Topic: Need Help starting my bike

[edosm]

Hello,

I'm trying to get my newly aquired Honda cb 750 started (1975) It was a bike that has not been ridden for 8 years and purchased on a repo.

After I had it for 6 months and fixed up Exterior...I decided to attempt to start it.

I need to know what indicator lights should light up once you put in the key and turn it on. So far I only get a OIL LIGHT lit...can't seem to get the Neutral Light to light up. could it be a neutral switch.

Also Bike does nothing once I push starter button. How Can I check Starter Solenoid or even bipass it..and go directly to starter motor..to see if starter cranks.

Rear turn signals are not hooked up...Will this some how affect all other GROUND wires. Can all the ground wires go to FRAME (green)

Any suggestion on where to begin with this bike.

Horn works though
No Headlights

Please help
Mike

[seaweb11]

Sounds completely Fuc$#ed. Ship it to me "your cost: and I will take this piece of crap off your hands.

Dude.  Open up the headlight bucket, get a wiring diagram....see if you are getting power to your ignition switch up front from the main harness.  Who cares if the neutral light goes one, check the bulb! it won't stop the bike from starting.

Can't wait to see TT's post on this one!
is it stock?
what pipes do you have?
Pods, or stock air filter.....just kidding TT

Seriously, you need a manual or at least do a search here for the wiring for your bike so  you can start some where. a simple idiot light has always found the grounds and power for me.

Good luck.

[csendker]

Oil light on with the ignition on & engine off is OK.  Oil light on with the ignition on & engine running is not OK.

The starter won't work unless it's in neutral (at least on my 550).  So, if the idiot light is dead, something else is wrong.  If the bike isn't actually in neutral, or the neutral switch is toast, the starter won't work.  To jump it out, you'll be needing that wiring diagram that has been recommended.  Get the whole service manual while you're at it - they're on the site to download (file or link...) somewhere.

The kicker works through the tranny (again, on my 550).  So put it in neutral, do not hold in the clutch and give it a kick to see what happens.  May be a bad starter.  I found that holding in the clutch defeats the kicker and you go through the first 1/2 year of owning one of these things thinking the kicker is busted until you finally have someone tell you the secret.  I guess it's not my old dirt bike after all.

The best bet is to start at the headlight bucket and make sure the wiring is OK.  Typically match like color to like color unless there's been some modifications, then it gets fun.  A wiring diagram is a must here.  And get some contact cleaner & electrical lube - clean up the connections while you're digging through the wiring loom.

[gold01ca]

neutral idiot light burned out?
find rolling neutral, hold clutch lever in and then hit starter button, should fire right up.

cheers!

[pyro139]

neutral idiot light burned out?
find rolling neutral, hold clutch lever in and then hit starter button, should fire right up.

cheers!

make sure in real neutral and not a fake neutral(gaps between geers that can let bike roll freely like its in nuetral,) on shifter click dow roll bike back fourth and repeat
until wont click down any more then gently pull up till feel first click thats neutral then try starting bike, if still dont work then try holding clutch and strting incase it neutral switch, as for lights not sure your model but most vehicles one dead turn signal bulb can stop all turn signals from working, and some bikes are wired that headlight only comes on when engine running.
and farther fetch but to be safe, when you turn key are you turning it right one click or turning it all the way right till it stops? all the way right on older bikes is park mode tail light comes on and all other electrical including starter and other lights are disabled it use inplace of hazard lights if p[arked on side road so bike is seen can remove key when ignition in this position.

[seaweb11]

idiot light

[gold01ca]

K3 model introduced the clutch safety switch, you gotta hold in the clutch lever to energize starter as well as be in neutral.
you can sit there all day on your K5 pushing your starter button but aint nothing gonna happen till you pull in the clutch lever.

cheers!

[pyro139]

K3 model introduced the clutch safety switch, you gotta hold in the clutch lever to energize starter as well as be in neutral.
you can sit there all day on your K5 pushing your starter button but aint nothing gonna happen till you pull in the clutch lever.

cheers!

why doesnt a 81 cb650c have that?

