Author Topic: This is incredibly stupid! Part II Humiliating... (Read 4153 times)

medic09 · « **on:** April 17, 2007, 05:05:00 PM »

I bought a new chain to install after my bike threw it's chain on the interstate a few weeks ago. I have tried everything I have in the garage, and I can't get the master link side plate on far enough. C-clamp, chain press! (too small, for 530 chain), pliers, you name it. Took the plate off and reversed it. I'm at wit's end, and I can't ride my bike because of a really stupid problem. How on earth would I fix a chain by the side of the road?

Bodi · « **Reply #1 on:** April 17, 2007, 05:19:03 PM »

Do you have the correct master link? I've had this happen when I used a generic link, my chain needed a slightly wider one. The chain size - ie 530 - specifies the roller diameter, roller spacing, and inside width between side plates. Other dimensions like pin diameter and plate width are open to change (within limits) by manufacturers.

medic09 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 17, 2007, 05:39:59 PM »

I'm using the link that came with the chain.

It goes on till I can see the first bit of where the clip goes; but it doesn't go far enough back.

bwaller · « **Reply #3 on:** April 17, 2007, 05:46:24 PM »

I bought a little link press tool to install those because some of the new link plates are damn tight. I expect there were complaints of failures with master links using clips so they are now very snug. Although I never had one come apart I don't use a clip anymore, instead use a rivot link.

.RJ · « **Reply #4 on:** April 17, 2007, 05:46:33 PM »

I've had a few chains that are a real pain to get the master link pressed in... you have a buddy you can borrow a chain press from? A good one makes the job easy.

medic09 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 17, 2007, 06:04:02 PM »

Quote from: .RJ on April 17, 2007, 05:46:33 PM

I've had a few chains that are a real pain to get the master link pressed in... you have a buddy you can borrow a chain press from? A good one makes the job easy.

I have a 'mini' chain press that doesn't do it. No one around here seems to have one for a 630 chain. I'll have to run by the Honda dealer in ABQ, but this is getting embarrassing!

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #6 on:** April 17, 2007, 06:39:12 PM »

Are you using an O-Ring chain? I'd like to think the orings would need slight compressing for the link to go on?? Not sure, it's been a while.

csendker · « **Reply #7 on:** April 17, 2007, 06:51:17 PM »

TT just posted on this somewhere - I searched quick but did not find. I believe it was to install the master link as far as possible, then push sideways on the chain, which pinches the link a bit, enough to slip it fully through and pop on the cover plate.

medic09 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 17, 2007, 07:04:38 PM »

Old-fashioned chain, not O-ring. O-ring is what it shed somewhere on I-25.

The master link goes on the chain just fine. The whole problem is getting the cover plate to install fully. Or am I not following what you're saying?

Zane · « **Reply #9 on:** April 17, 2007, 07:14:32 PM »

Yeah - I guess it's "stupid", but I had the same frustrating problem last fall when I put on a new chain.

I was doing the task late in the evening, and when I couldn't get the master link catch on (no matter how hard I tried) I got so frustrated I put the thing on an anvil and peened over the stud.

So the chain was well hooked together after that little exercise, and that's when I learned how to remove and reinstall the swing arm.

medic09 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 17, 2007, 07:18:51 PM »

Quote from: Zane on April 17, 2007, 07:14:32 PM

Yeah - I guess it's "stupid", but I had the same frustrating problem last fall when I put on a new chain.

I was doing the task late in the evening, and when I couldn't get the master link catch on (no matter how hard I tried) I got so frustrated I put the thing on an anvil and peened over the stud.

So the chain was well hooked together after that little exercise, and that's when I learned how to remove and reinstall the swing arm.

Okay, Zane, I feel just a little better now!

csendker · « **Reply #11 on:** April 17, 2007, 07:35:14 PM »

Oops, I thought the link wouldn't seat in far enough. Otherwise, food for thought, I'm talking to Z1 about a new chain myself, and I have two non-O-ring options: standard or heavy duty. The standard is 20.45 mm pin length and the heavy duty is 22 mm pin length. I believe I have a 22 mm on my bike right nnow and I don't think I'm chewing up my side cover, so that's what I'll probably go with. Did they accidentially give you a std. link with a HD chain? 1.55 mm isn't much to the naked eye, but just enough to never let you install the cover.

medic09 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 17, 2007, 07:42:34 PM »

It looks like there's some length left that the cover *could/should* move back on the pin, thereby allowing full access to the grooves that the clip goes on. The cover ony goes part way back, revealing a bit of the groove, and it won't go back further. There's definately space that would allow it to go further back.

ofreen · « **Reply #13 on:** April 17, 2007, 08:41:22 PM »

Before I got a chain press I used to use a socket and a c-clamp to press the side plate on. It works OK, it just helps to have three hands. Choose a socket that just fits over the outside of the pins. It works best if the pins are a good fit in the corners of the socket, but they shouldn't be tight. A 5 or 6 inch c-clamp is big enough to do the job. Rotate the wheel to position the masterlink on a convenient place on the rear sprocket. Use the c-clamp to press the plate on, checking often as you go to make sure where you are at. You want to stop when you can just get the clip in the grooves freely. I've done many master links that way. Not as handy as a chain press, but it gets it done.

medic09 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 17, 2007, 09:04:48 PM »

Quote from: ofreen on April 17, 2007, 08:41:22 PM

Before I got a chain press I used to use a socket and a c-clamp to press the side plate on. It works OK, it just helps to have three hands. Choose a socket that just fits over the outside of the pins. It works best if the pins are a good fit in the corners of the socket, but they shouldn't be tight. A 5 or 6 inch c-clamp is big enough to do the job. Rotate the wheel to position the masterlink on a convenient place on the rear sprocket. Use the c-clamp to press the plate on, checking often as you go to make sure where you are at. You want to stop when you can just get the clip in the grooves freely. I've done many master links that way. Not as handy as a chain press, but it gets it done.

