Topic: Clean that rusty gas tank!

[pyro139]

What about just a plug from the wall?

 you need a DC source, AC would tend to cycle the rust removal from the tank to the bar and back again.

 Many other 'chemicals' work for the electrolite, washing soda,baking soda etc, someone claimed to have used flat cola, main criteria is that it is conductive.

Ken.

chemstry class along time ago, we used cola it a cool electrolite prob is very acidic and can deteriate metal.

[pyro139]

just wasted half a day, wasnt getting any results then after almost 3 hour relized metal is painted need sand some off to get contact

[GNXFan]

I have a K3 tank that I'm going to try to do the entire tank in a big plastic tub. I have everything I think I need. I'll report the results this weekend when I have time to do the job.

[pyro139]

i was wondering if this method might work to clean up my exhaust, then nickle plate it

[Hope]

I have a K3 tank that I'm going to try to do the entire tank in a big plastic tub. I have everything I think I need. I'll report the results this weekend when I have time to do the job.

Wonder what his results were - he never got back to us!

FYI - Rust Removal using Electrolysis
An Example Of What Can Be Achieved
Frequently asked questions about Electrolytic derusting

More links with pics:
http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html  <--- really good explanation & pics
http://twinoak.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html <------ gives a diagram of how to do it w/ good pics
http://www.thepontiactransampage.com/rust.html
http://www.instructables.com/id/E17UQMY28PEQ6T2A5Z
http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?s=0f0ce04586e64fd9e945198d60e0dea3&t=13110&showall=1  <----- this guy did the entire tank (scroll all way down for "after" results)

[pyro139]

my filler port is shiny as new but electrolosys didnt remove varnish guess needs rust under varnish for it to remove the varnish.

[tbone]

my filler port is shiny as new but electrolosys didnt remove varnish guess needs rust under varnish for it to remove the varnish.

Actually pyro the varnish will block the transfer of electrons. You should remove all the varnish first. In electroplating if you only wanted to plate say half of a shaft you'd lacquer the area you didn't want plated.

Oh, BTW, I tried copper plating the inside of a metal bucket today with the copper sulphate solution. worked slicker than snail snot! 
should work equally as well in a tank.

[pyro139]

my filler port is shiny as new but electrolosys didnt remove varnish guess needs rust under varnish for it to remove the varnish.

Actually pyro the varnish will block the transfer of electrons. You should remove all the varnish first. In electroplating if you only wanted to plate say half of a shaft you'd lacquer the area you didn't want plated.

Oh, BTW, I tried copper plating the inside of a metal bucket today with the copper sulphate solution. worked slicker than snail snot! 
should work equally as well in a tank.

would the curves of the centre channel cause uneven palting? well as for varnish inhibiting the electrons i discovered that already

[pyro139]

my filler port is shiny as new but electrolosys didnt remove varnish guess needs rust under varnish for it to remove the varnish.

Actually pyro the varnish will block the transfer of electrons. You should remove all the varnish first. In electroplating if you only wanted to plate say half of a shaft you'd lacquer the area you didn't want plated.

Oh, BTW, I tried copper plating the inside of a metal bucket today with the copper sulphate solution. worked slicker than snail snot! 
should work equally as well in a tank.

where would one get copper sulfate is there any praticular products be sold as or just copper sulphate, ie.. phospheric acid and hydra-cloric are both commercial grade toilet cleaners.

[pyro139]

also tbone not for tank want try something what solution and electrode would use to nickle plate?

[GNXFan]

Here are the pics of my K3 tank experiment. It didn't really work all that well removing the rust but I didn't use a 10 amp charger either because I only had a 1 amp M/C charger to use. I am planning on trying this again with a bigger charger. I used plain water with 2 lbs. of table salt for my solution. The rod is an old 3/8" extension with one end cut off and clamped to the corner of the tub so it wouldn't touch the tank. I bought the plastic 90 qt. tub at walley world for $9.97.

[GNXFan]

More of my pics:

[pyro139]

i found stainless steel dont work well since it designed to prevent rust and you trying to get it to absorb rust grab coat hanger and sand the protective layer off

[GNXFan]

So Pyro139 you're saying to substitute the extension rod for a coathanger?

[pyro139]

So Pyro139 you're saying to substitute the extension rod for a coathanger?

ya any thing that is not stainless steel, just dont use the wooden or plastic hangers

[tbone]

my filler port is shiny as new but electrolosys didnt remove varnish guess needs rust under varnish for it to remove the varnish.

