Topic: HELP! Lost my main bearing bolts!

[Kamal]

Hello All,

I have managed to lose the M8 120mm and 140mm bolts that hold the mains together on my CB750 race motor.  In fact, I can't clearance and order those main bearings till I find some suitable bolts! 

Does anybody have a used set they would sell me?  I'd be happy to paypal or send a money order.

Thanks!

Kamal

[MRieck]

 I'm just about to split the cases on Sparty's engine. I'll be installing studs so he won't be needing the bolts. You can PM him and if he doesn't want them I can ship them to you early this week.
   Mike

[scondon]

I have managed to lose the M8 120mm and 140mm bolts that hold the mains together on my CB750 race motor. In fact, I can't clearance and order those main bearings till I find some suitable bolts!

   Are you talkin' about the 10 bolts that hold the cases together at the crank?  I've got a "practice" motor in pieces that I won't be using, lots of bolts

I'm just about to split the cases on Sparty's engine. I'll be installing studs so he won't be needing the bolts.

What the....?   How do ya....?   Why would ya.....?            More precise torque on the bearings

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

If you don't take Mike up on his offer you might want to consider studs on your race engine also. The studs have larger diameter shafts which will allow more torque without stretch to keep everything tighter. When I disassembled the stock 750 engine I'm building into a 1080 and which Mike just did the head for (insert cheap plug here) I discovered one of the main bolts was very loose. This would have been a disaster had it backed out. Buzz at Dynoman.net has these studs made exclusively for him by Big Jay at APE. Yes, I'm name dropping but no way in hell would I do this if any of these 3 guys were not top echelon.   

[Kamal]

Hey there,


Thanks for the offers.....

Has anyone used stainless hex heads (allens) on the mains?  The torque spec for the stock bolts is only 16-18 ft/lbs, so I was wondering if pretty new stainless bolts would work.

I did not know that studs were available for holding the cases together.  I already have studs for the cylinder. This is a race motor, but I doubt Ill be doing much more than a few drags with it for fun.

I'll look at the Dynoman site, and Sean, I may take you up...since you are local.

Kamal

[scondon]

You're welcome by anytime, Kamal   I'm in North Oakland, near 51st and Broadway.

[Kamal]

Hey Sean,

Thanks!  Ill try to get over there soon so we can catch up a bit!

BTW, I never left the bay area....I just had put down all projects for a few years after a small crash on my CB where some guy didn't see me, and ran me down trying to cross my lane to get into the gas station. What an ass!

So, that shook me up a bit...but before long (3 years) I got myself another dirt bike, then eased back into sunday rides on the street.  I still rarely ride street, but the prospect of a powerful drag bike was enough to prompt me to get back on the restoration train!

Lets chat soon!

Kamal

San Mateo

510-701-5408

malgyver@yahoo.com

[MRieck]

I have managed to lose the M8 120mm and 140mm bolts that hold the mains together on my CB750 race motor. In fact, I can't clearance and order those main bearings till I find some suitable bolts!

   Are you talkin' about the 10 bolts that hold the cases together at the crank?  I've got a "practice" motor in pieces that I won't be using, lots of bolts

I'm just about to split the cases on Sparty's engine. I'll be installing studs so he won't be needing the bolts.

What the....?   How do ya....?   Why would ya.....?            More precise torque on the bearings

The nuts torque to 22 to 24 lbs. Better clamping Sean AND no wear on the case threads. Studs in general rule.

[Big Jay]

If you don't take Mike up on his offer you might want to consider studs on your race engine also. The studs have larger diameter shafts which will allow more torque without stretch to keep everything tighter. When I disassembled the stock 750 engine I'm building into a 1080 and which Mike just did the head for (insert cheap plug here) I discovered one of the main bolts was very loose. This would have been a disaster had it backed out. Buzz at Dynoman.net has these studs made exclusively for him by Big Jay at APE. Yes, I'm name dropping but no way in hell would I do this if any of these 3 guys were not top echelon.   

And he will have a brand new batch of them on their way to him this week.

Jay

[MRieck]

If you don't take Mike up on his offer you might want to consider studs on your race engine also. The studs have larger diameter shafts which will allow more torque without stretch to keep everything tighter. When I disassembled the stock 750 engine I'm building into a 1080 and which Mike just did the head for (insert cheap plug here) I discovered one of the main bolts was very loose. This would have been a disaster had it backed out. Buzz at Dynoman.net has these studs made exclusively for him by Big Jay at APE. Yes, I'm name dropping but no way in hell would I do this if any of these 3 guys were not top echelon.   

And he will have a brand new batch of them on their way to him this week.

Jay

Nice. I'm going to get a set to have on hand.

[Kamal]

Hello All,

Well, those ARP studs from Dynoman are a whopping $90.  Considering I am replacing my bearings and cam chain as "cheap" insurance, I think the cheap insurance of main studs is a bit luxurious.

Sean....if your offer stands, Ill buy those bolts from you....8 are 120mm and 2 are the 140mm.  Maybe we can swap...are there any parts you need?

Kamal

[scondon]

Kamal, I still owe ya for helping me 5 years back. If you can't make it to Oakland, just PM me with your address and I can send them to you.

    Swapping is always fun(not for the bolts, they're yours). I've got a garage full of odds and ends.