Topic: I hope this isn't a dumb question...

[Frankenkit]

Ok, Heather's been on me hard core to get her carbs all put together so she can play with her bike.  I'm waiting on the gasket kit, but what I'm wondering is-
In accordance with the clymer manual, I filed the backs of those single-use screws off the choke link set, which kept those little plates on, so I could slide the linking bar out and separate all the carbs...

Now... Service Honda wants $81 for the 'choke link set'... and seeing that makes my wallet cry.  Are those little screws (or the ideal replacements) available separately?  Please don't tell me everyone plops down $81 EVERY TIME they take their carbs apart, or I'll be a sad, sad girl.

Thanks,
Kitsune

[kaceyf2]

right gal, I would not want to put down HALF of that cash for eight little screws,unless of course they were from the bunny ranch!  BUT seriously, very seriously, what you do NOT want to happen is to suck those screws or any parts or bits of them into your running motor, which is what may happen should they loosen................
WHAT I would do, is source some screws of the right length, cut a slot in the end of them, screw them in with a tad ( a real LITTLE tad ) of locktight, and pry the end open so they cannot travel in any more just like they were in the first place.....
Locktight goes sort of crystally hard when it sets, so you DO NOT want to have any of this sucked in your motor either, just a LITTLE speck on the threads, and then wipe off any that  you can see,so none is showing to dry out and get sucked in through the carbs......

[crazypj]

I think they are 3mm on choke plate and 4mm on throttle plate
 Get a long very cheap#1 phillps screwdriver,clamp it in a vice, pointy end up. insert into screw heads (I almost said 'insert into head', but dont know how literally you may take it , anyone spending this much time effort and money on old bikes probably has a screw loose) Get a small hammer and punch and rivet the ends slightly. Shouldnt cost more than 0.50cents for screws and maybe a buck for screwdriver. loctite as well, just to be extra safe
( and look both ways before you cross the street, yah dah, yah dah, etc)
PJ

[Frankenkit]

hmm. sounds good.  Just for giggles, you guys wouldn't happen to know what the standard, 'professional' way of replacing those screws would be, would you? (unless this IS the standard method...)

[TwoTired]

These screws on the butterfly plates should be locked into place.  This is to prevent them from being ingested into the engine.

The idea is to swage the screw ends so they can't come unscrewed.  However, hammering loads to the swivel rod should be avoided.  You'll need to rig up some kind of anvil to back the screw head during the swage operation.

Other methods I've witnessed, split the screw ends with a jewelers or razor saw, before assembly.  Screws were then inserted, tightened, and a flat blade screwdriver was pressed into the saw slot and the screw end splayed by levering to be a larger diameter, preventing screw turn out.

I would think that aluminum or brass screws are plenty strong for this application and sawing or swaging would impart the least amount of stress on the pivot shaft and carb body bearing surfaces.

Cheers,

[kaceyf2]

I started work in "slingers/suzuki" (The biggest suzuki franchise in lancashire UK, even bigger than Crooks suzuki outfit!) when I was twelve years old,by the age of thirteen, I was working full time in the workshop, I have been a mechanic ever since, I am now 47 years old, ergo I have been a mechanic for thirty four years, dont know if that is "proffessional" enough for you?
Many guys on these forums have spent a lifetime dedicated to all things mechanical, and regularly hand out top notch advice, AND get many people "rolling down the highway"
 The advice you have got so far is spot on, especially in relation to NOT battering away at the small screws while ON the choke rods, as you do not want to bend these!
The advice is totally professional, and you should take it< especially as its given freely with nothing more in mind than helping you get your bike up and running safely and correctly......with the least amount of expenditure,and the least fuss and the least hassle.
No one here wants you to spend eighty dollars OR have to take your bike in to the "shop" to have people hum and ha at it, suck in their breath and then charge you a fortune.
Just because advice is free, and no one is trying to charge you for their time served expertise,or trying to make a buck out of you,dont mean it aint proffessional, to some that have devoted every waking hour to things mechanical, and live and even dream solutions to problems,that can hurt a tad.

[crazypj]

The idea is to swage the screw ends so they can't come unscrewed.  However, hammering loads to the swivel rod should be avoided.  You'll need to rig up some kind of anvil to back the screw head during the swage operation.

 Thats the idea behind having a long number 1 phillips set in the vice, it fits into screw heads to support them. You need a helper to hold carbs steady while you rivet back of screw.
kaceyf2,
Never heared of Slinger Suzuki, I guess they  didnt race for the advertising like Crookes did?
I worked for Two Wheel Services In Bridgend, were always more into road racing which kinda sucked as I did MX and Enduro
( but I did build a fuel tank for Ian Lougher to do Isle of Man TT one year, RG125 tank fits perfect onto Honda CR125 road racer ( with a new base ))
PJ

[Frankenkit]

kaceyf2- Sorry, I didn't mean to offend.  For some reason I was thinking abt putting small nuts on the repl. screws, but no, sawing and swaging (sp?) is as close to the original as you can get... thanks for your help (and everyone else who's contributed)  You guys really are an incredible help, and I really am grateful.

[333]

I like the loc-tite idea.  Swageing or as I have heard it called, peening  is potential dangerous to the rods.  If you bend them, they won'y move smoothly.  And with loc-tite, there are 2 or 3 different strenghs, so go with the lightest duty.  There will be less chance of useing too much.

BTW.  The dumb questions are the ones that aren't asked.

[Frankenkit]

I was thinking of swaging with a jeweler's saw... I'm a silversmith on the side, and I'm thinking with patience, the (seemingly brass?) screws would saw just fine, even with a very fine blade.  ...maybe many blades.  Then I'd have to be damn sure to blow off any residual dust/shavings, however, but that can be done.