Topic: OMG an oil thread!!

[grcamna2]

You were a truck driver Kelly?

Yep, one of several careers I had. Truck driver, mechanic, cabinet maker, remodel carpenter, electromechanical assembly, cook and Mr Mom. I probably missed a couple.

Kelly,I enjoyed when we spoke about your many truck driving jobs,and a few of the skills you used to deliver loads when it was difficult.

[Tracksnblades1]

PEWE:

Slow down. I’m struggling to keep up with just trying to be average..😜 You’ve piled the homework on me…🤕
I think we’re on the same page. you’ve picked out that high quality and proper viscosity base stocks don’t need a lot of help from additives..⭐️🎯

.I’ve been to several oil seminars and a few in house informational training sessions through the years.. I was very young at the first one. Not a lot has really changed. And as you pointed out, the high quality base stock is the key in the formulation. Poor base stocks are still poor regardless how good the selected additive packages help them..

 For instance the 5w-40, I was taught the ideal base stock would be a 25-30weight depending on where the oil would be sold and used. Then the appropriate additives would be added to make the chosen base stocks flow like a 5w oil when cold and likewise a viscosity modifier to make it act like a 40 weight when hot.. The worst example being the same 5w-40 formulated from a 5weight base stocks and then adding enough viscosity modifiers to make the 5weight act like a 40w when hot. And then sold to the end user for use at the equator….🤢

I’ll read up on the homework you’ve assigned..😁
But I’m thinking your already on the right page…

And to think Detroit Diesels (2 Strokes) knew the viscosity laws way back in the late 30’s..Still recommends Straight 40 weight High Detergent. Nothing else can protect them as good. They do allow straight 30 weight HD when temps permanently dip below freezing. Kinda like the same time frame Aviation engineers knew all about 4valves per cylinder, Nitrous Oxide, EGR (for detonation control only no epa then) superchargers, turbo chargers, water/methanol injection, fuels, octanes, oils, and on and on and on…. And we still argue about this SH*T instead of reading what been published, tried, and proven since the 30’s..

Seems like we’re all quilty of trying to reinvent the wheel when there’s several good ones already..😇
And these guys and gals do this everyday, week after week, month after month, and year after year for 30+ years,
 and we all know what’s best….😏

I used to drive a Detroit Diesel super turbocharged(a turbo bolted to the top of the supercharger) 8V 92 in a 79' Freightliner conventional. That truck was badass. I had to do the oil changes on it. Get the hand truck and wheel out 9 gallons of Chevron Delo 400 15w/40 oil. It was the most fun truck I drove ever.

That’s the big girl for trucks..They have a 20/149 series for the big jobs…😳
I only have a 453 in a 1990 Vermeer T600D track trencher. Bought it with 3.9 hours on it from the USAF..
It came with a foot thick binder of service records..? 3.9 hours..? I don’t know if it was boiler room service records or real ones..?

Any way the following pictures are what I was referring to about the 40weight DD OEM requirements…
Borrowed on line but my manual for the 453 is the same…

[PeWe]

I like to collect real experiences.
A very  long milage stock CB750 on Spectro 20W-50 mineral is one good example.

Trickier to find long time use as 100.000 km with a modified engine, higher compression, hotter cam and high spring pressure. Always a reason to upgrade/repair.

The Porsche forum had info that supported my needs. Flat tappet cams with high spring pressure.

I got thoughts about my 836 setup the K6 got to 1984. The bores wore rather much during ca: 55.000 km. Hard rides on German Autobahn,  4 vacations should have better oil than Castrol GTX2 and similar I suppose.

I have heard about multigrade oils based on very thin oil. Additives increase the viscosity.
Oil will turn back to the thin oil with  bad bearing support

My car has an Audi 1.8 L turbo charged engine.  (Modified program).
A known oil to bitumen/sludge construction. Only 3.7 L oil with big filter.
I have noticed that oil must be changed within 8000km. At 10.000km  oil is much thinner.
0W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic. All not PAO class.
I think Aral Supertronic 0W-40 is a PAO oil.

I have seen motorcycle oils 10W-50 and 15W-50.  I'll stay away from them.

I hope more good experiences can continue to fill this thread.
Bad experience is good info too

[jlh3rd]

I do continuing research by reading, listening, and investigating oil threads.
My new toyota says to use 0W-8...really?....I've been researching that like crazy. Getting through all the "fluff" about "best oil" takes work.
Things I've learned...or believe....Car manufacturers only care about their corporate fuel mileage standards, they could care less about my engine longevity.
Our vintage bikes need the zinc that was in our original oils back in the day. (Rotella).
The wider the spread of the oil viscosity label ( 0w-8, 5w-40, etc.) , the more "plasticizers" you have per oil molecules by volume, so that should be avoided. I remember the controversy concerning 10W-40 even back in the late 70's - 80's. My first introduction to oil analysis.
Viscosity shear point/ longevity is critical......so no 10,000 mile oil changes for me.
Amsoil is a mineral oil and from most legitimate tests is quite a good oil. But you'll pay.
Base stock does matter. Quality filters matter.
No "api doughnut" rated oils in my vintage bike.
Hands on builders/rebuilders opinions matter.

