Topic: Engine wont start!! Shouldnt there be a volatage reading at the points?

[warreng22]

Im going to call it a day. 12 hours long enough... I'll try to follow the wire tomorrw.

[warreng22]

I don't understand this... Still have the same problem...

OK with Points blocked open and insulated:
test with one ohms meter connector touching one side of the points, and the other connector touching the other side of the point

points 1-4 reads 5.2 ohms
points 2-3 read .2 ohms

one Ohms meter connector touching the blue wire, the other ohms meter connector touching the engine

Blue wire & engine reads 5.2 ohms
yellow wire reads .2 ohms

OK I'm thinking the yellow wire must be grounded somewhere, I wanted to make sure before I tear into it. I disconnect the yellow wire from the 2-3 points, and connect a red wire that I made to the 2-3 points- Do test over

Touch one ohms meter wires to red wire, the other ohms meter wire to engine

points 2-3 still read .2 ohms 

This red wire that I made is only connected at one end directly to 2-3 points and the other end is connected to my ohms meter! how is it that I am still getting .2 ohms with the points still blocked open and insulated??? 

Again test with one ohms meter connector touching one side of the points, and the other connector touching the other side of the points

2-3 points read .2 ohms........

Are the points supposed to be insulated from the plate?? No Connectors are touching the plate anywhere... I just cant figure this one out, it doesn't make any sense...Anyone else got any ideas, I'm stumped.... 

[TwoTired]

Did you lose the insulator on the points post where the condenser and blue or yellow wire attaches?

When you place your probe tips together what is your reading?

Are the points supposed to be insulated from the plate??

Yes, one contact side only.

Where did you get your points?

[warreng22]

no the insulators "washers" are there, 2 for each point.
The meter reads .02 when you touch the two leads, I have been subtracting this from my readings most of time.
Now when you have the points held open and insulated and touch the yellow or blue wire with one ohms meter wire, and the other ohms meter wire to the engine. There is no connectivity what so ever, not a high value but no value at all. Its like you are holding the ohms meter wires in the air.

Are the blue and yellow wire supposed to be insualted from the condenser wire??

points came from shawmuthills.com They are Honda brand factory replacements.

I am now getting spark from both coils.. The bike fires up, but sounds like crap... Using my timing light, its seems the spark is spartic. It doesn't fire constant... I am still coming back to possible  bad coils... I dont know. I am at the end of my patients. I just cant figure what the heck the problem is. The points are new, condensers are new, coils are new, plugs and plug wire are new... The only thing that is not the "stock" OEM products, is the coils, they were universals from partsnmore.com Is there a way to find out if the coils are bad for sure?? If they are sparking the plugs, even sporadically, does this mean they are good??

[warreng22]

OK........... Plug 1 and 4 Good Spark, Plug 2 and 3 Weak Spark...

So Voltage test:

Coil 1
Ground Wire Voltage tester on Engine
Red Wire Voltage tester on Blue wire Coil 1 Terminal 
Results 10.5 Volts

Coil 2
Ground Wire Voltage tester on Engine
Red Wire Voltage tester on Yellow Wire Coil 2 Terminal
Results .205 Volts 

Now if I disconnect the yellow wire from the Coil 2 Terminal, the terminal reads: 11.5 Volts??? !!!

I do not understand where I am loosing the voltage at...    I thought maby the Yellow wire may have been grounding somewhere, so I Connected a wire that I made straight from the Coil 2 Terminal to the points, and I still got the same .205 volts!!

Disconnect it and it goes back to 11.5 volts 

 I have spent 4-5 days trying to figure out whats going on with this thing.   

Anyone out there got any ideas...   

[750goes]

I will probably stuff this answer up but here goes....

from what I have read and understand about 50% of it, you have an electrical problem of sorts that is frustrating you, and the bike is running like crap...

there is nothing better than patience when working on this particular problem - and if I pinch some of TT's words if they were his or someone elses - "you are nearly there"................but are becoming a bit skittish and trying too many things at once...thus getting a bit cranky at the whole process..

do six measurements for me and post the results

1a- measure the "Ohms" or resistance on the Yellow wire from the yellow wire at the COIL to the end of the Yellow wire at the POINTS..............BUT..........make sure both ends of the wires you are probing are not connected to anything else tell us the result

1b  -  measure the "Ohms" or resistance on the Blue wire from the blue wire at the COIL to the end of the Blue wire at the POINTS..............BUT..........make sure both ends of the wires you are probing are not connected to anything else tell us the result

2a -  measure the "Ohms" or resistance on the Yellow wire from the yellow wire at the COIL to the end of the Yellow wire at or near the rear brake switch - where it connects to Yellow wire going to the POINTS..............BUT..........make sure both ends of the wires you are probing are not connected to anything else tell us the result

2b - measure the "Ohms" or resistance on the Blue wire from the blue wire at the COIL to the end of the Blue wire at or near the rear brake switch - where it connects to Blue wire going to the POINTS..............BUT..........make sure both ends of the wires you are probing are not connected to anything else tell us the result

3a - measure the "Ohms" or resistance on the Yellow wire from the yellow wire at the rear brake switch to the end of the Yellow wire - where it connects to Yellow wire going to the POINTS..............BUT..........make sure both ends of the wires you are probing are not connected to anything else tell us the result

3b  - measure the "Ohms" or resistance on the Yellow wire from the yellow wire at the rear brake switch to the end of the Yellow wire - where it connects to Yellow wire going to the POINTS..............BUT..........make sure both ends of the wires you are probing are not connected to anything else tell us the result

I bet one of those resutls will be infinity - probably on the yellow lead.....

 

[kslrr]

Do you have a schematic for the bike?  If so, study it.  If not, get one and study it.  It will help you understand how the coil circuits are 'made' and 'broken' by the points.

Good luck.

[warreng22]

well... it running sort of OK

750goes, I got .01 ohms on all tests

I think my points are still off, I got the bike running tonight the best it has done so far.
I think Im going to have to take it to a shop.
I dont think I have the points set right...  Actually I know I dont have the points right, because my timing is way off. At 1200 rpm, using a timing light, its running at the advance marks. If I give it a little gas, I get to see the advancer spring   

Anyway
Thanks for All the Help Guys

[750goes]

If you got .01 on all those tests then that rules out a bad wire from coils to points...thats the limit of my expertise....