Topic: CB 350 one cylinder cutting out

[oconnor]

He guys,
 Took the 350 out to blow the cobwebs out thinking it just needed to be run. The RH cylinder runs perfect but the LH cylinder hardly fires at all. I noticed if I switch the petcock to off it will fire for maybe ten seconds then back to one cylinder. If I switch back to on it will again fire both sides for ten seconds. I was actually able to limp home by constantly switching on-off-on-again. I even tried the petcock somewhere between but couldn't keep both firing. I'm thinking rust collecting in the port of the fuel shut-off? It has in-line filters but they don't seem to fill with fuel, I can see it drip but I expected them to be half full or so.

Any suggestions? I guess I'm just glad it fuel delivery and not electrical.

[ohiocaferacer]

Also check your spark plug caps. Unscrew the spark plug cap on the bad cyclinder and check to make sure its screwing into good copper colored wire. If no copper wire can be seen in the middle of the wire....take some wire cutters and cut about 1/4" off the end. You should be able to see some wire in the middle of the black insulation(may be tarnish green copper wire)........now screw the plug cap back on.

I have not seen an old Honda that did not have corroded or missing wires at the spark plug cap connection.

Later,
Greg

[mgmuellner]

I'd start at the tank/petcocks & work your way twords the carbs. 

[bryanj]

Take the points cover right off and see if its OK them, many 250/350 had to run with insulating tape on the inside of the points covers to stop the points shorting out!

[oconnor]

I noticed it had some old paper-like stuff inside the cover. Didn't know what it was for.
I'll check this stuff this weekend. Thanks guys!

[oconnor]

Tried to start it up Saturday to check symptoms again. Fuel started running out of the LH pod filter. Bad. Pulled that carb, stuck my finger in the port. A puddle. Drained the oil. Yanked the bowl and checked float valve operation, it was good. Lowered the float a bit and put it back together. Cleaned the plugs, the LH flooded side was clean but wet, RH running side is black. Bike starts and runs on both cylinders now but WOT isn't great.

Are those air screws at the front of the carb? I have them backed out one turn, do I need more? Running pods and some nasty, overly loud, aftermarkt pipes.

[heffay]

when i read your first post my immediate thought was carb issues that only wandered as far as float issues in particular.

yep, i still think you've got carb issues.   

paper like stuff?  you mean the cork gasket?

[oconnor]

No, there is actually a sheet of paper-like material backing the chrome cover.

Went for a ride tonight. Anything over 5000rpms would miss badly. Checked the timing, way off. Set point gaps a little better up to 6000rpms now then starts to miss. Points are well worn so I'm ordering a new set. If I short-shift it runs great but what fun is that?

First decent ride I've had on it yet, and I really like the little guy. Too loud but I'll fix that when it's running right. Rode a bunch of gravel back-roads and had a blast. More elemental than my much newer bikes. Small, lightish feel and slower speeds give me time to look around and get into the ride more that my FZ1 ever did. I don't think I can sell it now...