Topic: Multiple issues and looking for advice

[piefairy]

I’d run it on the 4 quarts until it has truly warmed up. They are easy to overfilland you’re probably closer than you think.

I've run it intermittently on whats in there for 5 or so minutes. I cant see any oil in the tank. It sat with the stator and transmission cover off overnight while waiting on gaskets, so I imagine its pretty well empty. I'll check it again after its sat overnight before I add more. Just concerns me that the dipstick comes out with nothing on it.

[BenelliSEI]

Are you saying you put 4 quarts in the tank and it’s all in the engine now? There is an anti drain valve in the oil pump that’s suppose to prevent that.

[MauiK3]

Mine has started to slowly drain back, I need to fix that at some point. It of course comes right back up when started.

[piefairy]

Are you saying you put 4 quarts in the tank and it’s all in the engine now? There is an anti drain valve in the oil pump that’s suppose to prevent that.

It was in the tank until I ran it for a bit, now it's not. I checked it this morning and its still pretty much empty. I remember having to add oil to it in the past to get it to the checkered marks, but I assumed that was from leaking a bit of oil. I checked the oil container and there is still about a quart and a half left of its 5 quarts, so that puts somewhere around 3 1/2 quarts in the engine. Is it safe to run it? Where is the anti drain valve and how hard is it to change?

[BenelliSEI]

The valve is part of the oil pump. The pump is accessible through the bottom pan. Assuming your pump is working, it should come back to the tank when you start it up……

[piefairy]

The valve is part of the oil pump. The pump is accessible through the bottom pan. Assuming your pump is working, it should come back to the tank when you start it up……

I believe it is working. It builds pressure in the tank when running, you can hear a little hiss from it. I added a bit more oil, now there is some that remains in the tank even after running. Its up 1/8th the way up the checkering. I figured out part of the running issues, cylinder 4 wasn't hooked up after I changed the plugs. I'm letting the battery charge up and I will tinker with it more. I also figure the fuel needs to settle out of that cylinder as well.

[piefairy]

Its running with the choke on and giving it a little throttle, but as soon as you cut off the choke it dies. It won't idle with the choke on either. I'm going to play with the idle air screws.

[BenelliSEI]

Its running with the choke on and giving it a little throttle, but as soon as you cut off the choke it dies. It won't idle with the choke on either. I'm going to play with the idle air screws.

That’s usually a sign your idle jets are plugged.

[piefairy]

Its running with the choke on and giving it a little throttle, but as soon as you cut off the choke it dies. It won't idle with the choke on either. I'm going to play with the idle air screws.

That’s usually a sign your idle jets are plugged.

Figured it would be something in the carbs, the one thing I don't want to mess with.

[BenelliSEI]

Did you drain out the gas blend you had and put 100% fresh gas in? No point in chasing anything else until the old stuff is 100% out.

[piefairy]

Did you drain out the gas blend you had and put 100% fresh gas in? No point in chasing anything else until the old stuff is 100% out.

Yea, I have a drip line of fresh gas going in. How much gravity pressure does the fuel line need? There is a droop in my drip line that drops below the carbs. I raise it up when trying to run it but not sure if a constant pressure is needed.

[spotty]

Did you drain out the gas blend you had and put 100% fresh gas in? No point in chasing anything else until the old stuff is 100% out.

Yea, I have a drip line of fresh gas going in. How much gravity pressure does the fuel line need? There is a droop in my drip line that drops below the carbs. I raise it up when trying to run it but not sure if a constant pressure is needed.

in theory as long as the bottle is above the carbs it should gravity feed

[piefairy]

Carbs have been rebuilt but I don't seem to be getting any spark. Could something being loose on the stator or field coil wire cause this?

[Don R]

 No, the dyno on a Honda charges the battery rather than feed the ignition directly. If it has 12.5 or so volts it should make a spark.
 If the plugs got wet with bad gas they might need to dry out before they will work. You might as well get used to cleaning the carbs, todays gas plugs the pilots whenever a bike sits for a while.

[piefairy]

Well that's good news, I don't have to open up the case again. I must have a wire wrong on the M-unit.

[HondaMan]

Also maybe check the Black/White wire from the RUN-OFF switch: inside the headlight it plugs into the Black/White that goes to the coils. A Black wire should run to that switch.

[piefairy]

Also maybe check the Black/White wire from the RUN-OFF switch: inside the headlight it plugs into the Black/White that goes to the coils. A Black wire should run to that switch.

unfortunately the wiring for this bike was butchered when I got it. I re-made the wiring harness based around an M-unit blue and M buttons. So electrically, I only have my memory to rely on and a few labels on the lines in the headlight... which isn't good. I only labeled the input signals to the M-unit, never the outputs. Its gotta be something simple, kinda hard to screw up M-unit wiring.

[piefairy]

Ok, its up an running again. Chasing a minor oil leak. Its idling, but at around 500-650 rpm. It sounds like its always about to stall at idle. Its a fresh carb rebuild. Should I just go after the idle adjust screw an bump it up a bit? Is that a clockwise our counterclockwise turn? From what I've read idle should be closer to 1k?

Thanks

[Ozzybud]

Ok, its up an running again. Chasing a minor oil leak. Its idling, but at around 500-650 rpm. It sounds like its always about to stall at idle. Its a fresh carb rebuild. Should I just go after the idle adjust screw an bump it up a bit? Is that a clockwise our counterclockwise turn? From what I've read idle should be closer to 1k?

Thanks

The factory setting is 11-1200. Turn the idle screw CW. Warm it up and vacuum sync the carbs. That's the most important step in proper tuning.

[piefairy]

Thanks. She is idling happily at about 1200 rpm. Starts on the first press too.

[piefairy]

How much oil should I have in the master cylinder? I have it to where it reaches the new diaphragm but I feel like there should be more. The bike has been reverse-bled, and the breaks are firm. Just not sure how much "extra" oil I should have in there.

Thanks

[HondaMan]

If it reaches the diaphragm, it's golden. If you go deeper it can slowly weep out via the threads of the lid, at which point it removes paint on the master cylinder. That's why you see some in that condition.

When the brake pads' linings have worn down to metal again, there will be about 3-4mm of brake fluid left in the master cylinder, if you filled it to just touch the bottom of the bladder when new. Thus, it never runs out of fluid to do the job.

[piefairy]

THX Hondaman.