Topic: Will the Dyna S ignition solve my points woes?

[Hope]

Alright...  I'm supposed to be at the Blessing of the Bikes RIGHT NOW.....

Either Honda sold me a bad battery or my points have had it.  My initial guess is that my points have had it, and that I am killing my brand new battery trying to get my 550 started.

In either case, should I need points, this will be the 3rd set in 8 years.  Good? Bad? Normal?  Dunno.  So this ebay auction  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/honda-cb750-sohc-cb550-DYNA-ignition-n-r_W0QQitemZ180031142196QQihZ008QQcategoryZ35594QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem advertises that "direct bolt on in place of your points plate.brand new in package . never adjust points again!!!! increase coil output!!"

However, I see that the Dyna S web site doesn't make such a claim.  They state

The Dyna S is a complete self-contained electronic ignition system built with the latest state-of-the-art engineering. This is the same ignition used by top racers over the past 2 decades. The Dyna S is completely housed behind the ignition cover and uses a magnetic rotor with the original spark advancer, so the factory advance curve is maintained.

The venerable Dyna S ignition is a time proven solution to the basic ignition and trigger needs of the modern race bike. As a stand alone ignition or as a trigger for the Dyna 4000 Pro ignition, the Dyna S is the standard of performance and reliability. "

So, what's the consensus?  Go with the Dyna S?  Is the ebay seller correct in saying that I will never have to adjust points again?  Who's running this ignition that is happy with it?  Any cons to installing this ignition?  Is the install fairly simple?

[TwoTired]

A lot of people will tell you to get a Dyna.  I don't own one, though.

I have working points sets that are 15 years old.  Reconditioning them every 2-3 years is not a problem for me, and waayy cheaper than a Dyna unit.

These bikes are supposed to have a tune-up every 3000 miles or 3 months according to the owners manual.  This includes dressing or replacing the points, as well as valve adjustment, spark plugs etc.  This is not usually accomplished 10 minutes before a planned ride.

As for the battery, you should have a digital meter for diagnostic purposes. They are available under $10.  And with it, you can quickly determine if your battery is depleted, as well as check your charging system.

Cheers,

[mlinder]

I was at the point that I could no longer adjust the timing correctly becaus emy points were too worn.
I could spend 30 bucks on parts, and have to adjust again in 2 or 3k miles, or spend 120 bucks on a dyna-s and not worry about adjusting timing again.
I went with the dyna-s.
Works well, and was easy to install. The fact that I won't have to check points clearances and adjust timing again is worth the money to me.
Supposedly, it also sends a better spark, even through stock coils. The design allows a longer build up of current, producing a hotter spark, which will burn fuel more efficiently, especially at high revs.
That's the theory, anyway.

[Andoo]

I have the dyna-s and I'll never mess with a set of points again!
Made my bike much more reliable, and for the price you cant go wrong.

[mrbreeze]

Back in April 02,I bought a Dyna 2000($375),and Accel coils & wires($150) from Dennis Kirk. I immediately installed the coils & wires and noticed a difference (quicker starts,better acceleration).This was before ever tearing into the carbs or synching.Two years later,I moved to Calif.(going from 5000 ft. elevation in Wyoming to sea level in Calif.). I installed the Dyna but didn't ride for the first year as I was planning on doing the carbs first. By this time I had switched to pod filters and a 4to1 Kerker so I was running super lean.After rebuilding the carbs and experimenting with jetting & needle settings,I finally had it running to where I wasn't in danger of holing a piston but still needed to get fine tuned.After dialing in the Dyna,I wisely bought the Morgan Carbtune and from there,it runs like a champ. I don't miss setting points and totally enjoy rapping up to redline without any glitches.

[eldar]

There is no doubt that the dyna systems are better than points. After all, if points were as good as an electronic ign, they would still be in common use. They are not and have not been since the 70s pretty much. The dyna might not do much with the stock coils but those are pretty limited anyways. The dyna does open up a whole range of coil options though. You dont find anyone running points with hot cams and such. It has also been shown that the air/fuel mix requires in most cases, 17,000 volt about to burn fully. Points when new, deliver about 12,000 to maybe 14,000 volts.  I know the purists cant stand anyone tampering with anything and making it non-factory. But thems the facts which can be backed up by anyone who has run points and the dyna.

[liaudio]

The Dyna-S Electronic Ignition was the best purchase I have made for my CB750.  Thats all I have to say about that.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Money well spent....... I installed the predecessor to the Dyna S, a Dyna III, back in the 80's. Hasn't been touched since. No points, no timing, just riding. Best single improvement I ever made on my 750F.

[MRieck]

The Dyna-S Electronic Ignition was the best purchase I have made for my CB750.  Thats all I have to say about that.

Succinct and on target.

[Jonesy]

The Dyna-S system has many advantages over the stock igniton system:

-Usually once the timing is set, you never need to play with the timing again
-No moving parts to wear out (breaker points gradually wear down their rubbing blocks, slowly retarding the timing over time)
-You don't have to fiddle with the dwell (required for points in order to get maximum primary coil saturation for good spark at high RPM)
-No changes in resistance (unlike points, which vary as they go from new/worn in/corroded, etc)
-Pretty much everyone I've talked to agrees that the Dyna system is extremely reliable

However, the points system will work just fine, provided it has the proper care and feeding (points have worked well for over 50 years, so they do something right). Plus, when compared to new points, the Dyna is expensive at $120.

