Topic: Honda 400F Brakes

[Phil]

Been getting very helpful advice from people on the HOC site about my bike but their site is down so I wonder if anyone could help me with my brakes and forks? Had loads of problems taking my front brakes apart but am now putting them back together with all new parts,pipes etc. I was told to "apply silicone sealing grease to sliding surfaces of pads to help keep out dirt and water".I have found in my cupboard a sachet of EMP Disc Brake Silencer,which says it is an elestomeric multi-polimer compound especially designed to form a noise absorbing, water-resistant high temperature membrane that dampens vibration noise and insures quiet disc braking. Is it likely that this is what I was advised to use, or a similar alternative? If so, do I smear it all over the back of the pads and all over the piston? If not where can I get whatever I need,I live in Loughton, Essex) or do I need to use anything at all? I would be grateful for any advise. Phil

[nickjtc]

Welcome to this forum.

When you are rebuilding your brakes the lubricant you use has to be able to withstand the temperatures which may be built up during prolonged or heavy braking. That's why regular grease is not the best thing to use.

I would lube the piston with fresh brake fluid. I've used that anti-squeal stuff (because I had some lying around) on a brake rebuild and it seemed to do the job of lubing the caliper pins and assorted gubbins.

But I'll wait to see if anyone else here has any stronger recommendations.....

[Bodi]

i don't know about UK sources for stuff, in N.A. you can get this stuff at any auto parts store.
You want silicon lube made for brakes, it has a high service temperature and it doesn't separate and ooze juice - both important to keep the pad surfaces clean in use!
This goes lightly on the nylon ring and a blob on the rounded bump the ring sits on, this helps eliminate squeaking. A bit behind the dead pad too. Smear some in the piston side where the pad sits - not in the piston hole! - and a bit on the outer edge of the piston side pad's metal plate.
Before you do anything though, make sure the new piston pad fits OK. Most aftermarket and some OEM pads don't fit "out of the box". Usually it's just the paint is too thick, sometimes the notch needs to be filed out a bit, sometimes the outer edge needs to be filed too. The pad should slide in freely all the way back. Not rattly loose but freely. If you've removed the paint, repaint with spray rust paint 2 light coats (tape over the friction pad) and make sure it still fits after the paint dries. Bare metal will rust up and seize in the caliper body pretty soon unless you live in the desert and avoid washing it. I understand it occasionally rains in the UK.

[Phil]

Thanks for you advice gents.I have decided (I think) that I will treat the back of the pads etc with this disc brake silencer stuff (which comes from the USA) then smear some brake fluid round the piston so it goes in smoothly past the seal. Does that sound about right?

[malcolmgb]

I would also smear a little around the outer edge of the pad back plate that Bodi talks of removing excess paint from, if that makes sense. Incidentally I have never had to remove paint down to the metal on the pad back plate to allow free movement.