Author Topic: The CB550 that came in from the cold  (Read 7934 times)

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Offline ThelassianLupus

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The CB550 that came in from the cold
« on: November 23, 2025, 03:25:57 PM »
New thread because I abandoned the old one.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,205185.msg2317532.html#msg2317532

And I have a greater scope of projects to tackle on this 1975 CB550, because I'm no longer wrenching in my driveway under a tent.

Offline denward17

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2025, 04:58:22 PM »
Following for progress....

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2025, 05:30:36 PM »
Addressing some things that were left unfinished since the last topic.
1) I'm sanding the gas tank down to bare metal and treating rust spots to prepare to repaint.
2) The brake caliper worked fine this summer, I got out to ride some but not a ton. I know I'll come back around on replacing the pads and seal eventually.

Now onto the new stuff. On the occasional ride I began to notice what I think is the clutch slipping. After the bike had been running a bit and I was making my way through a neighborhood with a lot of stop signs, I would shift up from first gear into second and hear a series of clacking noises. It felt like the shift wouldn't really take, for the first two seconds the power was feeling sluggish until something clunked into place and I really got going in second gear. Shifting up from there at higher speeds felt mostly fine.

So when I got my new garage space to work in, I decided the first thing to look into was the clutch. I have a copy of HondaMan's CB500/550 book and it's a terrific guide, I've studied what Mark wrote about the 550 clutch and used it to inform my own repairs. What I have done is this. I looked at my friction plates and with a digital caliper, determined that they were 2.8mm thick. I assumed this meant the plates were swapped out at some point, although strangely with new ones that were neither 2.71mm nor 3.2mm. Nonetheless, I have decided to try the remedy from the book of installing three CB750 friction plates at the front of the stack. Now I'd like to try and run this clutch to see if anything has changed.
But I have three questions to answer first.

Number One.
Are these the wrong springs? Assuming my clutch plates were replaced, it would seem likely that the springs were swapped too. And they certainly look to be bigger.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2025, 05:36:06 PM by ThelassianLupus »

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2025, 05:39:08 PM »
Number Two.
When assembled, the clutch basket has some weird play to it. I'm not missing a spacer shim, but could the one I have be too thin? Is this normal?
https://imgur.com/BsnSwtC
« Last Edit: November 23, 2025, 05:47:26 PM by ThelassianLupus »

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2025, 06:01:05 PM »
And Third.
It would seem that on top of everything, the clutch lifter on the crankcase cover does not align where it should when I turn the adjuster screw. It's engaging with the lifter arm much too late. Discovering that today made me retrace my steps to make sure there isn't something I forgot in the clutch rebuild, (and to see what the pool of knowledge on this forum has to say about it).

My plan next time is to measure the plate stack again and see if I was off at all. I've also got to get a space heater for this little storage room, as the winter nights are getting colder and more punctual by the day.

Thanks for reading, I'll be back with updates.

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2025, 10:23:01 AM »

How I started sanding the tank, and how it's going now.
« Last Edit: November 26, 2025, 10:33:23 AM by ThelassianLupus »

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2025, 10:38:34 AM »
Here's some of that rust damage I had found back in the spring.

Here's what it looks like underneath the paint and treated with phosphoric acid.

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2025, 10:41:28 AM »
If anyone who has repainted their tank could chime in, I'd love to know how to strip the paint under the badge clips. Maybe some chemical strip?


Offline denward17

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2025, 11:19:09 AM »
I think I used a chemical paint stripper, but also used a small pick to scrap out the old paint.

Offline Mark1976

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #9 on: November 26, 2025, 01:00:32 PM »
   As Den mentioned above, you can use a stripper and a pick, I just use a small wire wheel on a hand held grinder, do the best you can do and wipe it down good. I'd be a little more concerned with that corrosion on the side, that looks to be some serious pitting going on there. Maybe a little bit too much .... How do you plan on addressing that?
« Last Edit: November 28, 2025, 02:04:58 PM by Mark1976 »
Start with the end in mind...

