Topic: painting the frame. any ideas?

[jaguar]

i was going to powder coat my frame but i heard that there were brush on paints that were easyer and cheaper.   what are they?

[forwheeldrift]

if you can afford to powdercoat, i would. it will hold up much much better then any paint.

[Cvillechopper]

if you can afford to powdercoat, i would. it will hold up much much better then any paint.

+1

If not, go with acrylic lacquer spray cans, the 2 part mix type if you can afford that.  Anything done with a brush is going to look like it was done, well, with a brush. 

I went with the cheaper acrylic lacquer cans from Duplicolor you can find at any auto store.  Here's the link to the pics of how it turned out.  You do have to be careful not to scratch the paint up until it cures (well over a week) but it's reasonably strong after that.

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=23258.msg242890#msg242890


Good luck and Safe riding.

[rhinoracer]

Cost me $65 for powdercoating the frame and swingarm. I would have spent the same or more in cleaning, stripping, sanding and painting it myself.

Go with powdercoat if you can afford it.

[Tom Stark]

I will have to look it up, but I got a brush on "self leveling" paint that is supposed to be hard, yet flexable.  I do not know how hard it is, but let me tell you about the self leveling.  My frame had been narfed up to beat all.  The PO narfed it all over so that body plastic would stick to it.  I was really bummed as I wanted a normal looking frame, and did not want to put a ton of work into it.  So I primed the frame, and hit it with a little primer spot puddy.  I did a little sanding, and decided that I would have to brush on this hard protective paint, then would have to spray with flat black, because I KNEW that the shiny black would look like crap from all the narfs.  (the spot puddy was used just for the REALLY big narfs).  I painted it on heavy, and much to my surprise, it looked GREAT!  No brush marks, and no narfs!  It filled in all the little narfs and such, and looked great! 
I will look around to see where I got it, (on line), cost was about $25 and is more than enough to do a frame and more.
Tom

[Blaize]

Powder coat prices can be hit or miss. I would have done mine that way but all my local shops wanted $350 minimum to do it.

 Should you find yourself in the same boat, I used a rattle can of Eastwoods "Chassis Black" avail at eastwood.com Really good stuff. They have since started selling a "Extreme" version and I would have used that had it been avail at the time. Anyway it has held up great to chem. spills, a few whacks with tools, and it looks right. All of this of course is assuming you want a black frame but if so it is good stuff. And one rattle can of the stuff was enough to paint my frame and swingarm with three heavy coats.

 Pretty good results for $20

[Geeto67]

several ways to do this:

- Powdercoat - kinda expensive here on the island but worth it - the last finish you will probably ever need as long as you don't leave it outside. If you need recommendations on the island I can give you some (action, carsmetics, etc). IF you want to do this let me know as I have a frame that needs it done also and maybe we can get a discount.

- Pro paint - imron chassis paints applied by a pro, comes out nice and hella durable, probably costs as much as powdercoat.

- Por 15 - extremely durable paint, rolls or brushes on and they you finish with one coat of paint out of a spray can. frame will never rust again (good to get the insides too). Kit is a little pricey but much cheaper than powder and better corrosion protection.

- brightside yacht paint - rolls on, drise glossy and fast. is a single stage poly so you can touch it up anytime and also wetsand and polish it. $35 buys you enough to paint 20 bikes. You can do your vodywork while you are at it if you feel all matchy matchy.

- Rustoleum "stops rust" - cheap rust paint out of a spray can that works, leaves a good finish, and is pretty durable. You can roll it on or spray it (if rolling it mix it 80/20 with mineral spirits). If you want perfect you can wetsand and polish it. Single stage enamel so it can be touched up easily too.

I assume this is for that 76 F you got from me. Hope that project is going well.

[Tom Stark]

i was going to powder coat my frame but i heard that there were brush on paints that were easyer and cheaper.   what are they?

OK, I found where I got the paint.  It is at http://www.kbs-coatings.com the product is BLACKTOP :: PINT :: CHASSIS PAINT
Very happy with it.
Tom

[jwurbel]

For those that powdercoated, how did you handle the stamped on manufactured info that is on the neck?  Did you remove the label
as there is also a label on the swingarm.

Thanks.

[jaguar]

hey geeto good to see you here
no its not for your old bike(atleast not yet) its for a CL125 that im doing up right now.   what do you think that a 750 frame would cost to have powdercoated? 
as for the yacht paint i never thought of that.  i work at a marina and we use interlux all the time.  never on steel though.
if i can get your old 750 and my 125 powdercoated with your other frame for a good price i will strip the 750 down. 

the 750 is getting a CR750 tank and seat that i found on ebay cheap, got a dual disc front end off a 78F,  carbs were rebuilt, dyna 2000 ignition, pod filters, im also using the wheels off the 78 for easy cleaning and lack of mantinance.  (just didnt want spokes) going with clipons too.    got a spare K and F motor and thinking of building a 836 or something out of it after i get the stock motor going.
did trun into more of a project then i thought but im having a blast with it.  cant wait to get it going
the 125 is being built to go to the maxton mile to set the four stroke 125cc land speed record....65mph...lol

[cb350twin]

I recommend Por 15 just use Por 15 black cote on top of the Por 15 so it doesn't yellow. You can get the swing arm stickers here
http://www.yamiya750e.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=512

[rhinoracer]

For those that powdercoated, how did you handle the stamped on manufactured info that is on the neck?  Did you remove the label
as there is also a label on the swingarm.

Thanks.

I removed the VIN plate as I didn't know if it would hols the stripping and baking of the process. Reattached with double face tape (the strongest ou can get) tapped 4-40 threads and screwed them on with the screw heads ground down to a smaller dia then erased the slot to make them look like rivets.

I learned you can buy the proper rivets (they're like screw rivets but don't remember the proper name). You can find a thread on that, there's pics of it and even vendors.