Topic: Pods Thread

[seaweb11]

I got them from a local motorcycle shop (Lee's Cycles).  From what I can gather the main jet type is pretty popular it's the 77-78 slow jets that are hard to find.

I've read all 20 pages of this thread and countless others.  It's taken me about 2.5-3 months to get to this point. I was starting to believe that it couldn't be done.  It would have been a lot easier to just stick with the box.  But the drag pipes would have caused me to re-jet anyway. However, I doubt it would have been as hard to jet for exhaust alone vs the pods and exhaust.

At some point you must have read I used 138's 

[Coyote13]

Zing

[RYNO]

RYNO, was the stock slow jet in '77 a 35 like in '78? And how diffifult was the swap considering that they're pressed in?

Yes they were.  Or at least that is what mine came with. Well, removing them isn't the easiest thing in the world to do but it isn't the hardest either.  Just remember that they are brass! They won't crush but they will snap.  So squeeze really hard and twist without tilting from side to side and they will come out.

I got them from a local motorcycle shop (Lee's Cycles).  From what I can gather the main jet type is pretty popular it's the 77-78 slow jets that are hard to find.

I've read all 20 pages of this thread and countless others.  It's taken me about 2.5-3 months to get to this point. I was starting to believe that it couldn't be done.  It would have been a lot easier to just stick with the box.  But the drag pipes would have caused me to re-jet anyway. However, I doubt it would have been as hard to jet for exhaust alone vs the pods and exhaust.

At some point you must have read I used 138's

Yes I have  I messaged you asking about the jets and your tracy tank! As I said before Thanks!
see thread http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=78009.0

[Kemp]

Main jet - 110
pilot - #38 (stock)
Needle - 3rd clip (one notch richer than stock)
air screw - 1.5 turns out.

Kemp I am not sure about your needle position.  My CB550F needles are set at 4th notch (#1 being at the top of the needle) and I have a stock airbox with a stock 4 into 1 header and MAC muffler. 

It seems like you might have gone leaner on the needle.  However you have larger mains than stock, maybe that puts your needle in the correct spot.  Please keep us posted, I'd like to know in case I switch to pods someday.

I had gone richer (raised the needle) but it was still soft/fluffy especially when I would rev the engine for downshifting. I went back to the stock setting (slot #2 from the top of the needle), main jet #100 and the bike runs much better. I think I could go up a bit on the main, maybe to a 102 or 105 although the plugs look okay, certainly not lean. I think it had a bit more jump with the bigger 110 main but I sort of made 2 changes at once (leaned out needle and dropped main) so I've confused myself. Will try just a bit larger main to see if it helps.

[gnarlycharlie4u]

I know that there are different brands of the air cleaner pods I am looking for. I am looking to replace the stock air cleaner set up on my cb500 and cb550. What is the cheapest source for these pods? I hear that they can be had for somewhere around $10 each.

be forewarned... you generally get what you pay for.
that being said, I've gotten great deals from other members here. (Thanks guys)
of course... Ebay as well.

I have K&N filters and uni foam pods both work wonderfully.

the uni's go on my CR's which are stock jetting from factory and seem to be working alright. I also ordered a jet kit which I have yet to use. I will hang on to the jets for when I port the heads.

[TwoTired]

Does anyone know of a Pod filter that has an internal design like the one below, AND fits on Cb550 or Cb750 carbs?

Cheers,

[Soos]

Two tired, have you thought of trying to make a "nose cone" like the one you want to find, and epoxy them into an existing set of pod filters?


l8r

[TwoTired]

Yes, but that is only half the problem.  Do you know of any pods that radius the primary funnel near the carb mouth?  In some ways, I think that is more important.

Cheers,

[Freaky1]

I would think, much like the "nose cone" section you could make a adapter for the primary funnel. I've got a set of UNI-pods that have volunteered to be test animals. I plan to replace them with some nice oval K&N's shortly and not sure if I want to go postal on an expensive set but if I can make it work with the UNI's then maybe I'll feel more confident.

I agree with you TT, I think the carb mouth is the more important factor in this equation.

[TwoTired]

I agree with you TT, I think the carb mouth is the more important factor in this equation.

Don't forget about the "step" at the carb entrance, either.  Don't most pods go around the outside diameter of the carb mouth and avoid or ignore matching the inside diameters of the pod outlet to the carb inlet?  That is yet another turbulence producing artifact.

Cheers,

[Freaky1]

I agree with you TT, I think the carb mouth is the more important factor in this equation.