[seaweb11]

No such switch on a K8

[TwoTired]

I need to know what indicator lights should light up once you put in the key and turn it on. So far I only get a OIL LIGHT lit...can't seem to get the Neutral Light to light up. could it be a neutral switch.

Yes.  The bike shouldn't electric start unless the bike is in neutral or the clutch is pulled in.

Also Bike does nothing once I push starter button. How Can I check Starter Solenoid or even bipass it..and go directly to starter motor..to see if starter cranks.

The starter solenoid has two large posts and two small ones.  Applying 12 V across the two small ones activates the starter solenoid.

Rear turn signals are not hooked up...Will this some how affect all other GROUND wires.

Perhaps if Merlin the magician is feeling vindictive.

Can all the ground wires go to FRAME (green)

They are supposed to attach to the frame at one point.

Any suggestion on where to begin with this bike.

Horn works though
No Headlights

If the bike is an F model, the starter button press interupts the headlight and engages the starter solenoid (if clutch or neutral is in the proper position).

If this switch is destroyed (brake fluid disintegrates the plastic), it is possible both headlight and starter won't function.

Cheers,

[TwoTired]

K3 model introduced the clutch safety switch, you gotta hold in the clutch lever to energize starter as well as be in neutral.
you can sit there all day on your K5 pushing your starter button but aint nothing gonna happen till you pull in the clutch lever.

This is not true if the bike is still in factory configuration.   See pg 215 of the Honda shop manual.  The starter should engage whenever the trans is in neutral OR the clutch is pulled in.

No such switch on a K8

According to the wire diagram on pg 279, the K8 was delivered with both a neutral switch and a clutch switch.  It also has a Diode to perform the OR function for electric starting.

[seaweb11]

Yeh, I know...... when I put on the aftermarket turn sig/horn config it was missing   A lot of the bikes I have looked at have had those little rubber knob/ switches on the clutch Handel  broken off as well.

[gold01ca]

TT, guess my neutral safety switch is probably buggered cuz I need clutch lever in to energize starter,
thanks for the info.

cheers!

[seaweb11]

TT here a question for you. How would you override that switch no longer being there. I do of course need to be in neutral to start bike, and it's a bit of a pain.

[750goes]

Seaweb

I had a similar problem recently on the cb250 - The clutch switch is not working at the lever end (wires plug directly into the perch) so I just created a temporary loop of wire and plugged it into both  wires going to the diode.. now I can hit the starter switch anytime I feel like it, do not have to be in Neutral, but I do remember also to pull the clutch in if I have left the bike in gear.... simple fix and nothing too permanent it cannot be fixed properly at a later time (when I find a replacement switch/perch)..

[TwoTired]

TT here a question for you. How would you override that switch no longer being there. I do of course need to be in neutral to start bike, and it's a bit of a pain.

750goes has one way to defeat the clutch switch.  The early Cb500s had no saftety, either.
All you need to do is connect green/red to green.  I'd guess you'll find both inside the headlight shell where the clutch switch originally connected.  Then the push button switch will engage the starter regardless of neutral.
  Be aware, the bike parked on the side stand will lurch forward, fold up the side stand and fall on it's side at the push of the starter button while ignition is on and left in gear.

Are K8's as easy to put upright as the cb500?

Cheers,

[seaweb11]

Yeah, fall down go boom. I thought of that while driving back from the store after I had posted the question.

You would think I would remember......but maybe it won't be worth it   I usually just reach down with my left hand now and click it up after I have stopped.   It was a bit of a pain yesterday getting it going again on a hill with the BEAR 40ft from me on the side of the steep hill!!!!!!!!! It wasn't just the wife who was in a rush to get going again.....

appreciate your input and wise advice.

[TwoTired]

I do find the clutch switch advantageous.  Is there a reason why you don't shop for the correct clutch lever bracket, or drill and machine the one you have to accept the switch from the old control pod?

Cheers,

[clarkjh]

I pulled my switch and re-soldered the wires, only set of wires that didn't run through the bars.  Works like a charm now.

James

[seaweb11]

I do find the clutch switch advantageous. Is there a reason why you don't shop for the correct clutch lever bracket, or drill and machine the one you have to accept the switch from the old control pod?

