Topic: Possibly a new drag bike build. Maybe??

[dragracer]

I was recently gifted an old dragbike that had been abandoned in a storage facility.  I picked it up from Jacksonville Florida a few weeks ago.  The bike isn't complete and has been sitting since the mid 80's based on the date code of the battery i found in the chassis. Its got a 4.75" rear Sun wheel with a old slick, an extended swingarm and a RC  pipe. Sadly, one of the tubes is crushed about halfway shut. It has a drum brake up front so I'm guessing it looks like a CL 450 front end?? The engine spins over with some compression.  I'm guessing it's probably stock because I can push down the kicker with my hand.

At this moment I'm contemplating restoring it as a  wheelie bar and slick bike with some upgrades. It came with no bodywork so I'll have to figure which direction to go appearance wise. As far as the engine, it would be nice if I could put together another 72mm bore engine with a nicely ported head and decent lift cam. Nitrous oxide is definitely on the list. I pulled the engine off to lift the valve cover last night. I was somewhat hoping to find an aftermarket cam but to no avail.  It was very clean up top though. The engine wasn't oily at all and could have been freshened up prior to being parked. I did try dropping my scope into the cylinder to see if the pistons were stock. It was hard to tell but they appear factory. Nevertheless, I'm planning to toy with this thing for the next week or so and make up my mind which direction this will head.

[dusterdude]

Nice find frank

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[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Here we go 

[dragracer]

A few more when it was loaded on my friends trailer.

[dragracer]

Shop Dog helped me pull the engine from the frame. I need to remove the valve cover to see what underneath.  Likely just a stock cam. If so, that'll tell the rest of the story.

[Stev-o]

Would be a cool project to restore as a period correct racer! 

I have a small fairing sitting around if you are interested?

[scottly]

The front forks have the early 750 caliper mounts. Does it have a "unicorn" top triple?

[Don R]

 Nice find! There are a few goodies there, I wouldn't be anxious to grab a handful of that front brake though, the drilled strut looks like it's being pushed rather than pulled, but it did survive this long.

[dragracer]

I need to look at the top clamp Scottly. I know it's different than the later models I currently race.

[dragracer]

Would be a cool project to restore as a period correct racer! 

I have a small fairing sitting around if you are interested?

Thank Steve-o. I'll keep the fairing in mind if I move this project forward. My mind wants to build it as a wheelie bar bike. I really want to see if I can launch an SOHC based bar bike hard enough to get a low 1.30 to high 1.20 second 60' time. I'd like to see a 5.9xx 1/8th mile ET on raw horsepower as a target. I know a little nitrous oxide would make that number easily attainable.  The bike would need to be as light as possible so using light weight wheels and a 530 chain is important. I'd prefer to use the stock body work but that does add weight. I may be on the hunt for a  tank with a rusted bottom and just gut it out as a shell. I've got an aluminum fuel cell is could then use. That's how my mono shock bike is set up now. A backbone fuel cell would be more ideal and something to consider also. It'd be great if i could find a one piece Tracy body for a period correct look though.

I've got a mildly ported K head on hand already along with  set of 72mm MTC pistons. I'd send that head off to get oversized valves installed and a bit more port work to make it breath. I don't currently have a bored cylinder and would have to acquire a used one or get a stock block reserved and bored.  Someplace in my stash there's an RC315 cam though I'd much rather have a 327 cam. I know that cam works well as I have one in both of my dragbikes now. Connecting rods would be my next shortcoming to overcome. Upgraded rod bolts with stock rods might be something to ponder in lieu of aftermarket parts. My local guy is no longer able to get in the shop to work so I'd have to find someone to undercut the transmission without shelling out a fortune. As far as a clutch setup goes, I do have an MRE lockup that can be installed. I've got numerous choices to pursue for ignition controllers.  MSD, Pro Series 2, Dyna 4000 or just a simple DRL400 with a dynamic S plate. I'm sure I have a set of coils on a shelf in the shop so spark is pretty much covered. Carburetors are going to be an issue unless I buy new RS 34's. Of course they aren't free and would likely be my biggest expense on the build besides a new set of custom built wheelie bars. Its the material cost that'll hit me in the head. Labor won't be much because I have a good friend that'll hook me up. He's already done several sets for our KZ based dragbikes and and very satisfied with his work.