Don't forget about the "step" at the carb entrance, either.  Don't most pods go around the outside diameter of the carb mouth and avoid or ignore matching the inside diameters of the pod outlet to the carb inlet?  That is yet another turbulence producing artifact.

Cheers,

+1

I had an idea of trying to use the stock venturi from the original air box in a custom K&N setup. Someone had posted about an one piece oval K&N filter that turned on side would clear all four carbs, but couldn't remember the part number.

[sscardefield]

Running MAC 4-1 open and 35mm EMGO pods (the ones that clear the frame) on a '76 550k. 

Sorry for bringing this thread back, but I am just about done with my first complete rebuild and am ready to dig into the carbs. I have just spent the last 3 hours reading various threads/articles  (including this entire thread) on carbs and how they work and what other people are running and blah blah blah. I think I have a pretty good grasp on it now, but am just confused on the main jet sizing. In this thread it is mentioned that certain jets are measured by hole diameter and others by flow. This is where I am confused.

The Keihin main jets come in increments of 5 (100, 105, 110, etc). So if you were to go by the formula posted earlier in this thread (http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Jetting_Rules_of_Thumb_W43C551.cfm), would a +5 size be a 105 or 125? In other words is a "size" an increment of 1 or 5 (+1 size is 100 to 101 or 100 to 105)? I'm just finding it hard to understand on how one guy can say he's running EMGO pods with open MAC 4-1 with 105's and it's running perfect and another guy can say he's running 125's with the same setup and it's running perfect. Obviously there is going to be some variation between bikes, and of course other variables to take into consideration (elevation, temp, etc), but doesn't that seem like an extreme difference?

Thanks in advance.

[scunny]

 on Keihin main jets the numbering equals size, eg 110 = 1.1mm
can't help you on the formula. I'm running a 650 with unrestricted 4 into 1 and unifilters. 120 mains and runs sweet. trying 130 this weekend to see what change if any happens.

[TwoTired]

I'm just finding it hard to understand on how one guy can say he's running EMGO pods with open MAC 4-1 with 105's and it's running perfect and another guy can say he's running 125's with the same setup and it's running perfect. Obviously there is going to be some variation between bikes, and of course other variables to take into consideration (elevation, temp, etc), but doesn't that seem like an extreme difference?

Yes, it does.  The problem is that "guy's" reports are subjective and not calibrated to any sort of standard that can be reproduced.  "Perfect" can mean they were able to drive around the block and then type on the computer to post a brag.
Or, it can mean they drove across country with no other problems than stopping at every gas station for a fill up.

Still others, use very large mains and then over lean the slide needles to make the midrange tolerable (meaning, not perfect or actually correct at all throttle position between 1/4 and 3/4).

It is very rare that any actual, measureable performance testing is actually done, whether it be timed track events or a graph produced by a dyno.

No one has a calibrated butt dyno.  And many times, the ears hear louder sounds and the brain thinks, "wow, its faster since it makes more noise".

I believe the "formulas" bandied about are largely fiction, whose main goal is to give a false sense of well being in the experimenter.
Ever see the "formulas" tested or reinforced by dyno results?  Me either.

IMO
Cheers,

[edbikerii]

The "formulas" are not entirely accurate, but my be a guideline with a safety margin on the rich side.

Remember that the 77-78 are different carbs altogether from the earlier models, so the jetting will most certainly be different.  The air passages are different.

I don't think I'm one of the "ride around the block and brag" types, as I went through quite a bit of trouble to ensure my carbs were jetted properly.  In particular, I tuned for the lowest running temps using my infra-red thermometer.  However, I DID NOT put my bike on an exhaust gas analyzer, nor did I dyno tune it.  I have put several thousand trouble free miles on my bike since I rejetted it, though.

Please read the posts in my sig if you want to see just what was involved in my carb tuning work.  I'm not knocking anyone else's experiences or preferences with their bikes, but I'd advise you to read the posts so you are more familiar with what is involved.

Good luck.

[vern401]

I may be lucky but on 2 of my bikes that have pods on them I have not had to rejet them.
I got my pods from Ebay for about $40 per set of 4 pods. my main problem is rust in the tanks and wore out float valves not the pods.

[xedge4lifex]

76 550
Emgo Pods
stock carbs second to bottom clip
screw half turn out
ported head
low restriction exhaust
        Ran pretty solid, hot, cranked out 105 on the speedo, air bog at  anything under 3k @ 50% or more throttle

*2-13-12 Update*
Emgo Pods
110 jets
Bottom clip position
screw one and a half turn out
ported head
low restriction exhaust
      Runs like a hall and oates song, very smooth, pulls from any rpm like a rocket, top end power is insane, ill play with the air fuel screw and see if i cant get it a little leaner on idle, other than that, very recommended upgrade.