Actually pyro the varnish will block the transfer of electrons. You should remove all the varnish first. In electroplating if you only wanted to plate say half of a shaft you'd lacquer the area you didn't want plated.

Oh, BTW, I tried copper plating the inside of a metal bucket today with the copper sulphate solution. worked slicker than snail snot! 
should work equally as well in a tank.

where would one get copper sulfate is there any praticular products be sold as or just copper sulphate, ie.. phospheric acid and hydra-cloric are both commercial grade toilet cleaners.

Copper sulphate is sold as a root killer for drain pipes in glandular form. (hardware stores, plumbing supply houses, home centers, etc.)
Hydrochloric acid or Muriatic acid (a diluted form of hydrochloric acid) is used for cleaning masonry (bricks, mortar, concrete, etc.) and is also available in most of the above mentioned suppliers. 

[tbone]

my filler port is shiny as new but electrolosys didnt remove varnish guess needs rust under varnish for it to remove the varnish.

Actually pyro the varnish will block the transfer of electrons. You should remove all the varnish first. In electroplating if you only wanted to plate say half of a shaft you'd lacquer the area you didn't want plated.

Oh, BTW, I tried copper plating the inside of a metal bucket today with the copper sulphate solution. worked slicker than snail snot! 
should work equally as well in a tank.

would the curves of the centre channel cause uneven palting? well as for varnish inhibiting the electrons i discovered that already

An anode rod on both sides of the tank would alleviate this.

[tbone]

also tbone not for tank want try something what solution and electrode would use to nickle plate?

Nickel plating is more complicated. If it's something small check out Lance's electroless nickel plating kits at www.caswellplating.com
Lance is a good guy and very knowledgeable in the field of electroplating.

[pyro139]

tbone you try putting a little drop of fuel in bucket to see how it reacts with the copper plating?

[tbone]

tbone you try putting a little drop of fuel in bucket to see how it reacts with the copper plating?

Good idea! I'll try that.

[pyro139]

i'm still trying get my varnish prob solved, going need borrow few more bottles of sulpheric at work tonight and see if stronger solution works, what other kind electroplating easy do that would work as a tank liner? cause for seem reason i kind remember some warning in chemistry class about hydracarbons reacting with copper sulfates, but it kind fuzzy.

[merc2dogs]

 I don't see a problem with copper

 my sailboat has a fuel tank made of monel metal, which is a copper alloy, they used monel for it's superior corrosion resistance.
 My boat is a '67 pearson triton 28.5 foot, and the tank is just like new inside and out.
 
  Many fuel lines were made of copper tube in the old days.

  brass and bronze are some of the best fuel line fittings you can get, and they are both copper alloys.
 
 ken

[tbone]

i'm still trying get my varnish prob solved, going need borrow few more bottles of sulpheric at work tonight and see if stronger solution works, what other kind electroplating easy do that would work as a tank liner? cause for seem reason i kind remember some warning in chemistry class about hydracarbons reacting with copper sulfates, but it kind fuzzy.

Pyro, try the Gunk carburetor cleaner in the gallon cans. (the stuff with the dip basket in it) Plug up your bungs, dump in a couple gallons and let it work. Just reposition the tank every few hours to get it all. When you're done set the tank on a stand and open the petcock to transfer the stuff back into the cans. If you run it into a funnel with a couple of those big coffee filters you should be able to re-use the stuff later. I just picked up some at Advanced Auto Parts for $11.99 a gallon.

[pyro139]

well dont have time next few days go shopping, so if the phospheric dont work tuesday when i'm off just going take tank to a place near me and get it hot acid flushed for $50 3 gallons cleaner would run me more with what we pay up here for carb cleaner other day paid $7 for 1l (0.2gallon) of the spray in cleaner.
would the stuff you pour in gas tank work it suppose clean tank and cylinder as well as carbs?

[Walt]

Would this method work with painted parts, or would it remove the paint also? I have my swingarm off that has some rust on it, but I don't want to completely strip it.

I also have another question on this method. I just got a 400F that sat for 6 years with a rusty turpentine mix in the tank. I've tried to get all of the flaked off rust out, but it's difficult with the filler neck. Should I use a shop vac or something to get as much of it as I can out before trying the gunk for the varnish and then this?

Thanks,
Walt