I've got the off season to make some decisions and collect more parts if I want to bring this old drsgbike back to life. Oh, and I'll graciously accept items from my friends here on the forum to make this resurrection happen😅🤣😂

[scottly]

I'd prefer to use the stock body work but that does add weight. I may be on the hunt for a  tank with a rusted bottom and just gut it out as a shell.

It'd be great if i could find a one piece Tracy body for a period correct look though.

When Bill and Sam were at Gary Pena's place picking hot rod parts, they got a fiberglass stock-looking tank that was basically a shell with a small tank built in. They also got a Tracy body.
FYI, the unicorn triples bring a premium price, since they tend to break easily, and K0-K2 restorers need them.

[Don R]

 True on the unicorn triples, I bought my last one from Yamiya, cheaper than Ebay and made from better aluminum which is reportedly difficult to break. I used a JDM one on my recent K0 assembly, it has the hole for the speed warning light.

 I see CycleX has a big tire looking Gary Pena new old stock chassis. There is also an aluminum RC Engineering frame with a Ceriani fork and Borani rims. Look under high roller parts.

[dragracer]

I'd prefer to use the stock body work but that does add weight. I may be on the hunt for a  tank with a rusted bottom and just gut it out as a shell.

It'd be great if i could find a one piece Tracy body for a period correct look though.

When Bill and Sam were at Gary Pena's place picking hot rod parts, they got a fiberglass stock-looking tank that was basically a shell with a small tank built in. They also got a Tracy body.
FYI, the unicorn triples bring a premium price, since they tend to break easily, and K0-K2 restorers need them.

Unfortunately one side of the top tree is broken. I discovered it when I decided to loosen all the triple tree bolts to slide the fork cubes up. I wanted to lower the front of the bike to match the rear to see how much ground clearance I'd have once the chassis was somewhat level. The daggum top bolt was already loose. That when I saw the freaking Crack. As luck would have it, I accidentally broken the other side myself while trying to pry it open slightly to move the fork tube. Oh well.  So much for the desirable unicorn triple. Now I've got no choice except to change out the entire front end. I'm on the look out now for a complete front end with axle and spacers if anybody has a c g cap one laying around. Odds are I'll have to buy new, custom shortened tube from Cyc K e Ex to meet my specific needs. I'm looking at needing a 25" set up now, centerline of axle to the top clamp.

[Don R]

 I built one using F1 lowers and 550 tubes, it's in the storage unit right now or I'd run out and measure it. I do have one with no engine that's 550 tubes and K4 lowers, I will measure it. I think later 750 top trees will interchange, as long as they're not F models.

[Don R]

 Center of axle to top of the triple tree is 27 1/2" that's with nothing sticking above the top tree, on the side stand and no engine or exhaust. I'd guess with an inch of tube slid up and standard weight engine it would be close to 25. I'm sure you have experience with it that I don't, just sharing my numbers. The replacement tubes were 21 13/16". I got them before the price doubled when a supplier went out of business.
  The frame it's on is raked a few degrees. it should sit pretty low and have some clearance since the turbo exhaust goes out high on the left. 

[dragracer]

As I walk through the process of determining if I want to proceed with this wheelie bar bike project, I've been working out a few things in my head. One important issue is what to do about an extended tail piece. I've still got the sheet metal molds that I used on my 2 other750 bikes but I really don't want to duplicate that look on this one. I decided to explore a more nostalgic look to keep everything as basic as possible.  I decided to use a 10" piece of pocket water main as my starting point. I'm milling over how to blend the piece i made with an aftermarket type tank and a simple fairing of some kind. I laid out a basic shape and used my circular saw to cut the pvc accordingly. I'm not married to the rounded shape and may flatten out the top side a bit before laying the fiberglass matting inside and rolling on the epoxy to make the actual tail piece. I need to determine how I want the seat pan positioned now so I'm comfortable on the bike. Itll be incorporated into the tail piece aling with some type of fender that i haven't figured out yet. My body has to be planted firmly in the seat so I don't slide backwards when I throw the clutch off the 2 step at full throttle. Bare with me on this crazy tail piece fellas. I'm Subject to chucking that monstrosity in the junk pile and going to another plan at any minute. 😆

