Author Topic: Clean that rusty gas tank! (Read 121959 times)

rfehrenb · « **Reply #150 on:** August 04, 2009, 07:38:13 pm »

I feel like a Mad scientist!!

steamnjn23 · « **Reply #151 on:** November 18, 2009, 07:38:14 am »

one quick point: if you hook the positive wire to the cleaning solution and the negative to the "iron rods", all the metal gunk in the solution will stick to one positive rod for easier cleaning.
i use a piece if 1/4 steel plate, hook the pos. electrode to it, the negative to the other rods and come back in about 4 hours. remove my piece of steel and cleaning of the solution is complete. its alot less messy this way

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #152 on:** November 28, 2009, 05:22:08 pm »

what are the different solutions that can be used to coat the tank after cleaning to prevent flash rusting? will any of these work:
WD40
Gasoline
Engine Oil
any other household items?

realride4130 · « **Reply #153 on:** November 09, 2010, 09:31:27 pm »

I just gave this trick a go tonight and it seems to have worked great running at 6 amps for a couple of hours. My only issue is that my tank was previously reconditioned so the coating was originally placed over rust to start with. Now as a result all that junk is just peeling off exposing new patches of rust. I think tomorrow night I'll give it another go and maybe add a splash of Muriatic acid for an extra kick.

This is a great and cheap trick and I wish I would have tried it earlier.

apex_seeking · « **Reply #154 on:** November 10, 2010, 09:05:29 am »

I just did this to a junkyard tank I picked up for $10 and I probably could have talked him down if I really wanted to. Something I discovered that I had seen mentioned was to dilute the washing soda in warm water first, then add to the tank. I added the soda to the tank as a powder, added water from the hose and when I drained the tank I discovered I had a brick of rock hard washing soda stuck to the bottom of my tank. I literally had to pound it out with a stick of rebar. Just my .02.

Kong · « **Reply #155 on:** November 13, 2010, 04:55:45 am »

I haven't read all seven pages of responses to this post but I did want to point out a little thing that was misstated in the original post. Electricity does not 'move' from positive to negative, it 'moves' from negative to positive. Electrons are negatively charged, the more of them the greater the negative charge, and like everything else, electrons 'move' from an area of high concentration to areas of low concentration given a suitable conduit to do so.

Ouch · « **Reply #156 on:** December 03, 2010, 09:48:03 am »

I just got back from Wal-Mart (buying "The Works") and there was a recal!!!! AN ENTIRE EMPTY SHELF!!!! WILL THE MADNESS NEVER END!!!

maliveline · « **Reply #157 on:** January 15, 2011, 09:18:29 am »

So I have a rusty gas tank and I thought about trying this method. Luckily I have a rusty gas cap that I could test this out on. I know what your thinking whats lucky about a rusty gas cap? Well let me explain... First of all I hooked up the negative wire from my battery charger to the steel rod I was using as an electrode exactly as it says to do in the beginning of this post. Then I hooked up the positive wire to the Item that I wanted to remove rust from in this case it was my gas cap. Had it been my gas tank I probably would have got my pistol out and started shooting innocent bystanders because I would be so #$%*ing pissed.

PHeller · « **Reply #158 on:** March 18, 2011, 08:23:06 am »

I need some advice:

I've got two tanks for CB400F.

Tank 1) Sealed with Kreme, small leak where previous owner tried to JB Weld a pinhole. Kreme job wasn't that great, doesn't look smooth. Possible missed spots? A few dents.

Tank 2) No leaks, but pitting has started inside tank. No bad flaking of rust, but it has started. Has dents but they are easier to fix.

Question on Tank 1) Should I redo the liner? How to keep the leak from reoccurring?

Question on Tank 2) Should I put a liner in this tank or just clean the rust out and ride?

havnjero · « **Reply #159 on:** April 03, 2011, 08:19:57 pm »

1) I have no good suggestions about your first question, mostly due to lack of experience with kreme.

2) I'd put aquarium gravel in the tank after removing the petcock and sealing up the tank. wrap it in towels or bubble wrap, and put it in the dryer to toss around for an hour. after that, empty, flush with water.. a LOT of water.. then do the coathanger electrolysis with a low amp charger (positive on the coathanger). (see reply #28: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=21623.25)

I've experimented with zinc galvanization, and it is very easy: get a zinc pencil from a marine store, and put it in the tank then reverse the polarity! put the positive on the tank and the neg on the anode. let it cook a few days or until the anode is gone.

you'll be all set.

