Topic: 550 motor thats locked up...

[Lumbee]

...I've sprayed copious amounts of PB blaster and liquid nail in the plugs, but she won't budge.  At this point I have pulled the motor, and have the valve cover off.  My question is, how to continue to disasseble.  I can only get to one of the nuts on the cam sproket, and with out being able to turn the motor over, I can not get to the other nut.  Any suggestions on where to go from here...thanx...

[OldSchool_IsCool]

What is the history on the engine?  IF it's a recent lock-up, maybe it can yet be freed thus allowing you to get to the 2nd cam sprocket nut.  If it can't be freed, then splitting the cam chain may be your next prospect.

By the way, isn't Liquid Nail and adhesive?

[Lumbee]

   ..my bad, not liquid nail, liquid wrench.  As far as a recent lockup, I don't think so, this was a total basket case when I got it.  The top of the head looks emaculate, and the plugs were in the bike when I got it.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Ah! Liguid Wrench!  That would have a MUCH better chance od freeing a stuck engine then Liquid Nail 

I'd say drain the oil and pull the sump.  Look for any contents that shouldn't be there such as water and metal bits.

[Bob Wessner]

Though aimed at frozen nuts/bolts, might try this from and earlier thread..

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=20131.msg209311#msg209311

[tbone]

Release/remove the cam chain tensioner and remove the rockers. Sometimes, if you can get enough play in the chain you can walk the chain off the cam gear with a screw driver to pry the chain to one side and a wrench to turn just the camshaft. All else fails then cut the chain. If it's that locked up you're probably better off in the long run to do a total tear down anyway.  Only God knows how much rust and crap could be in the bottom end too. I just tore down a 1973 750 with the pistons frozen to the cylinders and there was just as much rust in the crankcase as in the top end.  It's more work but there's a much better chance of complete success by cleaning out "everything"!

Good luck and try to enjoy the experience!

[snoop]

I had the same with mine,  I recomend cutting the bolt.  I wasnt patient and I cut the cam chain,  you have to take apart the crankcase to put a new one on.  Find a big cutting wheel for a dremel and stick it down to cut the bolt.  it is easier to rplace the bolt than the cam chain.

[Cvillechopper]

Just don't forget to stuff something in the chain galley.  I've dropped a screw and got it pinned between the crank and rod on #2.  Couldn't get at it from the top or bottom until I pulled the cylinders.  They say haste makes waste and I believe 'em, whoever "they" are. 

[Lumbee]

Don't know how the 550 is set up, but had the same issue w/350F.  I wound up taking the side cover off a putting a socket on the crank, freed right up with very little effort. 

...tryed that yesterday, and no dice...i think I may try the ATF/Acetone combo and see how that works...

[cardrell]

hey i had to do the same on my bike. i found the best way to up free the motor is to heat up the side of the cylinders with a propane torch for about 20 min. make sure not to stay in one spot for more than 3 or 4 sec. after motor is nice and warm take 2 hammers and start by hitting the wood part of the hammer to the to center pistons.then slowly start working the outside pistons.almost forgot to get the head off was a #$%* but keep at it the cam will fit trough after you get the bolt off. to take the bolt off i had to back the cam adjuster all the way off and slip the cam chain one tooth at a time.if you want to break your crank shaft bolt go ahead and crank on it but other wise stick to what i have posted. oh and sorry for
saying everthing backwards.