Topic: Engine painting!!

[stay youth]

I know there are tons of threads related to this topic, but I want to paint my engine with two part paint not spray can. It seems all i can find is about duplicolor vs. vht. What have other people used? PPG, Dupont, Mathews??  I convinced my boss at the sign shop that we really need a small spray booth and and paint set up. I have painted and cleared my gas tank with a mathews base and clear, You can drop acetone on it and nothing will happen. Now i work at a smaller shop so i dont have a big spray booth anymore. So what do people suggestion I need an epoxy primer and etcher that can stand up to the heat and a good silver.

Thanks

[sandcastcb750]

I use silver lacquer from auto parts store. Will not be affected by gasoline.

[stay youth]

was the engine primed?

[Dougy Dougy Dune Buggy]

Stay Youth,
I'm sure someone can shed some light on your subject/question? I've seen MANY repainted engines on this forum
Later,
DWYJ

[mazingerzeca]

I'm in the same trouble. Yes, I've read lots of threads about engine painting. I tried to do it with VHT, and you can see in the pictures the results. I cleaned, degreased, sanded, painted and cooked the piece, and it came off with my fingernails. Maybe I didn't do everything correctly, but I CAN'T DO IT BETTER.
I've considered powdercoating it (including barrels, cylinder head and cranckcases), but I'm afraid about the engine overheating, and the bending of the pieces due to the temperature involved in the process. Also, maybe the powdercoat also chips, and you can not retouch it.
So, maybe the best way is two-parts paint. I went to a car tuning shop, and they told me that they could paint the engine and that it would be very durable. They told me also that rattle cans are just for crap. Should I believe them? Is there any two-part paint for High temperatures? Probably the temperature on a cylinder head of an air-cooled engine is much higher than the temperature on any car's engine...
But maybe two-part paint would be the best method, and at least is not as irreversible as powdercoating. You can retouch it, anyway, and is not agressive to the pieces. Any experience with two-part paint?

[stay youth]

Yeah i think powdercoating the engine would retain the heat to much on the engine, They say the thinner the coating the better for the cooling. If i find anything more out i will be certain to share it. thanks

thanks doug, Its hot in the city i can only image how hot it is over in benicia!!

[750essess]

I suggest you use Alodine to prep you engine for paint, and the cleaning acid that is made by the same people. Really gives a good base for paint to stick to. It doesnt add any "thickness"  cause it is a chemical conversion. The more coats of paint you put on the hotter the engine will run. I started to do this with mine, but liked the look of just the alodine by itself and stopped there. Check it out is available at aircraft spruce and specialty. I read about it here on the forum somewhere, thanks whoever it was. As for paint any two part paint that can handle the temps and resist gas should be fine.

[mazingerzeca]

I suggest you use Alodine to prep you engine for paint, and the cleaning acid that is made by the same people. Really gives a good base for paint to stick to. It doesnt add any "thickness"  cause it is a chemical conversion. The more coats of paint you put on the hotter the engine will run. I started to do this with mine, but liked the look of just the alodine by itself and stopped there. Check it out is available at aircraft spruce and specialty. I read about it here on the forum somewhere, thanks whoever it was. As for paint any two part paint that can handle the temps and resist gas should be fine.

About Alodine and Alumiprep 33. Is there any risk to damage the pieces if you don't do it correctly? Does it "eat" the aluminum if not done propperly? If it gets into any hole of machined part of the cranckases does it ruin them?

[stay youth]

thanks for the feedback

anyone used this stuff

http://www.stoprust.net/POR-15-POR-20-Aluminum-8-oz.-p-55.html

[coyotecowboy]

when using Alodine or Alumiprep (we use Alumibrite in the shop) be damned sure that you dont leave it on the aluminum too long.  One of our drivers didn't quite get all of the Alumibrite off his wheels (Alcoa semi wheels) and we ended up replacing all of the wheels on that truck about a year later, started developing stress cracks.  Don't get me wrong, those are excellent products, just give yourself plenty of time to do the job right if you're going to use them



[edited for spelling]

[ieism]

My partsguy has sprayed a few engines this year with great result. He had some painted parts from a  customer in the shop the other day, they looked as new. The paint is also a very close match to the original enginepaint, i'm sure of this as he also has a never-used 750 for show there.

I have a link to the site but it's in Dutch. Basically the engine is beadblasted, and then painted with 2-part. This is done with a paintgun. It's solvent and heat tested. The important part is that the engine is totally clean when you do this, That's why he prefers cleaning the parts in a tank first, and then blasting.
 I'm thinking of having this done next year maybe, he charges 250 Euro if the engine is apart, does that sound cheap to you too?

I think this is  the paint he uses:

And the results: http://www.honda4.nl/werk/blok/blok.html

[Bodi]

If you're willing to disassemble the engine, I recommend Gunkote. It's a thin film coating that's fuel proof and quite abrasion resistant. It needs a very clean surface, and has to be heat cured. I just cure it in the oven, but it has a strong smell that most females would object vigorously to in the kitchen.

[hopterfixer]

Alodine is used widely in aviation.  If you use Alodine you need a "water break free surface" meaning scotchbrite it or sand it until water will run off in one sheet versus breaking up and running off in droplets.  If you don't get the "break free surface" the alodine will only stick to the smooth areas and give you an uneven coat.  Don't leave it on too long or you will get a dark coffee looking stain.  A minute or so should suffice.

[JP]

I'm going to try and sum things up as simple as possible, because there are a lot of different ideas floating around- all good- but a little scattered.

For the best paint job--

Clean clean clean.  Whatever method you want.  We are grown men, and we know what clean is- if you want to fool yourself, your paint will peel.

You can use an oily engine brite type substance for the greasy stuff, but once that is gone use something to remove the cleaner.   Dish washing liquid and detergent work well.

Plain primer will not stick to bare metal.

Get what's called a "sealer" for your primer base, lay it down thin and then be prepared to lay down your base coat within an hour after applying the sealer.

Allow from 2-6 hours of dry time before clear coating.

Regular auto paint is all you need.  High temp paint is a waste of money- if it gets hot enough to burn off regular paint, it would also burn off the so-called high temp stuff.
JP

[mazingerzeca]

Clean clean clean.  Whatever method you want.  We are grown men, and we know what clean is- if you want to fool yourself, your paint will peel.

You can use an oily engine brite type substance for the greasy stuff, but once that is gone use something to remove the cleaner.   Dish washing liquid and detergent work well.

Plain primer will not stick to bare metal.

Yes, this cranckcase is clean, but it was sandblasted a month ago. You can see the difference between the sandblasted surface and the surface I sanded by hand to repair some scratches. Will the sealer adhere to it or should I sandblast again or necessarily apply Alumiprep or Alodine?

[sandcastcb750]

I did not prime the engine, but I degreased it. Lacquer seems to adhere okay.

There are many shades of silver, so it is best to look carefully at the cans to find one that matches Honda or whatever. Some of the colors are too much chrome-like. Honda is a little dull. With a small sprayer, you can use the small jars that are touch up.