Offline Gary in NJ

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #10 on: November 27, 2025, 05:12:22 AM »
I would fill a shallow bowl with a rust conversion product (Evaporust or phosphoric acid) and let it sit in the solution until the rust is consumed.
‘76 CB550F Super Sport
Also in the garage; ‘98 Ducati ST2, ‘05 Yamaha FZ6N, ‘81 CB900, LS650 based Cafe Racer, DRZ400 based Street Tracker
Currently restoring the CB550F

Offline carnivorous chicken

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #11 on: November 27, 2025, 05:53:46 AM »
I'd be worried about the rust at the seams as well, especially if you are going to fork out money for a nice paint job. Hate to do that and then have pinholes break out and ruin the paint. Lining with something good (not Kreem, but POR15, Redkote, or Caswell) is an option if it's a concern.

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #12 on: November 28, 2025, 01:09:01 PM »
I plan to paint the tank myself, with rattle cans. What if I want to try my hand at soldering to repair the corrosion damage? Is this a good application for a soldering or brazing technique? The inside of my tank looks pretty good from what I can see. Should I be concerned that rust is opening holes from both sides of the metal?

Offline Mark1976

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #13 on: November 28, 2025, 02:03:52 PM »
I plan to paint the tank myself, with rattle cans. What if I want to try my hand at soldering to repair the corrosion damage? Is this a good application for a soldering or brazing technique? The inside of my tank looks pretty good from what I can see. Should I be concerned that rust is opening holes from both sides of the metal?
   In order to drop a little lead into the pin holes ya have to ding them down a smidge. Then fill the low spot, its not something I'd do without first brazing the hole closed then dropping on a bit of lead after. None of that works very well until all the corrosion is completely removed, the brass nor will the lead (solder in your instance) will adhere at all until thats done. That spot on the side of the tank is deeply corroded, by the time you get done cleaning it back it'll be paper thin if your lucky. Look for another tank, easier, cheaper, quicker and better result.
   
Start with the end in mind...

Offline rb550four

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #14 on: November 30, 2025, 01:06:07 PM »
  Anytime I have an old tank that I'm about to sand ,have brazed , or anything, I would sniff it first , if it smells flammable run an extention  pipe off the running car into the tank  let it run for 5 mins at a time  3 or 4 times for good measure to kill those fumes, do whatever it is that you decide to do for the repair . I use paint thinner to test the repair and clean out the exhaust carbon ( if you test it with water it'll rust), drain it let it dry completely and seal the entire inside of the tank , THEN do the pretty stuff to the outside of the tank  after the tank seal is completely dry. Safety first.   
A few Honda 500's, a few Honda 550's, a few Honda 650's, '72 cb 450, a couple 500/550/650 hybrids, and 2001 750. 
  550 Snowbike -Somebody had to do it.
  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,101678.0.html             
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137317.msg1550907.html#msg1550907

Offline HondaMan

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #15 on: November 30, 2025, 03:31:23 PM »
Addressing some things that were left unfinished since the last topic.
1) I'm sanding the gas tank down to bare metal and treating rust spots to prepare to repaint.
2) The brake caliper worked fine this summer, I got out to ride some but not a ton. I know I'll come back around on replacing the pads and seal eventually.

Now onto the new stuff. On the occasional ride I began to notice what I think is the clutch slipping. After the bike had been running a bit and I was making my way through a neighborhood with a lot of stop signs, I would shift up from first gear into second and hear a series of clacking noises. It felt like the shift wouldn't really take, for the first two seconds the power was feeling sluggish until something clunked into place and I really got going in second gear. Shifting up from there at higher speeds felt mostly fine.

So when I got my new garage space to work in, I decided the first thing to look into was the clutch. I have a copy of HondaMan's CB500/550 book and it's a terrific guide, I've studied what Mark wrote about the 550 clutch and used it to inform my own repairs. What I have done is this. I looked at my friction plates and with a digital caliper, determined that they were 2.8mm thick. I assumed this meant the plates were swapped out at some point, although strangely with new ones that were neither 2.71mm nor 3.2mm. Nonetheless, I have decided to try the remedy from the book of installing three CB750 friction plates at the front of the stack. Now I'd like to try and run this clutch to see if anything has changed.
But I have three questions to answer first.

Number One.
Are these the wrong springs? Assuming my clutch plates were replaced, it would seem likely that the springs were swapped too. And they certainly look to be bigger.

First, I'll mention about the clutch plates you have: the 2.8mm thick plates are the ones Vesrah (i.e., generic imported plates) is lately selling in place of Honda's 2.71mm thick versions. In that regard, they should work OK.

