Author Topic: Metal Coil around front brake line - useful purpose or aftermarket for show?  (Read 484 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline kyle750

  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 1,208
Visit Apexbrakes.com for full details.

Thanks Mate.  I really like Apex brakes ordering system.  It will be a while until I can upgrade the brake lines.    I'm trying to focus on getting the bike on the road first and upgrades later. 

Offline PeWe

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 16,293
  • Bike almost back to the 70's 2015
No one asked but...
A lot of folks don't care for a dual disc setup. Yes it adds weight.
I put one on because it looks great, harkens back to Dick Mann and Daytona 500, and also feels great when stopping. Your lever feel (with a stock MC) is a bit better, not so wooden. Caliper alignment is key to a good setup, took me a few tries. Makes removing the front tire a little more difficult but not bad.
Yamiya has all of it. I sent my rotors to TruDisk for drilling (and surfacing), looks good, sheds water better, saves a tiny bit of weight.
Then you get a brake that works.
My K6 has dual stock front brakes, new rotors from DSS.
Stops fine after 160kmh

My K2 has single, also new rotor. Plan the ride, do not try to use brake after 100kmh to avoid accident. Use the throttle and steer.... ;D
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline carnivorous chicken

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 2,141
A quick question for the Honda community.  Both my CB750 and CB550 are missing the damper plate to the underside of the master cylinder. Basically the brake lever bolt goes through this plate with a rubber plug to the other side and bolts to the underside.  I can see how this would help with vibration and make the brake operation a little smoother.

Is is neccessary to have this part?

Second the not necessary. A lot of bikes I've gone through have the cap and screw but the rubber has deteriorated. Super simple to just use a little piece of rubber gasket material to approximate the original and stop the brake lever from rattling.

Offline BenelliSEI

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 11,697
  • 1969 cb750
Visit Apexbrakes.com for full details.

Thanks Mate.  I really like Apex brakes ordering system.  It will be a while until I can upgrade the brake lines.    I'm trying to focus on getting the bike on the road first and upgrades later.

Kyle….. when I order from them, I usually lay out the line on a clean piece of cardboard. Use a marker to indicate the length and make sure the picture clearly shows the ends. Include the make, year and model. They have enough experience that is all the info they need. Take that picture now (while you have it apart) so you have it later.

Offline Don R

  • My Sandcast is a
  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 21,478
  • Saver of unloved motorcycles.
 I ordered brake hoses from an ebay seller for my GL1000, all three hoses had springs. I asked if they were needed and the reply was the manufacturer put them on by accident, I could remove any springs that I didn't want to leave in place. They are tricky to get started but then they unwind rather easily.
No matter how many times you paint over a shadow, it's still there.
 CEO at the no kill motorcycle shop.
 You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.

Offline kyle750

  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 1,208


Second the not necessary. A lot of bikes I've gone through have the cap and screw but the rubber has deteriorated. Super simple to just use a little piece of rubber gasket material to approximate the original and stop the brake lever from rattling.

I really like your idea of just stuffing a new piece of rubber in the hole. Plate might help keep the rubber in place but will probably work OK without it.  Often the simpliest and easiest solution is the best.  Thank You Sir!
« Last Edit: December 12, 2025, 04:02:25 PM by kyle750 »

Offline Kelly E

  • Geriatric Hooligan
  • Old Timer
  • ******
  • Posts: 2,731


Second the not necessary. A lot of bikes I've gone through have the cap and screw but the rubber has deteriorated. Super simple to just use a little piece of rubber gasket material to approximate the original and stop the brake lever from rattling.

I really like your idea of just stuffing a new piece of rubber in the hole. Plate might help keep the rubber in place but will probably work OK without it.  Often the simpliest and easiest solution is the best.  Thank You Sir!

I cut a chunk off of a proper diameter o-ring to fix that.
Never Give Up - Never Surrender

The Rust Bros. Garage Collection
1974 Honda CB 550 K0                                            1971 MGB/GT
1975 Honda CB 400F Super Sport                          1972 MGB/GT
1977 Kawasaki KZ 1000 LTD                                   1985 GMC S15
1978 Kawasaki KL 250
1980 Suzuki GS 1100E
1983 Honda CB 1100F
1984 Honda VF 700S Sabre
1984 Honda VF 1000F Interceptor
1990 Moto Guzzi 1000 Le Mans
1994 Kawasaki Concours ZG 1000A9
2005 Harley Davidson Fat Boy

Offline BenelliSEI

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 11,697
  • 1969 cb750


Second the not necessary. A lot of bikes I've gone through have the cap and screw but the rubber has deteriorated. Super simple to just use a little piece of rubber gasket material to approximate the original and stop the brake lever from rattling.

I really like your idea of just stuffing a new piece of rubber in the hole. Plate might help keep the rubber in place but will probably work OK without it.  Often the simpliest and easiest solution is the best.  Thank You Sir!

I cut a chunk off of a proper diameter o-ring to fix that.

That’s what I use!