 I'm leaning towards sticking with the old school spoke/drum wheel on the rear. I'll also use an aluminum spoken wheel on the front but with a disc and newer style brakes. I'm not trying to build a rocket but it needs to stop safely at any speed. It would be nice to put light weight race wheels on this thing but I'm hoping to be as frugal as practical in the build phase. I won't cut corners but I'm not going to take food off the table to build the bike either.

Moving forward.. .. in my mind🤣😂

[dragracer]

I don't think Shop Dog likes this design. She refused to be included in the picture.  I told her to come up with a better plan and she walked away😅🤣.

All I could tell her is I'm working on plans to dress this iteration up to make it more presentable so just stand-by.

[dusterdude]

I like it

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[dragracer]

Still picking at this potential project. I threw a spare F model tank on it and strapped an aftermarket CB1100F fairing up front for a quick look-see. This setup doesn't exactly appeal to me at the moment because it's somewhat similar to my other bikes. I looked around at the few cafe racer sites and spied an aftermarket tank and a small bubble type fairing that flows better than this mockup. Both parts were inexpensive and totally less than $140 with shipping. I pulled the trigger and ordered the pieces last night. I'm now on the hunt for sidecovers, a complete front end and a gold colored aluminum 18" spoke front wheel.

Oh crap, does that mean its no longer a potential project but now a work in progress??? 🤣😂🤪. Yeah, we all knew that was going to happen. 🫣

[denward17]

Can't wait to see the result of your brain storming work :-)

Following for progress........

BTW, Love seeing your posts...

[dusterdude]

You're in it now frank

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[dragracer]

You're in it now frank

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Well my friend, it does seem to have come alive. I'll wait til those new parts arrive to get another version of the rat rod worked out. We've got a few more races to participate in before the season ends so I can't let this unplanned project sidetrack me to much right now. I need to get another front end and wheel on it to set the ride height before I quit. I'll then take it to my welder friend to get some wheelie bars built in the off-season. I'll jump back into it after Xmas or maybe the 1st part of 2026. Its not a priority for me although it would be nice to get it done prior to the beginning of next race season.

[dusterdude]

Excellent

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[Don R]

 Hey Frank, your name came up today, I was talking to Ken at Cyclex about some rods. The ones I asked about were sold but he said he still had some of the ones that you use. He was going to check stock but I haven't heard back yet.

[dragracer]

Hey Frank, your name came up today, I was talking to Ken at Cyclex about some rods. The ones I asked about were sold but he said he still had some of the ones that you use. He was going to check stock but I haven't heard back yet.

I hope i didn't get beat up to much during that conversation. Lol. I owe Kenny a call from over a month ago.

I'm sure he's referring to the 1st generation of his super rods. I have them in the low 10 second mono shock bike with the 72mm(1030cc) top end. I'd certainly recommend them. In my opinion the best bang for the price. Well, maybe I shouldn't say bang in this case because I'm not trying to blow up an engine🤣😂. I'm glad you said he may have more rods stored away somewhere because i may need a set should I pursue a big motor build for this rat rod project. Eventhough the goal is to spend as little money as possible on the overall build, I'd definitely want to at least put together the strongest bottom end as possible without breaking the bank. I'm not comfortable buying high dollar Carillos for a low 10 or maybe high 9 second SOHC. Decent rods and a good balanced crank are all i need. I'll wholeheartedly endorse this product. One day i intend to push these rods to the limit with a healthy boost of nitrous oxide exerting a dose of pressure from the top end.

If you talk to Kenny again soon, ask him to set aside a set of those rods for me!!

