Topic: Fender rivets

[lash]

Any ideas on how to tighten loose fender rivets?

[HondaMan]

I have [somewhere] a brass punch and convex-shaped mandrel that I made many moons ago to do those rivets.
Afterward I discovered they got loose again, and pretty quickly.
But, it only mattered when the fender was off the bike: the fender struts hold the fender so firmly that those rivets didn't matter.

So, I drilled mine out and installed tiny stainless-steel bolts, nuts, and lockwashers instead.

Then I lost my handmade tools somewhere in this house...

[lash]

I think I’ll go with the bolts and nuts!

[newday777]

I think I’ll go with the bolts and nuts!

Get button head stainless bolts.

[HondaMan]

I think I’ll go with the bolts and nuts!

Get button head stainless bolts.

That's a good idea: I do have to clean out the little crosspoint holes sometimes. They look a bit rusty in their grooves now: maybe I'll square-up those little holes with my tiny little files and get some of those cool screws that have the square boss on their bottom side, like tiny carriage bolts - or something?

[bryanj]

Bolts are better, the hole in the dome ones fills with water and you get yucky brown colour, stainles WILL rust depending on composition and bolts aint the best quality

[newday777]

I think I’ll go with the bolts and nuts!

Get button head stainless bolts.

That's a good idea: I do have to clean out the little crosspoint holes sometimes. They look a bit rusty in their grooves now: maybe I'll square-up those little holes with my tiny little files and get some of those cool screws that have the square boss on their bottom side, like tiny carriage bolts - or something?

I think m3 Button head bolts might work Mark. Though they have a allen head drive, not a smooth head like the rivets have.
I tried to find small stainless steel bumper bolts but the smallest was 1/4-20 thread bolts.

[rotortiller]

Any ideas on how to tighten loose fender rivets?

A rivet snap, hammer, flat punch and a vise may do the trick and tighten the rivet up however the fender metal may be compromised under the rivet head. If that is the case, grind off the shop head on the rivet, drill out the hole and use screws with low profile nuts or grind down the shank with nut as needed for tire clearance. Loctite is advisable.

[MauiK3]

The M3 button heads should work. The hex sockets shouldn't be too hard to keep clean. Keep them relatively clean and they won't rust.

[HondaMan]

I think I’ll go with the bolts and nuts!

Get button head stainless bolts.

That's a good idea: I do have to clean out the little crosspoint holes sometimes. They look a bit rusty in their grooves now: maybe I'll square-up those little holes with my tiny little files and get some of those cool screws that have the square boss on their bottom side, like tiny carriage bolts - or something?

I think m3 Button head bolts might work Mark. Though they have a allen head drive, not a smooth head like the rivets have.
I tried to find small stainless steel bumper bolts but the smallest was 1/4-20 thread bolts.

Yeah - I'm not finding much (on the Internet) for tiny stainless carriage bolts?
Dollhouse parts...?

[PeWe]

I bought a used front fender  from a biker friend in the early 80's. My K6 needed a replacement.

It took many years until I noticed rivets replaced by screws and nuts.

 
#
#
The front side got allen heads.  I do not  remember if I replaced rusty X- heads.
I have a NOS fender. But the old fender has seen several countries

[rotortiller]

You may prefer something less aggressive. Stainless might look better. Stock rivet holes are 5mm once the rivet is removed by grinding the shop head off, it might have been 4mm brand spankin new but never less.

[Dunk]

Look up rivet punch. Basically a drift with concave end to fit a round rivet heat. Need a solid backer held firmly in place or with weight of part on it but a few whacks should tighten it up, or us in a vise or press. Similar to rivet tools for car vent window seals.

[Ozzybud]

I have a rivet gun and a bucking bar. The way we put airplanes together.One pull of the trigger with the proper universal head bit tightens them right up.

[HondaMan]

All of this now reminds me of 'why' my OEM rivets were removed: in the 1970s there was a cool front fork brace available that mounted to both the front fender's mounting bolts (8mm ones) and the fender itself. It looked terrific on the Yamahas for which is was made, but I couldn't find one for the Honda. When I thought I had found one that could work I dug into this fender, later to discover that, nope, it didn't.

This was all when the Internet was called DARPAnet and wasn't a public thing...that might have saved me then?

Still, the screws have only come loose once.

Or maybe twice.

I think.

[rotortiller]

I had considered removing the rivets and replacing them but then gave my head a shake and went for screws. The rivets had proven themselves to be a problem so went for a better way to secure the fender to the bracket. I even considered bucking the old ones again to tighten them up, then rattled my marbles for a second time (it was not like I did not have any lol). There is flex at the bracket under dynamic loads to which the rivets have proven themselves of not sustaining. Bikes with two fender stays front and back might fare better than the single configuration. I popped a fender to show a low profile 5mm nut and shop head of the stock rivet for comparison. Do not try and drill or grind the outside rivet head off as it may reward you with damaged chrome

[MauiK3]

That would suck to scar the chrome!

[PeWe]

That would suck to scar the chrome!

From inside (under), not seen.

[lash]

 I’m going to try and pick up some button heads and give that a try.

[kyle750]

Following with keen interest.  I saw this listing for a fender for sale in Japan and thought it might be useful to see another possible fender rivet solution.  Fender is an original CB750 fender that was modified by WhiteHouse to fit a CB1100. 

WhiteHouse is a prominent Japanese custom shop, renowned for its high-quality retro body kits for the Honda CB1100. Their kits are designed to transform the modern CB1100 into a visual tribute to legendary Honda classics like the original CB750 Four.

[PeWe]

That bike looks good!!

Reminds me about a CB750 with a billet block and a head that could have been designed and made by a skilled guy on these forums.

Only one thing with the CB1100, lack of power.
It should have at least the same power as the CB1100R -1983. 120hp on crank, 106whp which a modified CB750 can reach when bored to 970cc and up + more mods $$$

100-110whp that can release more up to  +120whp by removing a simple limitation is my recommendation

[kyle750]

That bike looks good!!

I agree it's a good looking bike.  Here is another photo and you can actually see the modified stay on the CB750 front fender.

[MauiK3]

Beautiful bike, too bad the engine is a bit weak for its size.
I’d buy that if I could.