Topic: cb750f clutch question from a newbie

[keepitrunin]

freeplay is good at lever end, but clutch releases(grabs) almost when lever is more than halfway to 3/4 of the way out from the bar. kind of hard to ride this way. is that normal or do i need to adjust the clutch? if adjustment is needed what is the best method? thank you for any helpfull responses.

[johnny-from-bel]

If play is OK. There is no regulation you can do.
I take that you did not use any friction enhancers or friction enhanced oil.
Either the clutch is worn or the clutch springs need replacing. You will have to take it appart and see.

[Kamal]

All bikes are different.

If you have a little bit of free play, and the clutch doesn't slip at all, and it doesn't grab when you have the lever all the way in, it works as it should.

Certainly, new or old plates, contaminated friction material, and different linkages will all affect the relationship between your lever position and where the clutch starts grabbing/locks up.

Sounds like things work well enough....

[Bodi]

Needs adjustment.
The adjustment procedure is in any of the assorted manuals - Honda, Haynes, Chilton, Clymer, or even the Honda owners pamphlet.
You first adjust the clutch lifter mechanism in the engine, then the free play on the lever with the cable adjuster on the engine end and/or the adjuster at the clutch lever end.
If all you want to do is adjust the lever position where the clutch releases, use the cable adjusters. If the one at the lever won't go far enough use the one at the engine end of the clutch cable.
It's important to adjust the engine clutch mechanism occasionally too.
If the clutch isn't working propoerly - slips or grabs - then you need to get into the actual clutch pack to fix the problem: usually it's worn or glazed friction plates, but the basket fingers can get grooved and cause grabbing too. Using certain automobile oils or oil additives - especially molybdenum stuff - can ruin the friction plates.

[keepitrunin]

i have had the bike for many years and never really ridden it. since i have had it (9000miles when purchased,9900 now) i have had a mechanic to it when i first got it. i just recently tuned it and used honda 10w40 oil. i adjusted it at the engine per clymers or haynes book. i adjusted the freeplay at the barend and also at the engine adjuster. i may be going the wrong way. can an experienced honda person tell me what direction would help. is tighter cable better or looser?are there alot of specialty tools involved to replace the clutch and basket? are the baskets even available still?

[moduleum]

It just so happens that I raised this question at about the same time as you!  See below thread.

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=21742.0

Adjusting the cable adjusters and stops on the clutch lever or the one attached to the clutch housing will only control the play in the cable.  They will not expand the range of engagement.  I played with mine for an hour or two over the weekend.  You can adjust these to ensure that the clutch is fully engaging and disengaging though.  My clutch was slipping a bit and it turned out that the clutch was not fully disengaging correctly, so adjusting the cable (on both ends) solved this problem.

Apparently turning the stop screw (by taking the clutch cover off) will adjust the range of engagement.  I am going to play with adjusting this screw tonight and report back.  Please do the same if you have time to mess with it.

-keith

[tmht]

Apparently turning the stop screw (by taking the clutch cover off) will adjust the range of engagement.  I am going to play with adjusting this screw tonight and report back.  Please do the same if you have time to mess with it.

-keith

Ding, ding, ding! That's exactly what I was talking about.

keepitrunnin,
Now that I am home (posting from work earlier, don't tell my boss) I had some time to go outside between thunderstorms and look at it. I am about 90% certain that you turn the screw counter clockwise. If someone remembers, hats off, my memory isn't that good as this isn't something you do very often. The I did this on my 400 (they work the same) and what I did was sit on the bike with it running and the lock nut loose and make a small turn one way, put it in gear and see how it felt. There really isn't a magic formula for this since you are now adjusting not only for proper operation, but for personal preference. I personally like my clutch to engage about .5" to .75" from the bar. Consequently I have to pull the lever a fair way to shift, but that is how I like mine set up. (and yes I know this will cause my springs to wear out faster, but they are cheap and relatively easy to replace.) You are just going to have to make small changes until it feels "right" to you. This isn't a particularly complicated job, you only need a phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver and a 10mm socket and about 30-45 minutes. And you aren't going to mess up your clutch unless you back that adjusting post all the way out. If you stick to 1/8 turn increments, you will only be moving the engagement just enough to notice that it has moved but not enough to prevent your clutch from engaging/disengaging properly, if you accidentally go the wrong way, just turn it back.

Also, I don't know your mechanic, or what he did. If you know and trust him, then 9900 would be a bit premature for the fiber plates in the clutch pack to wear out, though not impossible. I would plan on ordering a new clutch cover gasket on your next oil change, just so you can open it up and pull the clutch pack to inspect it.

[Kamal]

I disagree,

The set screw is simply another way to adjust the free play, in case the little screw adjuster on the lever is maxed out.

I think the only way to change anything but the free play is through changing the leverage point, either on the lever or where the cable attaches to the motor.

[tmht]

I disagree,

The set screw is simply another way to adjust the free play, in case the little screw adjuster on the lever is maxed out.

I think the only way to change anything but the free play is through changing the leverage point, either on the lever or where the cable attaches to the motor.

As the "lever" that the set screw is attached to is moved that screw pushes a the in that compresses the clutch springs. Changing the height of that pin changes how soon the springs compress enough to disengage the clutch plates thus changing the engagement point of the clutch. It works, I have done it, relatively recently. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the parts in question, so visualization will have to do for the moment.

[tmht]

This is from a 76 750F, they all pretty much work the same though.


1. Remove the cover.
2. Loosen lock nut #7
3. Turn the slotted end of screw #8 to change the point at which the clutch plates disengage as described above.