But, considering how long the Dyna lasts, and the costs of new points over that period of time, the Dyna will pay for itself in the long run. I have a Dyna on my CB750 and I find it somewhat easier to start and I don't have to wait as long for it to warm up. I like it. (My 2 cents)

[Gordon]

If you go with the Dyna-S, get it from Z1 Enterprises.  Best price available and the owner is a member of this forum.

[BobbyR]

Cheapskate that I am, I broke down and bought a Dyna S and Synchronizers from Z1. My 750 runs so nice now, I started doing cosmetic work I was going to skip.

[GammaFlat]

I put a Dyna S unit on my 750 K6 a couple years ago and am extremely happy.  It was nice to be relatively certain that my ignition and it's timing were ok - as opposed to other tuning problems.  Another very interesting option is mentioned in this thread: http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=15948.0   entitled: "Transistorized ignition, points style. (Updated) Interested?"

I like what HondaMan is doing (see above thread).  I guess you could call it an electronic ignition hybrid. 

One of the downsides to electronic ignitions is that when they fail, you are screwed (if without a new Dyna S unit, for example).  Points are a little more elegant in that you can "play with them" on the roadside and more easily get spare parts. 

HondaMan's solution actually uses your existing points as a sort of low load switch... the heavy work is done by a remotely mounted transistor.  The upshot is that you can easily reconfigure back to the "factory points setup" on the road (he is talking about making it as simple as a switch mounted on the ignition box) and be on your way. 

HondaMan's unit should come in cheaper than the Dyna-S as well (cost has not been established yet). 

As I have said, I like my Dyna-S but if I didn't have one I'd be scratching on HondaMan's door the moment they were/are available (I may anyway and sell my Dyna-S).  He is currently having a few units tested and I don't know when he'll be ready for primetime.  Units similar to what he is building are also commercially available (I'd wait for his) and mentioned in the above thread. 

Wanna solve your carb problems too?  HondaMan is also making noises about doing a fuel injection system at some point in the future (mentioned in the same thread).  I WILL be in line for that.  (This dude.. as many of you already know.. really really knows what he is doing and he happens to like 750 fours.) 

[HondaMan]

Alright...  I'm supposed to be at the Blessing of the Bikes RIGHT NOW.....

Either Honda sold me a bad battery or my points have had it.  My initial guess is that my points have had it, and that I am killing my brand new battery trying to get my 550 started.

I'm just about to release the Transistorized Amplifier that runs from the points in these bikes. I designed it to expressly solve this problem, after some discussions with other SOHC-ers here.

This unit costs about $60-$65 (for use with stock Honda coils), and I give a 5-year warranty with it. All you need do is connect it between the points and coils, then one wire to ground and the other to a switched +12v source, like the black wire at the coils. The points will then last until their rubbing blocks wear off!

Search for "transistorized" and you'll see the thread about it. It's been in test since January of this year, both here in my shop and with some other SOHC-ers from here.

(P.S.: I think GammaFlat is too kind...    )

[KB02]

Besides, why pay $132 when you can pay $120 for the same thing from a more trustable source: www.Z1Enterprizes.com

[Hope]

Will I loose my kickstart?

[Jonesy]

No!

(Why do you ask?)

[Hope]

Just making sure that I won't loose the option to kickstart and have to rely on push button 100% of the time.

[HondaMan]

Just making sure that I won't loose the option to kickstart and have to rely on push button 100% of the time.

Mine starts more easily with the electronics added. I imagine the Dyna would be similar, but not having one, I can't say for sure.
One testimony about my Transistorized Ignition is in from HCritz: he's testing one for me in Mississippi, where it's nice and hot. See the thread about it: I think he's the last entry, this week. Terry's going to test a new style one as soon as he gets his bike running again: some sort of carb problem. I'm developing the 3-way switch for him so he can compare WITH/WITHOUT/OFF modes on performance with Dyna coils, in hot Aussie weather.

[Hope]

I'd glady test your electronics on my running bike in Louisiana's high temps.  Keep me in mind!

[Hope]

Alright guys...  I pulled the trigger and bought the Dyna S ignition.  I'll keep you updated about the performance of this ignition on my bike.  I'm excited about not having to change or set points again!

[tmht]

I'd glady test your electronics on my running bike in Louisiana's high temps.  Keep me in mind!

It's not the heat down here, it's the humidity that will potentially cause that unit problems (HondaMan's not the Dyna). I think you'll be happy with the dyna unit. It works well even in our gross summer weather. I have had one on my 400 down hear in NOLA for over 3000 miles and have had zero problems with it. And at the moment I only have kick start available as my button is broken again.

[Hope]

You're right about the humitidy.  It causes us to keep an extra thick layer of Mothers on our bikes too.   

[tmht]

You're right about the humitidy.  It causes us to keep an extra thick layer of Mothers on our bikes too.   

Nah, That's why I painted my bike with flat Olive Drab camo paint. I have no off street parking for the bike at the moment so it is going to get filthy no matter what. I like riding much more than I like cleaning. 

[ic455]

No hijack intended here, but I gotta ask:  If I install a Dyna S, a pair of Dyna green 3 ohm coils, and a set of 8mm supression Dyna wires, do I need to switch from D8EA plugs to DR8EA (resistor)?  I ask because it appears that the wire boots are not resistors, and the description on Z1 doesn't mention this.