Topic: Restoration of a 350 four update: Back from the Dead

[hoodellyhoo]

     Seeing as the weather was so nice today, I figured it was the perfect day to unearth my (formerly my father's) 1973 350 four. The bike has been sitting in our garage for about the last 7 years. For those of you who read my introduction you'll know that my dad gave up working on the bike due to a bad electrical gremlin (the fuse heats up and blows as soon as the key is turned). I told my dad that I wanted to get the bike running again and he said I could have it as long he can ride it from time to time.

     So as you can see from the pictures, the bike is in pretty decent shape. It certainly needs a good leaning and polishing. There's some good oxidation on the engine bits and a little rust on the front rim. The bike is nearly original (new tires and exhaust). It even has the original tool kit and manual. The front brake was almost frozen, but I managed to heave it out into the sunshine for the first time in many years.











I had to get a picture with my baby






This is one of the many things that will need attention. The tach drive broke at some point and in the process of trying to fix it, part of the cable housing on the rocker box broke. The cable is now free to move up and down a little bit. I'm pretty sure that the break is after the oil seal, but I'm not sure. Does anybody think this will be a problem or do I have to look for a new rocker box?



Also, my dad accidentally threw out the old keys when he replaced the ignition switch, so now I can't get the seat open. Does anybody know how to pick the lock or is there another route?

[hoodellyhoo]

Unfortunately, I will have to wait until school is done (may 11) until I have time to work on it.

Some more info:

I purchased a rear grab bar for it off of ebay some time ago.

The engine and carb slides move free. (but a carb cleaning/rebuild is gonna happen)

There is some rust in the tank. Not sure what route I'll be taking there.

Here's a picture of my lovely girlfriend with the bike.

[derekd]

Hey hoodellyhoo the bike looks great.Im not sure how bad it is thet the rocker cover is broken at the tach drive it is after the seal .The cable does not fit tight in that area but I would think it will move around alot with out the sleeved area there maybe causing more damage,its a nice bike I would fix it.After seven years though I would focus on the brakes and electrical as long as the engine is in decent shape, good compression,leak down ok ect.  Got to stop before you can go. 

[liaudio]

Nice bike!  She's a cutie. 

I wouldn't worry too much about the tach drive as long as it's not leaking any earl.  As long as it stays in place there's no need to worry much being that it's not a critical saftey issue.

Things you should do to make it road worthy:

Replace the tires.  Even if they look like they have tread left, they probaby have dry rot and won't be as soft and grippy as new ones.

Give her a tune-up. Oil, filters, points, etc.

I'd rebuild the front master cylinder as a matter of course.  See the thread on rebuilding the caliper and master cylinder on this forum.  It'll run you about $40.  Money well spent.

check the chain tension.  Also, lube it up.

Check the cam chain tension.

There are other things as well, but start with those and use common sense.

Finally, Old Navy flip-flops aren't the best footwear for motorcycling.  Birkenstock clogs are a little better, but not by much.

[gold01ca]

ditto above, new tires for sure, braking systems in good working order, chain and sprockets as well. safety items should be the first priority when bringing these old babies back to life, and lose the flip flops

[loonymoon]

Hi,

 Lovely bike she's a beaut - really like the red ones! 'Fraid I can't really help with your questions. The seat lock on my 350 is very stiff. I bent the ignition key at a rally once whilst trying to open it to show someone the manual etc. Luckily it hammered back into shape ok. Perhaps a locksmith would be able to help you - they may be able to change it so if fits your other key.

Good luck with it!!

[Jay B]

To open the seat you can reach up with a 10mm socket and extension and unbolt the catch from the bottom of the seat pan. As for the valve cover, it's not a big deal, but I have an extra I'd sell pretty cheap if you'd like to replace it. If you decide to go with a different exhaust, PM me, I've been looking for something like yours for my bike.

That's a really nice 350. Good luck with it and have fun!

[keiths]

Nice looking bike and gf.
For the electrical problem, first thing I'd do would be clean all the connections and add dielectric grease to each. Get a meter and check for continuity, resistance and shorts.
Good luck!

[hoodellyhoo]

Liaudio: Even though I know I have to, I sure hate to replace those tires. The look almost new cause my dad replaced them shortly before the bike went kaput. I am looking around for the best deal on a MC rebuild kit (one for 30 or so on ebay). And what's so wrong with flip flops? You get some killer weight savings by wearing them

Gold01ca: I've been looking into chains and sprockets. Not sure what to go with for a chain, I need to do some more reading about them here on the forums. The only one I've sen for sale was on Ebay Express and was about 55-60 bucks I think. Maybe there's something cheaper? As far as sprockets, haven't really seen new ones for sale much. Maybe I'll check what they cost from Service Honda. See above comment on flip flops.

Loonymoon: Thank you for the compliments on the bike. I admire yours as well. I also enjoy reading your stories from realclassic. I really wish mine had pipes like yours!!!!