The 'clack' noise is not likely from the clutch, but may be coming from not-quite-engaged gear dogs and slots in the transmission. In this engine (and the 350F) this can happen during the 1-N-2 shift if the clutch didn't fully disengage and/or was 'dropped' too soon on top of the shift, before the gears had fully slid into position - this stops the sideways-slide of the gear(s) into their mates a little bit early, causing a less-than-full engagement. Oil drag, when the engine is cold, can increase this symptom, and it shows its head then if the more fully warmed-up engine shifts better.

More rarely (in this engine), if the dogs on the sliding gear are worn down, or its shift fork is bent a little bit, the gear with the dogs on it won't move far enough to fully engage the slotted gear (this can happen on any of the 3 such "pairs" of gears in this gearbox) with the result that it may rattle as those dogs are trying to find the slots until they do engage. That's what makes the noise.

In some cases, this just means the shift wasn't fully completed. This can come from several things, like:
1. the shifter arm being mislocated (on the wrong splines) as noted above, so your toe can't lift it far enough to firmly shift the gear during upshift, or
2. the little pins on the end of the gearshift drum are loose because the bolt/screw holding the top plate down isn't tight (this is more common on some of the CB750 engines, like the K5-6 versions with poorly-staked top plate screws on the shifter drums), or
3. a bent shifter fork inside the gearbox. (This isn't common on the Mid-Fours, though, but is quite common in the 750s) or lastly,
4. the gear dogs are worn and rounded, so they don't engage with a crisp edge into the mating slotted gear. (Again, this is more common in the CB750 than in these engines, but I have seen it in all of the SOHC4 before the CB650). This one happens in high-mileage (500/550) transmissions, like more than 25k miles.

When the engine is cold, the poor-dog-engagement situation may be different from when hot because the width of the 500/550 engine increases the slack between the gears on their shafts by about 0.5-0.7mm with temperature. Thus, the worn-dog-and-slot situation can get worse with heat, better when cold. This might help with diagnosing which 'bug' is annoying yours?
See SOHC4shop.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book
Link to My CB500/CB550 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?sortBy=RELEVANCE&page=1&q=my+cb550+book&pageSize=10&adult_audience_rating=00
Link to website: https://sohc4shop.com/  (Note: no longer at www.SOHC4shop.com, moved off WWW. in 2024).

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #16 on: December 05, 2025, 04:06:31 PM »
Just a quick update: Found out why the clutch lifter wasn't working.


Fixed it  :P

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #17 on: December 05, 2025, 04:21:35 PM »
Thank you to rb550four, and HondaMan for the tips.
I'm not convinced that my gas tank is ruined beyond repair yet. But I'll strip more of the paint and see.
The noise I hear when shifting would indicate the incomplete shift being the culprit, I just got lighter springs so I'm going to see what I can do on the clutch side of things. The other probable source (HM) mentioned could be worn dogs as this bike does have 30k+ miles on it. I'm glad to know what I can look for when I do take apart the engine, someday.

« Last Edit: December 08, 2025, 09:45:57 AM by ThelassianLupus »

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #18 on: December 29, 2025, 09:01:32 AM »
I was given a surprise day off work due to weather. The urge to tinker was strong so here I am indulging in a day of carburetor rebuilding, when a nagging feeling gets to me. So much of my bike is in good working condition. I'm mostly taking things apart just to satisfy my curiosity to know how each system works. It's great fun but the question I keep asking myself is, why is everything so damn dirty? Why don't I know how to clean this stuff? There's only so much I can chalk up to a "vintage patina". But c'mon, just because the bike is 50 years old doesn't mean it should look like it's never had a shower within the last half century.

I don't see an FAQ topic for this so my plea goes out to the fine folks of this forum. What are your cleaning tips? How clean do you like to get each piece you work with? If a parts washer isn't available, what do you use? What's going to help protect against corrosion best for aluminum or steel? I'll keep doing my own research, but I'd be very appreciative if anyone cares to elaborate on their methods here.

