Author Topic: Wheel and adjustable suspension Q and A...  (Read 1888 times)

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Offline babyfood1217

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Wheel and adjustable suspension Q and A...
« on: April 26, 2007, 06:55:40 AM »
Wheel Q's...
-I believe a good number of you have tried/are using older HD 16" wheels on the rear hubs (running 130's if I'm not mistaken.)  I'm curious if you happen to know the width of the rim itself.  I'm trying to find a 17" rim that is a little wider that my rear wheel (1976 750k rim is what, 2 1/4" wide?)  The only option I thought I had was finding a motocross rim with the desired diameter/width/spoke numbers, but I'm curious if perhaps harley ever put something with these dimensions on any of their rides.  I like the fatter look of the 130's when compared to the 110's, but the 16" seems a little too squatty for me, and I would also be afraid it would lower the bike a little too much.

Suspension Q's...
-Hopefully today, I'll order my progressive fork springs and new fork seals (gonna go through Dennis Kirk since shipping is free over $100 bucks, and I need a few other things.)  I've been looking at rear shocks lately as well, and I'm kind of in a dilemma about what type of shock would be ideal for me and my riding.  Perhaps some of you could provide insight (and trust me, I've scoured this forum and the "thoughts of Hondaman" FAQ re: suspension/spring issues, but I felt it was a different matter...

my weight: 180 lbs
normal luggage weight: 10-15 lbs
normal riding: highways, not too twisty, not too much in town.  roads are too bumpy, but aren't smooth as butter either.
passenger weight: 125 lbs
% time riding w/ passenger: ~50% when the bike is all ready to go.
average distance: 125 mi. +/- 25
longest distance foreseen riding: planning a trip to kansas with the passenger later this year

So, my riding does and will fluxuate quite a bit.  I really want to get some shocks that more adjustable that the stock and aftermarket shocks with just a lobed cam that rotates a few clicks (preload correct?)  With as many changes in road conditions, vehicle load, desired feel as I expect to encounter, I guess I'm curious if there are any better options out there than what I seem to be finding now.  The only thing I could think of would be find shocks from a kawa zrx1100/1200 or cb1000 (big one) that are more adjustable.  ZRX shocks are 14+ inches so would begin to affect geometry and handling I think, but...

Just curious if any of you know of anything.  Hope to hear some interesting responses.

Thanks-

Chris Gerber

I need help moving my project bike from Wisconsin to Seattle, WA.  Willing to pay well.  Contact if interested.

SOHC member: #438

Project: 1976 CB750K
GSXR forks, Monoshock Rear end, 836 in progress, RC51 pipes, custom frame and everything else.

Offline babyfood1217

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Re: Wheel and adjustable suspension Q and A...
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2007, 10:49:51 AM »
I hate bumping myself, but I'll only do it once...
I need help moving my project bike from Wisconsin to Seattle, WA.  Willing to pay well.  Contact if interested.

SOHC member: #438

Project: 1976 CB750K
GSXR forks, Monoshock Rear end, 836 in progress, RC51 pipes, custom frame and everything else.

Offline eurban

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Re: Wheel and adjustable suspension Q and A...
« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2007, 03:18:44 PM »
Couple of things.  I run a 130 width tire on my stock sized 78750k rear rim with no problems.  Perhaps you could simply fit a late 750 wheel.  If you are looking for shocks with a wide range of adjustability you can check out shocks made be Wilbers, Hyperpro, Works performance and YSS.  They all will offer shocks with a very wide range of spring preload adjustment (threaded bodies on the shocks allow you to a very large range) and all but the Works shocks will allow you rebound adjustment.  Good shocks come at a price though.  If you are seriously interested you might consider taking these esentially new high performance YSS shocks (stock 13.25 length) that I purchased for my 78K project off my hands. Lotsa preload adjustment and 50 clicks worth of rebound. I decided that they didn't fit the classic look that I was going for on my project.



« Last Edit: April 26, 2007, 03:20:38 PM by eurban »

Offline Ricky_Racer

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Re: Wheel and adjustable suspension Q and A...
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2007, 03:41:08 PM »

I'd really like the shocks for a road-race CB750 I'm building.  If Babyfood doesn't want them, I'm in if I can handle the price!  PM sent.  Thanks!  RR

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Offline babyfood1217

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Re: Wheel and adjustable suspension Q and A...
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2007, 04:23:53 PM »
PM with price and perhaps we can do business...

