Once up and over the 1-2 carbs, the fuel hose MUST be kept as flat as possible: don't let it loop way up and back down again. Shorten it until it will fit in front of the airbox, as shown below. If you don't do these things, it will trap an air bubble inside which will cause 2 annoyances:
1. In hot, slow city traffic, the fuel will "pump" erratically to the 3-4 carb side and cause, alternately, low-bowls there and then overflowing (momentarily) bowls there. This makes the idle erratic at best.
2. Lack of top speed, sometimes even 'surging', at modern hiway speeds above 70 MPH. Top speed will also drop to about 90 MPH and it will 'feel' weak up there: it should not. The top speed should be well in excess of the ton. I've sometimes experienced that the bike will reach a higher top speed, then slows down and can't reach it again. Same trouble.
An aside: note the carb vent hoses in picture 4 below: they MUST be there, and the longer, the better. Honda's only reached behind the airbox, fine at 55 MPH. Above 70 MPH you will find things better if they reach further up, like behind the battery, snaking alongside it until they can fall behind it. I have also sometimes drilled 3 holes into a small pill bottle lid and stuck the 2 hoses into those holes, then assembled the lid onto the pill bottle and set it behind or below the battery (much longer bowl vent hoses): in roadracing this helped noticeably. I didn't get to do it with a CB750K0 with its 4 bowl vents, only with the 2-vent versions after the K1 roundtop carb linkage setup came out. The K0 would require a bigger pill bottle...
Note also: the PD carbs have a wholly different arrangement. When I next get one of those in for work I'll try to make this post longer, showing those carbs. Some of them don't even have vent holes in their bodies, a casting flaw that wasn't policed very well. Those bikes pay a price above 60 MPH.