Topic: 70’ko handlebar controls refinishing recommendations?

[slyguy]

They’re very faded, do you guys paint maybe with a satin black or gloss(not sure of original appearance) and I suppose some may have them reanodized….?

[Don R]

 I've seen them painted with black epoxy paint and the marks repainted in red.

[pjlogue]

Originals were anodized black which turn purple over the years.  They can be re-anodized, or powder coated or epoxy painted.  I powder coated a set.  If you go this route you need to tape off the places it clamps against the handlebars otherwise the opening becomes too small.  Powder coat is thick.

-P.

[slyguy]

Thanks for the input guys, were they a gloss or satin(semi gloss) finish originally?

[Don R]

 I'd say the anodizing is somewhere between glossy and satin. I've had good luck with Rustoleum appliance epoxy.

[slyguy]

I used vht satin epoxy I had sitting around & I gotta say WOW! Looks mint…minus the runs on the backside lol I pulled the switches to prep but couldn’t get that 1/2 moon out & don’t want to “cut” the wires so maybe pull the solder & resolder. I have the testers orange for the needle tip on gauges & mine all look orange too, might be faded from a red?? They’re gonna look great I’m sure! I love getting it back together after sitting all apart for 13-14 yrs! 🥳

[CycleRanger]

I was going to suggest VHT satin. I like the VHT paint.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

FWIW, I use Rustoleum Black Semi-Gloss High Performance spray paint on the frame and whatever else needs to be black; let it dry for a day or so and it seems pretty chip resistant.

[slyguy]

Oh no I used glossy, not satin! I wonder if I can or should use the satin over the gloss for another coat? What do you think, any paint gurus here?

[CycleRanger]

If you like the way they look now they're fine.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Yeah, really - and if not, paint over them!

[slyguy]

I don’t know what they were originally?

[M 750K6]

Mine were pretty glossy. Faded, but glossy. They look like a black anodised finish originally. Now silvery grey, lightest where the sun hits it.

Unfortunately, I had to replace the right one. The replacement is a black satin. I am slowly glossing it up, when I can be bothered, with T-Cut and polish.

[MauiK3]

Pretty sure the anodized look was a satin

[newday777]

Pretty sure the anodized look was a satin

I agree FWIW

So how is everyone doing the letters?
And the red Stop/Run switch?

[slyguy]

I ended up using vht satin for a topcoat.
What do other restorers do for the 3-way brake hoses switch as far as finish? They came grayish kinda..mine is, but wondering whether to leave it as is or spray it satin black?

[newday777]

I ended up using vht satin for a topcoat.
What do other restorers do for the 3-way brake hoses switch as far as finish? They came grayish kinda..mine is, but wondering whether to leave it as is or spray it satin black?

They were just like the master cylinder and caliper originally

[jonda500]

Here is a picture showing the color of a new old stock switchblock on the left (cost me over $200!!) and a new reproduction on the right. The master cylinder shows what fifty years of aging does to the original anodized black.
John

[slyguy]

Yeah thanks Jonda500, that M/C looks like mine did(1970). Are your letters & dots on the nos red or orange in color? For some reason I’m thinking mine were originally orange not red, but maybe that’s just faded?

[jonda500]

They are orange on the NOS one and on all of my old faded original ones too. I wonder why they went with the red lettering on the re-pops?
John

[Ujeni]

The correct finish is a chromic (type 1) anodizing. NOT sulfuric anodizing (type 2).

For a factory finish, you need to remove all anodizing and polish the aluminum to a near-mirror shine. Then have it chromic anodized.

Sulfuric anodizing will come out flat and gray.

Indeed, the red letter was done with an enamel.