[newday777]

Hey Frank, your name came up today, I was talking to Ken at Cyclex about some rods. The ones I asked about were sold but he said he still had some of the ones that you use. He was going to check stock but I haven't heard back yet.

I hope i didn't get beat up to much during that conversation. Lol. I owe Kenny a call from over a month ago.

I'm sure he's referring to the 1st generation of his super rods. I have them in the low 10 second mono shock bike with the 72mm(1030cc) top end. I'd certainly recommend them. In my opinion the best bang for the price. Well, maybe I shouldn't say bang in this case because I'm not trying to blow up an engine🤣😂. I'm glad you said he may have more rods stored away somewhere because i may need a set should I pursue a big motor build for this rat rod project. Eventhough the goal is to spend as little money as possible on the overall build, I'd definitely want to at least put together the strongest bottom end as possible without breaking the bank. I'm not comfortable buying high dollar Carillos for a low 10 or maybe high 9 second SOHC. Decent rods and a good balanced crank are all i need. I'll wholeheartedly endorse this product. One day i intend to push these rods to the limit with a healthy boost of nitrous oxide exerting a dose of pressure from the top end.

If you talk to Kenny again soon, ask him to set aside a set of those rods for me!!

Frank
Are the CycleX Super rods that I have on the right the early  rods you are talking about?
The left set are RC shot peened rods that I also picked up a couple years ago.

[Don R]

  Ken thought you were giving his rods a really good test. I had my heart set on a lightly used set of Carillos with coated green bearings. The problem was they were sold, as are all of the newer design rods. I just want a good rod under the billet cylinder Mike's making, I'm sure the first design rods are fine, especially with my old man riding habits. I didn't get a call back today, so I guess it's my turn to call again.

[dragracer]

Hey Frank, your name came up today, I was talking to Ken at Cyclex about some rods. The ones I asked about were sold but he said he still had some of the ones that you use. He was going to check stock but I haven't heard back yet.

I hope i didn't get beat up to much during that conversation. Lol. I owe Kenny a call from over a month ago.

I'm sure he's referring to the 1st generation of his super rods. I have them in the low 10 second mono shock bike with the 72mm(1030cc) top end. I'd certainly recommend them. In my opinion the best bang for the price. Well, maybe I shouldn't say bang in this case because I'm not trying to blow up an engine🤣😂. I'm glad you said he may have more rods stored away somewhere because i may need a set should I pursue a big motor build for this rat rod project. Eventhough the goal is to spend as little money as possible on the overall build, I'd definitely want to at least put together the strongest bottom end as possible without breaking the bank. I'm not comfortable buying high dollar Carillos for a low 10 or maybe high 9 second SOHC. Decent rods and a good balanced crank are all i need. I'll wholeheartedly endorse this product. One day i intend to push these rods to the limit with a healthy boost of nitrous oxide exerting a dose of pressure from the top end.

If you talk to Kenny again soon, ask him to set aside a set of those rods for me!!

Frank
Are the CycleX Super rods that I have on the right the early  rods you are talking about?
The left set are RC shot peened rods that I also picked up a couple years ago.

Yes. The rods on the right are the ones I have in my mono shock bike right now. Nothing fancy, but they work. Be sure you have the upgrade ARP rod bolts. I had Kenny to install them for me prior to shipping.

By the way, the RC  rods you have on the left are what's in my F3 motor. I've been racing that bike for the last 30 years with that same part. Regular maintenance is key. I'm way past due for a tear down and new bearings in that 1030cc engine.

[dragracer]

  Ken thought you were giving his rods a really good test. I had my heart set on a lightly used set of Carillos with coated green bearings. The problem was they were sold, as are all of the newer design rods. I just want a good rod under the billet cylinder Mike's making, I'm sure the first design rods are fine, especially with my old man riding habits. I didn't get a call back today, so I guess it's my turn to call again.