Sounds good. I will have to try this. Thanks!

While we're at it, what's a relatively good way to get the clip on?

CB750R · « **Reply #15 on:** April 17, 2007, 09:23:45 PM »

I've used c-clamps and pliers but I find the best method short of a specialty tool is the good ole vise grips, I have a pair of the flat toothed ones that have a flat serrated surface not the semi circular ones that are good for pipes etc. the holes for the pins are slightly undersized requiring you to clamp down on the chain and off and on and off slowly forcing the pin into the plates, I've found this to be the easiest way so far to get the plate on. just let the vise grip do the work!! sorta like chewing a bit fat peice of steak before you swallow!

medic09 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 17, 2007, 09:32:36 PM »

Quote from: CB750R on April 17, 2007, 09:23:45 PM

I've used c-clamps and pliers but I find the best method short of a specialty tool is the good ole vise grips, I have a pair of the flat toothed ones that have a flat serrated surface not the semi circular ones that are good for pipes etc. the holes for the pins are slightly undersized requiring you to clamp down on the chain and off and on and off slowly forcing the pin into the plates, I've found this to be the easiest way so far to get the plate on. just let the vise grip do the work!! sorta like chewing a bit fat peice of steak before you swallow!

Maybe I'm especially weak after sleep deprivation and being slightly sick over a week, but I couldn't do the job with Vise-Grips.

TwoTired · « **Reply #17 on:** April 17, 2007, 10:21:36 PM »

The master link has a U shape with one side plate off. When the top of the U splays apart under tension of the chain the other side plate doesn't want to go on fully. I use the chain itself to bend the pin tips together and get that side plate on fully. Position the master at the bottom of the bike where it spans the two sprockets and the pins pointing at you. Push sideways on the chain which will begin to close the top of the U. The side plate of the link will slip right on.

This assumes the master link isn't bent. Assemble the master link separate from the chain to verify it all fits together properly. Certainly the loose side plate should slide easily over the pins to show access to the pins grooves for the link clip. If it doesn't, bend the link U until it does, then try the above procedure.

Cheers,

Zane · « **Reply #18 on:** April 17, 2007, 10:45:25 PM »

Good info for the next time I swap out my chain, gents.

Thanks.

ofreen · « **Reply #19 on:** April 17, 2007, 11:13:12 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on April 17, 2007, 10:21:36 PM

Certainly the loose side plate should slide easily over the pins to show access to the pins grooves for the link clip. If it doesn't, bend the link U until it does, then try the above procedure.

I haven't installed a non o-ring chain in years, so maybe the masterlink for non o-ring and o-ring chains are different. On o-ring chains, the masterlink sideplate is a press fit on the pins. Although medic's chain is non o-ring, it sounds like it has a press fit as well. He is getting the sideplate on part of the way, just not enough to seat the clip.

Now that I think about it, I do remember the side plates slipping on back in the good ol' pre o-ring days. I haven't used anything but o-ring chains for the last 20 years, even on the dirt bikes.

medic09 · « **Reply #20 on:** April 18, 2007, 04:50:46 AM »

Okay, well you guys are verifying my expectation and distant memories that this should be a whole lot easier. So maybe the link is a little deformed. It was wrapped in the factory plastic inside the box, but that doesn't have to mean much...

medic09 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 18, 2007, 06:39:36 PM »

Okay, so a veteran mechanic at the Motorsport Honda in ABQ (Mike) told me to put a nut over the rivet where it comes through the side plate, and vise-grip it. Well, I put a nut on like he said, and then put a C-clamp on it after stopping at Sears and buying some normal C-clamps (the ones we had were wimpy). Presto! The side plate is on, the clip goes on, and...humiliation.

Now, even after looking at the Honda manual and Clymer, I can't get the chain tensioned so I can button this up! The axle is loosened, of course. When I go to tighten the chain tensioners, nothing moves. They screw in a bit, and stop tight. I pulled the wheel back as much as it would go (not much) and the chain tensioners don't move anything any further.

Okay, so I'm a mechanical idiot. Someone educate me, please.

scondon · « **Reply #22 on:** April 18, 2007, 07:00:56 PM »

Have you backed off the locknuts on the tensioner bolts? If not, then the bolts will stop tight when the locknuts hit the tensioner.

medic09 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 18, 2007, 07:17:34 PM »

Quote from: scondon on April 18, 2007, 07:00:56 PM

Have you backed off the locknuts on the tensioner bolts? If not, then the bolts will stop tight when the locknuts hit the tensioner.

Yes, I did.

So, let me get this straight. When screwing in the tensioner bolts, are they supposed to move the axle back and thereby tighten the chain?

nteek754 · « **Reply #24 on:** April 18, 2007, 07:25:51 PM »

Hey Medic is your chain too long?

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Author Topic: This is incredibly stupid! Part II Humiliating... (Read 4153 times)

Zane

Zane