PHeller · « **Reply #160 on:** April 04, 2011, 05:55:48 am »

havnjero, do you use the zinc pencil as a anode or just drop it in where-ever? How have your experiments gone?

Spades · « **Reply #161 on:** April 17, 2011, 05:06:48 pm »

I am going to be doing this shortly and what is the best method for sealing after the fact? I have seen all kinds of people say different things but the only ones that have said they actually did it was the oil and the zinc. Which one is actually better?

Broke1 · « **Reply #162 on:** April 28, 2011, 07:11:14 pm »

Hello to all,
I have a garden tiller. And the tank had some kind of black thick crud in the bottom. This stuff was about as thick as a quater. I took it to the local lawn mower shop and the man told me just to buy a new one. Or I could take some small rocks
drop them in the tank and shake it awhile. Got home and tried that. Everything I put into the tank just stuck to the bottom. So I went to the comp. And I happeded upon your disscusion board. So I thought I would give this a try.
I poured half a box of salt into the tank. Filled it with water. Shook it awhile.
I got a long bolt about the size of a thick pencle. Hooked it up red to the bolt.
Black to the tank.
About 10 amps. In a few minutes my tank stated pukeing up
the black crap and some rust. I let it run for 2 hrs. Then realized I had the battery charger hooked up backwards. And the bolt I used was about as thick as a toot pick.
I was amazed at how much crap came out. So I flused everything out and started again. Got me another bolt and this time hooked up the Black to the bolt. Red to the tank. ran it for 1 1/2 hrs. More crude puked up.. But still not spotless inside the tank. Now I am out of salt. So I am trying it again with vingar. My amps have fallen to almost nothing. So I took what little salt mabey 2 onces left and put it in as well.
Hopeing to bring up my amps. So now its at 3 amps. I was going to leave it on over night and see what happens.
I do want to say a BIG thank you to ksmith0034.
Its not there yet but its a big help.

roy1 · « **Reply #163 on:** May 31, 2011, 07:18:07 pm »

I keep my tank filled and have little rust so far..

havnjero · « **Reply #164 on:** August 10, 2011, 03:19:29 pm »

sorry for the delayed reply.

after the coathanger trick I've used the oil method, galvanizing, and have used an interior sealer kit (caswell - which is reported to be the best <and they warranty that>).

my galvanized tank worked well, though it took a while. I used a large/long pencil zinc as an anode but with reverse polarity to that of the coathanger anode (used before in luring the rust off of the tank wall). this reversed the process, putting zinc on the wall instead.

the caswell lining process was simple, very effective and FAST. if you want this resolved overnight get a caswell kit. it works fine after tossing in some nuts and bolts, acetone, and shaking a few times. it actually works better when the tank is rusty inside still (so they say, but I cannot disprove that).

best of luck!

thomellis · « **Reply #165 on:** September 05, 2012, 09:21:28 pm »

I have to admit, going in to this, I wasn't really sure what to expect. I didn't want to get my hopes up too much, for 50 cents and my time, I have to say this was incredible. I was amazed how well it turned out, and it only took a couple hours of moving the rod around. Really glad I gave it a shot.

kybushdr · « **Reply #166 on:** February 25, 2013, 01:25:36 pm »

Use bio safe citric acid, message me for details, posted elsewhere but can't type on my phone very well.

volare71 · « **Reply #167 on:** November 12, 2013, 08:08:26 am »

A couple of additions.
1. Washing soda, Sodium carbonate not baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is better than table salt.
2. for larger items use a big plastic container or a leak proof plastic tarp in a hole. Fill with water and soda and attach negative cathode to rusty item and positive anode to a piece of rebar that is not touching the piece to be derusted.

Relik · « **Reply #168 on:** June 15, 2014, 05:13:24 pm »

YOu mentioned you coated the inside of the tank with tranny fluid..?? Am I reading this right? and if so do you fill your tank up with TF then drain it? I'm confused

ryanj · « **Reply #169 on:** June 16, 2014, 07:19:06 pm »

Just put a bit in there and shake or swirl it around so it coats the sides/top. The other option, that worked for me, was spraying some Krown oil inside the tank as it's just a light oil (like WD40) that displaces water and prevents rust.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #170 on:** June 17, 2014, 01:35:55 am »

Quote from: Relik on June 15, 2014, 05:13:24 pm

YOu mentioned you coated the inside of the tank with tranny fluid..?? Am I reading this right? and if so do you fill your tank up with TF then drain it? I'm confused

Man!!!!....That would be an a$$load of ATF

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Author Topic: Clean that rusty gas tank! (Read 121959 times)

rfehrenb

Broke1