Topic: Master cylinder fit on low bars

[Mostly-broke]

Hi, having just bought my cb750, I've attempted to put European handle bars on my. It's a US import to the UK and I've encountered an issue. The master cylinder assembly fouls the tachometer and there is no way this is going to fit. I've double checked my purchase, and they were listed as CB750 European bars.
I've gone through the hassle of pulling all the wires through the bars, stripping the wiring in the headlight bucket and reassembling only to find in the final stages the bloody MC wont fit!
I'm pretty sure it's one of those repops but I have the original MC and that's the same dimensions.
What am I missing?
Is the top clamp different on European models? I feel like if it was an inch higher it would fit ok.

[bryanj]

Were the bars listed as uk spec 750 or just generic uk?
Yolks are same

[ThatUnknownGuy]

Whats the difference between european handlebars and stock US?

[bryanj]

US are much higher

[newday777]

Whats the difference between european handlebars and stock US?

US bars are 5" height and sets you more upright.
Euro bars are 2" height give a slight lean forward.

[newday777]

Hi, having just bought my cb750, I've attempted to put European handle bars on my. It's a US import to the UK and I've encountered an issue. The master cylinder assembly fouls the tachometer and there is no way this is going to fit. I've double checked my purchase, and they were listed as CB750 European bars.
I've gone through the hassle of pulling all the wires through the bars, stripping the wiring in the headlight bucket and reassembling only to find in the final stages the bloody MC wont fit!
I'm pretty sure it's one of those repops but I have the original MC and that's the same dimensions.
What am I missing?
Is the top clamp different on European models? I feel like if it was an inch higher it would fit ok.

When you mount the master cylinder you will need to reroute the hose. It doesn't foul the tachometer when adjusted properly. My blue K5 I put the Euro bars on, my red K6 has the stock US bars on it, for now.

[PeWe]

My CB750 K2 has the euro bar
It fits and works fine with wires inside.
Zoom in...

My K6 has low bars too, wider with much better feel and control.
Wires outside.

The  K6 has a Highway Hawk HH-55-255.

It is rather wide so I cut it 60mm on each side.
To 800mm.

[kyle750]

My CB550 has Euro bars (I like the lower height) but I'm considering going lower to 400F bars 

[MauiK3]

Are the bars centered in the clamps?

[Little_Phil]

I bought some Euro bars from DSS for my US 550F.
Then I bought some Euro bars on ebay that were said to be CB750 for my 500.
The ones for the F have a much larger rise than the 750 ones, but got them to fit. But the clocks are small dia on the 500.

[01Thomas]

I fitted clip-ons to my Seeley and had the brake M/C interfering with the instruments.

My solution was probably a bit dodgy but it's panned out ok: I machined about 10mm off the threaded boss, the one where the banjo bolt screws in.
The remaining thread in the boss is still deeper than the banjo bolt is long so the structural integrity is untouched.

[Stev-o]

I have Euro bars on my K4 and there is at least a half inch clearance.

In your pic, the MC isnt mounted so the angle is wrong. Install the throttle and then the MC as close as possible and as newday suggests, rotate the brake line as necessary.

[PeWe]

I fitted clip-ons to my Seeley and had the brake M/C interfering with the instruments.

My solution was probably a bit dodgy but it's panned out ok: I machined about 10mm off the threaded boss, the one where the banjo bolt screws in.
The remaining thread in the boss is still deeper than the banjo bolt is long so the structural integrity is untouched.

Good idea to grind it shorter.
But, measure the thread depth before.
My K2 got a new MC 2 months ago when my old aftermarket MC from DSS had a clogged return hole. A lazy fix was to order a new MC. This time a slightly different MC I thought was same as the DSS version

It was shipped with a banjo bolt, a shorter one. The very long stock lenght could not be used as the DSS MC used. I tried,  around 5 mm too long.

I'll have serviced MC on the shelf for a quick replacement when needed. The return hole will be clogged up very easy.  So gic them when I have time.

The MC was only  7 years old, the last fluid change 4 years before this winter where I noticed it was bad.

Brane fluid need to be replaced every 2nd year. Make sure the return hole works. If not, locked up brake in the worst case.

[newday777]

Hi, having just bought my cb750, I've attempted to put European handle bars on my. It's a US import to the UK and I've encountered an issue. The master cylinder assembly fouls the tachometer and there is no way this is going to fit. I've double checked my purchase, and they were listed as CB750 European bars.
I've gone through the hassle of pulling all the wires through the bars, stripping the wiring in the headlight bucket and reassembling only to find in the final stages the bloody MC wont fit!
I'm pretty sure it's one of those repops but I have the original MC and that's the same dimensions.
What am I missing?
Is the top clamp different on European models? I feel like if it was an inch higher it would fit ok.

So I'm guessing/ASSUMING(NG!) from your not replying in this thread or your previous thread on buying the bars/cables questions, that you haven't bought a shorter brake hose, nor cracked loose the banjo bolt holding the hose you have to reroute the hose up through close to the headlight bucket and ear beside the tachometer??

Who did you buy the bars from? Got the link?

BTW you will want to empty the master cylinder and hose of brake fluid before cracking the banjo bolt loose as brake fluid will eat paint! Cover all painted parts to protect them from brake fluid drips!
Have a spray bottle of soapy water ready to spray any drips to clean off spilt fluid.

[PeWe]

My upper brake line is 300mm  banjo cc-banjo cc. It is tight. Steel braided, slimmer than stock rubber.



It is routed to under the headlight  bucket where the brake pressure sensor sit for brake light.

The handlebar must be correctly tilted, not backwards to the rider

I have an alternative MC that has a piston dia of 12.5mm to improve the single front brake. (Stock type 14mm)
I have not tested it yet. More clearance to tacho. Mirror threads OK. Lever almost like the dog leg type of levers my bike has.
I hope for an easy MC swap only as it look like.
After writing this I feel the urge to swap the MC

https://ebay.us/m/ijbdso

Below the Kawasaki aftermarket MC vs DSS aftermarket close to stock.



EDIT:
New MC. The lever has a much softer action now, almost to the grip.
I'll see on a road test if the brake is braking. Before not so much
It has a window for visible fluid level.

[low-side]

I recommend installing your throttle assembly, then your master cylinder, and then the hose.  I imagine that you'll find that everything fits fine.  I run low bars on everything and I've never had a clearance issue.  On my 750 I had enough space to consider running a double banjo setup on my twin disc conversion.

[Nurse Julie]

Are you sure they are euro bars, they still look very high and the angle of the m/c is totally wrong.
I'm in UK and have UK model 750's, I'll take a photo in the morning.