighter on the side you're turning. Is this correct?

Your battery may not have enough power to operate the signals or starter motor.  If you don't know how old it is, you may want to put a new one on your purchase list [they generally last 3 years]. Report back after you charge it.

[ClawSS]

Your battery may not have enough power to operate the signals or starter motor.  If you don't know how old it is, you may want to put a new one on your purchase list [they generally last 3 years]. Report back after you charge it.

Will do! Battery was left on the bike by a buyer before me that ended up not buying. I assume the battery came from another bike or off a charger just for testing. I will keep buying a new one in mind!

[MauiK3]

Nice project!
Another good way to remove rust gently is electrolysis. I've done a tank that way.
Fill the tank with water that has some washing soda in it.
Hook up your power supply of choice and watch the magic. I used a bent bit of re-bar tie wire dangled into the water in the tank (without touching the tank walls).
https://www.instructables.com/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/

[HondaMan]

For your new battery: get the AGM type made by Yuasa in Japan. They seem to be the best on these bikes, in general, and last the longest. I got over 8 years on the last ones. Each.

Check that intake manifold's O-rings where they bolt to the head. With sparkplugs ranging from blackened to white, the O-rings inside them (where it seals to the head) are probably hard and don't seal well anymore.

What a great set of header pipes!

[ClawSS]

For your new battery: get the AGM type made by Yuasa in Japan. They seem to be the best on these bikes, in general, and last the longest. I got over 8 years on the last ones. Each.

Check that intake manifold's O-rings where they bolt to the head. With sparkplugs ranging from blackened to white, the O-rings inside them (where it seals to the head) are probably hard and don't seal well anymore.

What a great set of header pipes!

Did the engine guard dent in one of the pipes in it’s lay over or is that stock?

[ClawSS]

Put the battery on the charger and was inspecting the bike when I noticed a burnt connector! See image. I looked at the wiring diagram and sourced it back to the Neutral Switch!

Aha!



With the mindset of don't move the fence till you know why the fence was there, I plan to look into why this connection is burnt. I would assume it's the rats nest I mentioned earlier. See picture.

[newday777]

Get this kit to replace the barrel connectors that you cut out.

https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/ck-1

[ClawSS]

Get this kit to replace the barrel connectors that you cut out.

https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/ck-1

What is the difference between the vintage barrel connectors and modern day?