Those rods should hold anything I'd ever throw at them. Its important to keep an idea on bearing wear and freshen up the complete engine regularly for longevity. Of course you know that from racing your comp dragster. I'm hoping Kenny has several sets of those rods left so both you and I can snag a pair. While I'd love to have a set of Carillos, I don't believe I'll ever build an engine powerful enough to exceed the strength of the CycleX  rods. A fully balanced rotating assembly is  the main key to longevity.

[Don R]

 Ken said he could take care of what you need when you are ready, I called dibbs on a set of the original CycleX rods. He checked the big ends on them to be sure they were up to his tolerances. I'm calling tomorrow to talk about working on the cases.

[dragracer]

Ken said he could take care of what you need when you are ready, I called dibbs on a set of the original CycleX rods. He checked the big ends on them to be sure they were up to his tolerances. I'm calling tomorrow to talk about working on the cases.

Thanks for letting him know. I'll contact him soon. Right now I just want to focus on the chassis setup. I've got to get my hands on a complete front end and a stock front wheel/axle. I'll have to locate an 18" aluminum rim band and spokes for it also. I hope Kenny still has some n.o.s. laying around.  I don't see wheels or forks listed on his site anymore. I could install a set of PM Chicanes or something equivalent but the old school spoke are what I'd prefer on this build just to retain the nostalgia theme.

[dragracer]

The new steel  tank and small cafe fairing arrived via FedEx  today. I did a quick mock up to see how the lines flowed. I kind of like the slimmer tank but it doesn't fit perfectly in the rear as it more narrow than the frame- I can live with it though. A big problem is the location of the petcock bung. It falls exactly in line with the daggum frame rail. I've got several ideas on how to get around that issue. One entails relocating the bung to the rear of the tank . The other is to modify that frame rail inward in that spot since I'll be putting in a removable kit anyway. Last resort is to go old school and just cut the rails out completely. Definitely not my preference for a dragbike. 

The cheap little café fairing had some brackets included so I drilled holes in the headlight ears just to see how it might fit. I didn't like the forward position so I'll probably trim the lower part of the fairing so I can move it back towards the handle bars about 3-4 ". Unfortunately trimming that much away will remove the lower area where the fairing bracket bolts up. No harm there really because i can always drill new holes, cut the provided bracket in half and find a new spot to bolt it onto the headlight ears. I'll fabricate a lexan plate and mold it into the headlight opening then get a headlight decal from Summit Racing and stick it onto the lexan to mimic a sealed beam light.

One of my dilemmas will be the fork length. As you can see, the tube i about 5-6"above the triple tree now. I had to slide them up to get my preferred ride height. Even by internally lowering the forks, I likely won't be able to achieve a minus 6" length difference without loosing all travel. Rigid is not good. The last build i did on the mono shock bike required a short fork tube as well. Kenny at Cyclex accommodated me by custom making a set of fork tubes to my specs. Hopefully I can lean on him to help me out again. I won't be using this front end or wheel anyway. I'm on the hunt for a complete replacement set up with lowers, tube and triple trees with an axle and possibly spacers. I want to put a single disc spoke wheel on the bike with an aluminum ban. To get my body positioned correctly, the handle bars will need to be in front of the forks. I'm going to weld up a set myself for now and then get a chassis builder to use it as an example for a professionally built set. I'm not a trained welder but can do just enough to get myself in lots of trouble. Lol.

This weekend coming I may move forward with the fiberglass work for the tail piece. I ordered the release agents but need to get some fresh resin and hardener along with fiberglass matting or mesh.

I'm going to slowly move this project forward.

[dragracer]

Its going to be ugly. Don't let it hurt your eyes to much. Haha. 

I'm not going to spend much time on bling with this one. I need function on a tight budget.

[dragracer]

The fairing definitely needs to be moved back closer to the handle bars.

[dragracer]

I hope that fairing eventually grows on me. Its going to be used regardless 😝🤪

[dusterdude]

Looks good frank

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[dragracer]

Looks good frank

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Mark.
It's just a crazy project with very little rhyme or reason.

Hopefully I can eventually dress this pig up with some lip stick when I'm done. Hahaha 😆

Motorcycle rich and cash poor.

[dusterdude]

Thats a never ending condition

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