[Ryan66]

interesting reading for usre

[heffay]

73 cb350f
4-2 pipes

Swapped to pods while living a mile high in CO.  It ran less than ok, but I accepted it.  After moving to AZ and 1000ft, ran like crap!

Borrowed some jets from the 400f carbs that its not using...

Went from 70 to 75 main jets
Went from 35 to 40 slow jets
Fiddling with # of turns out... It seems to like 1 3/4

Anyway, pulled a long hill at 85 no problem, revs clean all the way thru, still needs a bit of choke for the perfect range, and has a higher idle than prefered.  Runs very well tho, aside from that.

[Freaky1]

73 cb350f
4-2 pipes

Swapped to pods while living a mile high in CO.  It ran less than ok, but I accepted it.  After moving to AZ and 1000ft, ran like crap!

Borrowed some jets from the 400f carbs that its not using...

Went from 70 to 75 main jets
Went from 35 to 40 slow jets
Fiddling with # of turns out... It seems to like 1 3/4

Anyway, pulled a long hill at 85 no problem, revs clean all the way thru, still needs a bit of choke for the perfect range, and has a higher idle than prefered.  Runs very well tho, aside from that.

Gotta Love that heavy air!

[andrewk]

The problem is that "guy's" reports are subjective and not calibrated to any sort of standard that can be reproduced.  "Perfect" can mean they were able to drive around the block and then type on the computer to post a brag.
Or, it can mean they drove across country with no other problems than stopping at every gas station for a fill up.

Still others, use very large mains and then over lean the slide needles to make the midrange tolerable (meaning, not perfect or actually correct at all throttle position between 1/4 and 3/4).

It is very rare that any actual, measureable performance testing is actually done, whether it be timed track events or a graph produced by a dyno.

No one has a calibrated butt dyno.  And many times, the ears hear louder sounds and the brain thinks, "wow, its faster since it makes more noise".

I believe the "formulas" bandied about are largely fiction, whose main goal is to give a false sense of well being in the experimenter.
Ever see the "formulas" tested or reinforced by dyno results?  Me either.

IMO
Cheers,

I agree that most people that talk about doing this haven't done the necessary testing required to ensure that the AF ratio was correct throughout the range, but I don't think that means it can't be done.

In my experience, the people who are doing it right rarely have enough time or care to talk about it on the internet.

However, I also agree that for 95 percent of people, pods are unnecessary and will only hold you back.

[steam-powered man]

am running emgo pods, Jardine turnouts, stock engine and ignition, 086A carbs.  engine is very strong throughout the rpm range, including a WFO run from 50 to 75mph today in top gear.  wants to keep pulling but i ran out of road and nerve.  i hope to attend one of those "dyno dayz" this summer so i can see if my "seat dyno" is accurate.   

i'm not sure why the bike is running so well.  i have an idea that running pods with a relatively restricted full length exhaust and also keeping the side covers on makes it a little easier than pods/open exhaust/no side covers.

here's what workin' for me, at 0 to 2000ft el:

76 cb750k (stock engine and ignition)
full tune up just done (carbs bench-balanced only)
emgo pods
jardine full length exhaust
086A carbs (stock)
slows -- 40
mains -- 110
27201 needles (no idea if these are stock)
needle clips in 2nd position up from bottom
air screws -- 1 1/4T

i'll do some plug chops at various rpms if anyone is interested

[wildrum88]

anyone know of some pods that have a 60mm opening but are 2.5" long? i need some really short ones to fit in my bike, I'm running some k&ns that are basically two pod filters connected together and they are a pain in the a*& to get in when doing carb work. Much appreciated!

[heffay]

anyone know of some pods that have a 60mm opening but are 2.5" long? i need some really short ones to fit in my bike, I'm running some k&ns that are basically two pod filters connected together and they are a pain in the a*& to get in when doing carb work. Much appreciated!

the only reason to use pods is to make it easier to R&R the carbs...







you're doin' it wrong.   

[Freaky1]

I plan to run K&N pods this time around. I went with UNI's last time and after having to deal with making sure I had (1) enough filter oil as the last time I oiled them, (2) evenly applied the oil, and (3) a way to get that crap off my hands I'd had enough. I'll stick with pods but no more oil.