Jay B: Thanks for the seat advice, I'll try that next time I work on her. There's a slight chance I'd buy your valve cover, but first I'll try fixing mine (maybe some JB weld would work?) And I'm sorry to say that I plan on holding on to these exhausts as long as they last. I'm not a fan of how the 350 looks with a 4-1 system and original or aftermarket 4-4's are crazy expensive. I really like how this system looks. The only other time I've seen one like it was on a 500 or 550.


Question for you all:  Does anybody know the life expectancy of the cam chain? Someone once said around 10,000 miles is what to expect. I did buy a new guide and tensioner blade and I'm wondering if I should start looking at cam chains as well. I have zero knowledge about about chains in general so I'm not to sure what to look at. I just know I don't want to be splitting the cases.

[hoodellyhoo]

Keiths: Once I get the time, I deffinitely plan on cleaning all the connectors. Hopefully that solves the issue.

[kslrr]

My '72 350F had 20,000 miles on the clock when I bought it in the early '80's.  I replaced the cam chain when I did a complete rebuild at 80,000 miles.  During that time I replaced the tensioners twice.

ps, tell your gf she is a cutie and you are a lucky guy.  Nice bike and a girl that likes bikes!

[liaudio]

chains can be had for under $30. Click here:  http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=415&productId=p119975100&leafCatId=41505&mmyId=

you'll need to know how many links you have for an easy install.  You may not need to replace the chain and sprockets unless it is heavily worn or rusty.

I wouldn't recommend spending a lot on a chain.  The $100 x-ring chains just last longer and claim to have a little smoother roll.  The $100 chains certainly don't last 3x's longer though.  just keep it lubed and you wont have a problem.

I've used these guys for front master cylinder rebuild kits before. : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CB350-F-CB400-F-CB750-MASTER-CYLINDER-REBUILD-KIT_W0QQitemZ280105621185QQcategoryZ35592QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And if you have ANY doubt, REPLACE THE TIRES! (the same goes for any part on the bike.)  You don't want to leave anything to chance on a potentially deadly vehicle.

[Dennis]

chains can be had for under $30. Click here:  http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=415&productId=p119975100&leafCatId=41505&mmyId=

you'll need to know how many links you have for an easy install.  You may not need to replace the chain and sprockets unless it is heavily worn or rusty.

I wouldn't recommend spending a lot on a chain.  The $100 x-ring chains just last longer and claim to have a little smoother roll.  The $100 chains certainly don't last 3x's longer though.  just keep it lubed and you wont have a problem.

 

I'm not familiar with the 350 engine, but the very expensive sealed chains (o-ring or x-ring) as mentioned above are probably not a good choice. In addition to the reasons mentioned by liaudio, the chain may not fit in the space at the front sprocket due to the additional width. They also have additional drag from the seals at each link. I personally prefer a slightly better quality chain than the very basic selection which was suggested. You may also want to consider the following chain (EK SR Sport Series) which I use on some my bikes (including the 750)

http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=415&productId=p11195100&leafCatId=41505&mmyId=

[kslrr]

I have an o-ring chain on my 350F and it fit fine.

[Dennis]

I have an o-ring chain on my 350F and it fit fine.

As I said, I am not familiar with the 350 engine. Thanks for providing accurate information.

I know that the sealed chains are a problem on the 500/550's.

[loonymoon]

Loonymoon: Thank you for the compliments on the bike. I admire yours as well. I also enjoy reading your stories from realclassic. I really wish mine had pipes like yours!!!!

You can probably have pipes like mine - but I guess they're not a priority at the moment. As long as your header pipe are original and reach to approx where the foot peg (riders not pillion!) then you can fix the cans on the end. My header pipes had to be cut down slightly as they were a little too long.

If you want to know where to get the cans from I posted in the FAQ section about them.

[hoodellyhoo]

My '72 350F had 20,000 miles on the clock when I bought it in the early '80's. I replaced the cam chain when I did a complete rebuild at 80,000 miles. During that time I replaced the tensioners twice.

ps, tell your gf she is a cutie and you are a lucky guy. Nice bike and a girl that likes bikes!

Thanks for the info, by your statement my cam chain should be good for a while yet. It has been properly tensioned so it shouldn't be stretched or damaged. I wasn't in the mood to replace it anyway. And I wouldn't jump to conclusions about my girlfriend liking bikes. She takes a roll-her-eyes-and-sigh approach to me and my infatuation with bikes.

chains can be had for under $30. Click here: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=415&productId=p119975100&leafCatId=41505&mmyId=

you'll need to know how many links you have for an easy install. You may not need to replace the chain and sprockets unless it is heavily worn or rusty.

I wouldn't recommend spending a lot on a chain. The $100 x-ring chains just last longer and claim to have a little smoother roll. The $100 chains certainly don't last 3x's longer though. just keep it lubed and you wont have a problem.

