Topic: Yamiya No No. Exhaust Not Fitting Well

[Finnigan]

I purchased a 'lotus root' exhaust from Yamiya for Xmas despite the shipping and tariffs.  Gorgeous pieces and while the 1 and 2 pipes fit perfectly the number 3 pipe has issues,

- While fully seated on the exhaust flange(?) the pipe hits the rear axle and doesn't line up with the pillion hole
- The pipe's angle and position are noticeably different when compared to the #2 pipe
- The #3 and #4 pipe joining baffle seem to be at different positions

Yamiya sent a leaflet saying something like this can happen and to adjust the pipe by moving it out and up (I read that as 'lift it hard and even stress/flex to get it to fit') but not even close.  I put some rubber between the pipe and frame and tried to flex it but nothing seems to be helping get even close.  Standing back it looks to me like the compound angle is making it point out the back the of bike wrong.

I sent an email to Yamiya with no answer yet.

[Finnigan]

pic 2

[Finnigan]

pic 3

[Don R]

 If one side of the flange is tightened before the other, the copper crush washer can be uneven causing the flange to tip one way or another. I like to hang them loosely and start at the rear.
 That said I am one of the few that also had a line up challenge with a Yamiya no no. pipe. My most recent set of Yamiyas came with steel line-up tubes to go into the muffler connector at the rear.
  On one #4 I connected the rear and peg bracket then coerced the front onto the exhaust nipple with a rolled up towel and a rubber mallet. Be extremely careful if you proceed in this manner.
 The busso pipes required a ratchet strap and a little tug towards the rear. It looks like #3 is one way and #4 is the other way.

[BenelliSEI]

I have a long pry bar (about 3’) with a tapered end. I turned down the last 8” so that it just slips through the tube on the pipe. I use it to “pull/push” the pipes into place. Usually start with the inner one and then remove it and work on the outer….
Good luck

[PeWe]

It looks like the pipe is fitted too deep onto the head spigot.
Angle down the pipe at the rear so pipe can glide on the head spigot without damaging force so the rear will match the hole for the bolt.

My Lotus Root pipes had a good fit on my K6.

The Yamiya No Numbers sit different at the front on my K2 as the same pipes earlier sat on my K6.

Both the No numbers and Lotus root had to sit correct at front to match the rear bolt hole in frame.

When not lining up, no force needed, just angle down at rear and pipe will glide free on the head spigot.

Here when I adjusted Yamiya No Number pipes to make rear bolt to fit the frame thru both pipes.
Boot off, pipe down and adjust at front....



EDIT:
Lotus Root and No Numbers are different pipes.
Lotus Root are very hollow with very fat diffusers. Not much inside the pipes.
Photos show Yamiya Lotus Root and  No Numbers.

[MauiK3]

+1 try starting from the back, you also may end up with a washer between the pipe and the frame in back.

[PeWe]

Maybe you can adjust the engine bolts a little. Loosen them and you might get a few mm to push engine backwards.
Tighten them afterwards.
I have a vague memory of I had to do that.

And as Don mentioned, how the spigots are tightened.
Sure there is only one exhaust copper seal under each spigot?
Old seals sit hard in the head and hard to see when they are black of soot.

A thin sharp screwdriver can help to scratch to see and bend ond ones off if sitting there

[Finnigan]

Wow, I'm overwhelmed by the support and responses. I'll try to answer them all with what I've found:

If one side of the flange is tightened before the other, the copper crush washer can be uneven causing the flange to tip one way or another. I like to hang them loosely and start at the rear.
 That said I am one of the few that also had a line up challenge with a Yamiya no no. pipe. My most recent set of Yamiyas came with steel line-up tubes to go into the muffler connector at the rear.
  On one #4 I connected the rear and peg bracket then coerced the front onto the exhaust nipple with a rolled up towel and a rubber mallet. Be extremely careful if you proceed in this manner.
 The busso pipes required a ratchet strap and a little tug towards the rear. It looks like #3 is one way and #4 is the other way.

That's a good idea, I refitted the #3 flange twice to make sure it seated correctly but the same thing happened (that's when I tried muscle and gave up

I have a long pry bar (about 3’) with a tapered end. I turned down the last 8” so that it just slips through the tube on the pipe. I use it to “pull/push” the pipes into place. Usually start with the inner one and then remove it and work on the outer….
Good luck

I had a similar idea, I used the rubber handle of a dead blow and a long punch to 'align' the pipe on the pillion.  I'm surprised how much they flex with force but they never really sat right.

[Finnigan]

It looks like the pipe is fitted too deep onto the head spigot.
Angle down the pipe at the rear so pipe can glide on the head spigot without damaging force so the rear will match the hole for the bolt...

I never thought of them fitting too deep on the head spigot, I definitely will try this today - its been on my mind how to fix this for a couple days now.

[Finnigan]

+1 try starting from the back, you also may end up with a washer between the pipe and the frame in back.

That might need to be the case, I don't want to take a hammer to make a dent in my new pipes

[Finnigan]

Maybe you can adjust the engine bolts a little. Loosen them and you might get a few mm to push engine backwards.
Tighten them afterwards.
I have a vague memory of I had to do that.

And as Don mentioned, how the spigots are tightened.
Sure there is only one exhaust copper seal under each spigot?
Old seals sit hard in the head and hard to see when they are black of soot.

A thin sharp screwdriver can help to scratch to see and bend ond ones off if sitting there

I'll try this too, I tightened them down first for exhaust seal and to avoid stripping the threads with too much pressure but I'll work gently and try not to force a bigger issue.  Right call on removing the old crush washers, when I started with the old exhaust off they were almost hidden under the soot - thin screwdriver is the only way to get those suckers out!

[jwurbel]

My #2 still protrudes out at the front vs the others.  Appears the down tube was bent wrong.  Others with the same issue told me they cut the flange to remedy the issue.  Haven’t got to that point yet.

[Finnigan]

Taking some of the advice from your comments and started working from back to front.  The number 3 head spigot is loose and the biggest issue is that the #4 pipe is a mile away from being seated on the head.  It feels as though I should remove the 1 and 2 pipe to compare lengths...hate taking a step backwards to prove they still don't fit.