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #19 on: December 29, 2025, 09:18:41 AM »
I'm really just curious about general purpose stuff. And what can be reasonably done by hand with a bucket, brush, and some rags. These are some of the chemicals I have on hand, but I also have power tools such as an angle grinder, drill, and dremel that can all be fitted with wire wheels, or scotchbright. If I want to preserve the functional integrity of every piece, make them cleaner to handle and work with, and just improve the overall visual finish quality of the machine. What are some things I should make a habit of doing as I go?
Thank you for taking time to read and I look forward to reading replies.

Offline denward17

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #20 on: December 29, 2025, 09:30:08 AM »
Easier if engine is out obviously.......

My carbs were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner, but if I didn't have it, I would soak them in a 5 gallon container filled with a mixture of Dawn/water and Simple Green Aircraft cleaner (safer for aluminum).  After soaking scrub the outside of carb bodies with cleaning brushes.

I also used a mixture of same above in a spray bottle to clean engine cases, then sanded, cleaned everything good with brake cleaner or carb cleaner and shot paint.

If rebuilding carbs, soak all the brass in carb cleaner.

These are the brushes I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074YXCLBP?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Offline ThelassianLupus

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #21 on: December 29, 2025, 10:04:27 AM »
I like the look of those brushes! Thanks Denward, would you say that degreaser/simple green blend is safe for most areas of the bike?

Offline HondaMan

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #22 on: December 29, 2025, 11:45:40 AM »
I use lacquer thinner (in a small pill bottle) and Q-Tips for cleaning carbs. I also use "brake cleaner" spray if I don't want to take the slides out of the carbs for cleaning: many times they already work well, and 1 can of the spray is enough to clean all 4 slides in the 500/550 carb sets. The jets (on those bikes that don't run, sat too long) have to be removed to clean them, though.

This method precludes the nasty disassembly of these types of carbs. The 350F and 400F are similar, and even more cranky to disassemble and clean.

P.S.: wear glasses when spraying this stuff: I wear a face shield, which is usually quite clean by the end of the can. ;)
« Last Edit: December 29, 2025, 12:01:34 PM by HondaMan »
See SOHC4shop.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book
Link to My CB500/CB550 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?sortBy=RELEVANCE&page=1&q=my+cb550+book&pageSize=10&adult_audience_rating=00
Link to website: https://sohc4shop.com/  (Note: no longer at www.SOHC4shop.com, moved off WWW. in 2024).

Offline denward17

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #23 on: December 29, 2025, 11:47:40 AM »
I like the look of those brushes! Thanks Denward, would you say that degreaser/simple green blend is safe for most areas of the bike?

yes, it should be...

Offline rb550four

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Re: The CB550 that came in from the cold
« Reply #24 on: December 29, 2025, 12:01:46 PM »
  Over the last 10 years there has been much discussion about  carb cleaning that should  come up  on Search ...3rd prompt over beneath your avatar at the top of the page ...2 to the right of the home button, will give you at least 4 pages of information from others that from this forum  type in   carb cleaning.
  I like using paint thinner ( not lacquer thinner  , too powerful for me. ) on everything that has oil , grease, dirty grease in clutch parts , neck bearings , overall initial cleaning before the pressure nozzle at the local car wash and exterior engine parts before breaking it down. That way  you don't infect the rest of the engine with dirt . I use similar brushes  as shown here.
 The first thing to remember if you are splitting the rack is  the felt washers  that are at the top of the rack that you will remove while separating  the 4 carbs from the rack....Don"t Clean Them  or Stretch Them! Really hard to find replacements or you 'll be making them.  Next thing is the brass , if you have factory brass and it cleans up well use that instead of the new ones that are unreliable in rebuild kits .  Always check how each needle is set before you remove them. Replace washers that feed fuel to each carb so you don't have to do it after they are in and leaking, Set your floats exactly the same on all carbs . Easier to bench sync carbs first then dial them in with vacume gauges. Always get 4 entire sets of rebuild kits from a reputable source. Oh , use a hair dryer on the rubber manifold  connectors when removing them and replacing them. lube  your cables if not replacing them , check for ware.you can look up any of this stuf on search.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2025, 12:21:55 PM by rb550four »
A few Honda 500's, a few Honda 550's, a few Honda 650's, '72 cb 450, a couple 500/550/650 hybrids, and 2001 750. 
  550 Snowbike -Somebody had to do it.
  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,101678.0.html             
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137317.msg1550907.html#msg1550907