I've used these guys for front master cylinder rebuild kits before. : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CB350-F-CB400-F-CB750-MASTER-CYLINDER-REBUILD-KIT_W0QQitemZ280105621185QQcategoryZ35592QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And if you have ANY doubt, REPLACE THE TIRES! (the same goes for any part on the bike.) You don't want to leave anything to chance on a potentially deadly vehicle.

chains can be had for under $30. Click here: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=415&productId=p119975100&leafCatId=41505&mmyId=

you'll need to know how many links you have for an easy install. You may not need to replace the chain and sprockets unless it is heavily worn or rusty.

I wouldn't recommend spending a lot on a chain. The $100 x-ring chains just last longer and claim to have a little smoother roll. The $100 chains certainly don't last 3x's longer though. just keep it lubed and you wont have a problem.

I'm not familiar with the 350 engine, but the very expensive sealed chains (o-ring or x-ring) as mentioned above are probably not a good choice. In addition to the reasons mentioned by liaudio, the chain may not fit in the space at the front sprocket due to the additional width. They also have additional drag from the seals at each link. I personally prefer a slightly better quality chain than the very basic selection which was suggested. You may also want to consider the following chain (EK SR Sport Series) which I use on some my bikes (including the 750)

http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=415&productId=p11195100&leafCatId=41505&mmyId=

Again, thank you for the helpful information. I shouldn't be asking questions without searching for answers first, but don't I need some rivet/link tool to install a chain?

Loonymoon: Thank you for the compliments on the bike. I admire yours as well. I also enjoy reading your stories from realclassic. I really wish mine had pipes like yours!!!!

You can probably have pipes like mine - but I guess they're not a priority at the moment. As long as your header pipe are original and reach to approx where the foot peg (riders not pillion!) then you can fix the cans on the end. My header pipes had to be cut down slightly as they were a little too long.

If you want to know where to get the cans from I posted in the FAQ section about them.

Unfortunately the original header pipes are long gone. All is well as I am perfectly satisfied with what's on the bike right now. But thank you anyways.

[loonymoon]

Loonymoon: Thank you for the compliments on the bike. I admire yours as well. I also enjoy reading your stories from realclassic. I really wish mine had pipes like yours!!!!

You can probably have pipes like mine - but I guess they're not a priority at the moment. As long as your header pipe are original and reach to approx where the foot peg (riders not pillion!) then you can fix the cans on the end. My header pipes had to be cut down slightly as they were a little too long.

If you want to know where to get the cans from I posted in the FAQ section about them.

Unfortunately the original header pipes are long gone. All is well as I am perfectly satisfied with what's on the bike right now. But thank you anyways.

Well i'm sure you could probably come across some original headers if you ever did want to change the pipes - they're a lot easier to find than  the full exhaust system.

But as you say your system is perfectly fine and TBH looks a damn sight nicer than the homebrew 2-2 system that was on my bike!!

[liaudio]

you dont need a special tool to remove /install a chain unless it is longer than the one you have on there now.  Count the links.  then order the right chain.

[schneider419]

wow!!! thats a dead ringer for my 350/4 except mine is a 72. i thought i was looking at my bike. you can find heads on ebay all the time. they are not cross country bikes, but for local riding,they are great. they like high test gas, but it is still a cheap ride. have fun.
                                                       mike

[okie]

I have done a 390 mile trip on my 350F.  Just to make it more interesting, we were two-up.  I took two days to do the trip.  No problems except sunburn.  I know that may not be 'cross country', but it isn't exactly riding around the neighborhood, either.

[hoodellyhoo]

I just got done with school yesterday so now I finally have time to get working on the bike. Two weeks ago I  spent my birthday installing the rear grab bar I bought off ebay but I didn't get any pics. So today I took some pictures. I also did some investigating into things and the news isn't good. Unless I did something wrong, it seems my cam chain adjusting mechanism is stuck (#$%&%$!!!). I pushed down on the adjuster bolt and I couldn't get it to move for nuthin.

As far as my seat lock, I think I'm gonna try buying a key from one of the sellers on ebay. That way I could use my steering lock as well.

Next on the to do list is probably to buy a battery and start tracking down my electrical problem. I'll soon be getting my master cylinder kit so I can take care of that. And I'll take the rocker cover off and get my new tach gear installed (thanks to mack808). I think I'll save the carb rebuild for a little later.

[Seyser]

Looks good! Keep at it, thats half the fun with these cycles!

[hoodellyhoo]

Today marked the begining of major surgery. I took off the coils on Friday and today I tackled removing the rocker cover. It took longer than I thouhgt it would. The breather cover was a bit stubborn, but some gentle heating with my sister's hair dryer cured that. I was rewarded with a very good looking valve train, all bearing surfaces look great. I still haven't decided wether I want to replace my rocker cover because of the broken housing for the tach cable or not. Even though they're getting replaced, the tensioner and guide blades looked quite good with a decent enough amount of material still on them. Next step  is to see what I can do about the stuck cam chain adjuster arm and I may just take the carbs off while I'm at it. Replacement keys and master cylinder rebuild kit are in the mail and a shipment of oil seals arrived today from service honda (a place I highly reccomend).

Some pics of today's efforts.







A VERY helpful trick I got off of this site.

[keiths]

I agree. Thats a great trick.