Cheers,

The "pod" on there now just cost me $100.00 and is a brand new after market 750 replacement purchase. I got tired of re-wiring these things.
It's unfortunate that the new part does not have the switch attatched.   It's period perfect except for the lack of a switch.

[750goes]

Seaweb,

you need to buy this part as well

SWITCH, CLUTCH LEVER    35360-341-000   $18.22 (parts fiche search)

http://www.morgantownhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

hope that helps 

[seaweb11]

They don't show a photo of part and if it is like the original part I don't think there is a hole in the mount for the rubber thingy?
I'll have to check mine again.

[pyro139]

you get bike started yet?

[seaweb11]

Thanks 750goes   I indeed do hve the hole there on the new one. Just ordered.

[edosm]

No luck starting bike yet..

 I know this sounds shotting..but I'm slowly replacing electrical parts..I figured I'd do it anyways in the end to be sure things are tip top.

I need to know where (company or website) to buy a replacement Starter Solenoid for (1975 cb 750 F)

Plugs-new
Regulator-new
Rectifier-new
Fuses-new
Bulbs in idiot lights-new

Question- Just changed oil---how do I get the oil to circulate..I can only add 2 quarts in tank..but would like it to drain down through bike....do i just keep kick starting the bike.

Also I looked at Headlight harness: out of 3 wires going to Headlight Bulb (blue, green, white)  which ones should have power. when only the ignition is turned on and Bike not running.

I have wire diagram for bike..but I truely don't know when which wires begin to flow power when Bike is Running apposed to Not Running and just ignition ON.

For Example: At first didn't know Headlight wouldn't turn on Unless Bike was Running.

I'm so a NOVICE...when it comes to these bikes...Thanks for a the TONS of help I love this Forum.

On a POsitive note..the bike is starting to look like a Cool Cafe Racer..

Mike

[TwoTired]

Have you checked for power at the headlight fuse?
Have you checked the headlight fuse?

Headlight wiring:
Green - battery neg.
White - Low beam power.
Blue - High beam power.

Have you checked your starter button switch yet?

Have you disconnected the wires from the small posts on the solenoid and applied 12v directly to them?

Cheers,

[pyro139]

kick start? does bike start with kick starter? if yes then prob is your starter button.

[seaweb11]

Thought I would post my little update.  I found the old electrical piece in my old parts pile and removed the old clutch switch.
I thought it was heat melted in, but of course it pulled out. Called MorganTown and they refunded my $$.  Nice guys.

On a separate note to this, my tach cable snapped yesterday. Back into the pile of parts and guess what?  A CL350 tach cable works quite nicely on a 750 thank you    That's why you never throw old stuff all the way out!

[TwoTired]

Thought I would post my little update.  I found the old electrical piece in my old parts pile and removed the old clutch switch.
I thought it was heat melted in, but of course it pulled out. Called MorganTown and they refunded my $$.  Nice guys.

So, you got the clutch-in starter working?  Good news!

 That's why you never throw old stuff all the way out!

This has been my creedo for years.  It's also why my shops look like a wharehouse!

Cheers,

[seaweb11]

Thought I would post my little update.  I found the old electrical piece in my old parts pile and removed the old clutch switch.
I thought it was heat melted in, but of course it pulled out. Called MorganTown and they refunded my $$.  Nice guys.

So, you got the clutch-in starter working? Good news!

 That's why you never throw old stuff all the way out!

This has been my creedo for years. It's also why my shops look like a wharehouse!

Cheers,

Not yet. I decided while I was in the bucket, I might as well paint and replace the indicator light pod I just got from ebay and pollish the levers....and paint the front master cyl.

Nice not having a real job   

[Gordon]

This has been my creedo for years.  It's also why my shops look like a wharehouse!

Cheers,

Yup!  It only takes a couple of times of FINALLY getting rid of something you've held onto for years, only to find a use for it a couple of weeks later, before one learns to hold on to everything, forever!

[edosm]

I figured I'd snap a few updated pics, while I was sorting out the electrical bug.
Mike

[Bob Wessner]

Nice!

[seaweb11]

I would like to see a photo of your gauge set up.

Looks like what I have planned for my Tracy build.

Where did you get them $$ etc would also be helpful as I am in a buying mode for the project now.