There are dozens upon dozens of oil thread/ websites out there.......good luck to us that care.
🫤

[PeWe]

I think new vehicles are victims of the "green  fever"
Bikes that are tuned way to lean. Pigs to cruise in lower speeds, legal speeds.
I heard one Indian FTR  1200 is factory   tuned to an AFR of 14.7.
He need to take the bike to a tuner that modifies the ECU when removed from bike.
Booster plug not an option when ECU has at least 2 engine temp sensors and several mappings the ECU use.

Another guy  with a KTM could trick the ECU with a booster plug so ECU reads lower engine temp to run richer. Better flowing K&N filter that compensates the higher revs.

Thin oils in car engines for less resistance taking less fuel.
I doubt those engines will live long.
Most "green stuff" today does not work.

It must be youtubers or forums that show the bad and good oils for those cars.
I think it was a US car where engines destroyed really quick. The solution was another oil.

My old Audi I bought when 3 years old has 0W-30 as original oil. I gave it 0/5W- 40  as quick I could.
"Longlife" service interval is a real joke. Why change oil at 25.000 km when 10.000 km can be too long interval?  Turbo and small amount of oil shortens the intervals.

Audi USA has charts of approved oils with viscosities.

Ethanol in fuel another thing making engines to run worse. It must end up in  more pollution when the combustion is not complete.
Sooty valves and  chambers must indicate bad things.

[denward17]

All this oil talk, any recommendations?

I'm currently using the following based on suggestions from the forum, without any knowledge of oil......
Rotella T4 15w-40 for fall/winter/spring times when I ride (mineral).
Bel-Ray 20w50 for hot summer time rides (mineral).

Could I get by using Rotella T4 15w-40 all the time, in like 90+ F temps?

[scottly]

All this oil talk, any recommendations?

Reply #141 in this thread:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,6895.125.html

[denward17]

All this oil talk, any recommendations?

Reply #141 in this thread:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,6895.125.html

Well, you can't argue with that kind of mileage, I think I will start using the Spectro 20w50 conventional oil  after my current stash is used up.

[PeWe]

Why not try direct? The other oil can wait.

CB750 gearbox feels fine when shifting gears with Spectro 20W-50 Heavy Duty mineral

I had planned to change oil at 4500 km in my K2. I  changed at 5500km. Oil still felt and looked good.  I'm sure that 6000 km will work fine.

Redline (20W-50) another good oil. My K6 has got that.

I can not resist trying other oils too, often mixed with one quart of Redline as an additive.

[ofreen]

CB750 gearbox feels fine when shifting gears with Spectro 20W-50 Heavy Duty mineral

Yes.  I looked at the 750's maintenance log to see when I started using Spectro 20w50 - it was in 1998. By that time, we had been in southern Idaho for 5 years, so I had some experience with the summer heat around here.  I noticed right away that the usual hard shifting and difficulty finding neutral with other oils (mostly Honda HP4 and Castrol 20w50)  in stop and go traffic was no longer happening with the Spectro oil.  Even toward the end of the oil change interval where the other oils would get pretty bad.  Performance with Spectro was so good that I extended oil change intervals to 4000 miles for a long time.  These days I change it every 3000 miles, and the filter every other oil change.  I hadn't done one for a while, so out of curiousity, I cut open the last oil filter I changed in October.  I took a few photos, but haven't gotten around to posting them yet.  I was pleased to see how little debris there was in the filter media after 6000 miles in an engine that is closing in on 174,000 miles.  I see Dave started an oil filter thread, so I will try to post them there in the next day or so.

[PeWe]

CB750 gearbox feels fine when shifting gears with Spectro 20W-50 Heavy Duty mineral

Yes.  I looked at the 750's maintenance log to see when I started using Spectro 20w50 - it was in 1998. By that time, we had been in southern Idaho for 5 years, so I had some experience with the summer heat around here.  I noticed right away that the usual hard shifting and difficulty finding neutral with other oils (mostly Honda HP4 and Castrol 20w50)  in stop and go traffic was no longer happening with the Spectro oil.  Even toward the end of the oil change interval where the other oils would get pretty bad.  Performance with Spectro was so good that I extended oil change intervals to 4000 miles for a long time.  These days I change it every 3000 miles, and the filter every other oil change.  I hadn't done one for a while, so out of curiousity, I cut open the last oil filter I changed in October.  I took a few photos, but haven't gotten around to posting them yet.  I was pleased to see how little debris there was in the filter media after 6000 miles in an engine that is closing in on 174,000 miles.  I see Dave started an oil filter thread, so I will try to post them there in the next day or so.

Greg, you are the good example here. Really long time and distance testing of Spectro 20W-50. Bike is still running without obvious needs of restore.

This is also a good example when adding extra ZDDP additive in other oils with less amount of zinc. Find the working level.