Thanks!

-Chris
I need help moving my project bike from Wisconsin to Seattle, WA.  Willing to pay well.  Contact if interested.

SOHC member: #438

Project: 1976 CB750K
GSXR forks, Monoshock Rear end, 836 in progress, RC51 pipes, custom frame and everything else.

Offline Jinxracing

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Re: Wheel and adjustable suspension Q and A...
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2007, 04:34:46 PM »
I'm trying to find a 17" rim that is a little wider that my rear wheel (1976 750k rim is what, 2 1/4" wide?)  The only option I thought I had was finding a motocross rim with the desired diameter/width/spoke numbers, but I'm curious if perhaps harley ever put something with these dimensions on any of their rides.  I like the fatter look of the 130's when compared to the 110's, but the 16" seems a little too squatty for me, and I would also be afraid it would lower the bike a little too much.

I had the same idea and went with an early (1977) GL1000 17" D.I.D. aluminum rear wheel for $50 on eBay. It came with a 130-width tire mounted and the 40-hole GL1000 hub intact. Obviously, it will need to be laced up to my CB750 hub, but Buchanon's said that it shouldn't be a problem and that a set of spokes would cost a little over $100. I don't know the specific width, but it appears to be a little bit wider than the stock CB750 rim. After the fact I read somewhere that the CB750A came stock with an aluminum 17" rear wheel. I don't know if a CB750A rear hub is the same as the standard K rear hub, but if it is you could buy a complete CB750A rear wheel–hub, spokes and all–and probably mount it right up.
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Offline eurban

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Re: Wheel and adjustable suspension Q and A...
« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2007, 06:32:20 PM »
I was under the impression that the GLs went Comstar in 77??  To the best of my knowledge both the front and rear alloy DID rims from the 75/76 GL1000s are identical in size to the steel DID rims that are stock on the 77 and 78 Ks. 19" front and 17" rear. They are also the same size as the alloy rims fitted to the spoked 750 autos. I have a 76GL1000 rear rim laced to my standard 78 750 rear hub.  I have had a 130 width tire mounted to the original stock rear rim and the new Gl rim with no problems.  I do not know for sure if the rear spokes from the 77/78K bikes can be used to lace the 17" rim to the earlier hubs but I would guess so.

Offline Jinxracing

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Re: Wheel and adjustable suspension Q and A...
« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2007, 07:59:09 PM »
I was under the impression that the GLs went Comstar in 77??

It's quite possible...the wheel I bought was advertised on eBay as a '77 but the seller certainly could have been mistaken.
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Offline HondaMan

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Re: Wheel and adjustable suspension Q and A...
« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2007, 08:17:09 PM »
Tips from the Hondaman-built cruisers of the 750 K days:

The Harley 16" rear rims require at least a 5.00 wide tire and make the bike rather unstable in corners, due to squarish profiles in those sizes. Most of the ones I was paid to lace on, I also got paid to remove a year or so later.

The 17" rears from the late K7-K8 can take the 130 size nicely (4.50 English size) and carry 50-70 lbs. more than the stock-issued 18"-4.00 sizes. I've even run 130 on my 18" rear, with adjustable air forks up front, with good results in heavy-load (600+ lbs) situations. I don't recommend canyon-racing in this configuration, however. :o

The stock shocks can be replaced with any number of 13" long shocks: with your weight numbers I would suggest a straight-wound spring profile in 120-lb spring for solo riding, on step 1 of the shock, set to 3 for 2-up casual rides, and set to step 4 or 5 with the 2-up plus packing load. Don't get longer shocks: the 750 has too little trail for touring speeds already, and longer shocks make the problem worse. You want MORE trail with heavier loads, and running the shocks about 1" to 1.5" compressed, but with harder spring, works out well. This leaves 2.5" to 3" of travel, plus tire cushion.

Also, check those steering head bearings: a small amount of "bump" or notchiness in them will make 30 MPH, heavy riding a real chore.
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