Topic: 750, A few questions

[Shenanigans]

So I finally had a chance to take my new 750 out for a ride to see what it needed(Hoping nothing).
As nice as it looks it has a few problems. Some of which are confusing me.

First off it developed a ridiculously high idle, around 4k. At first I assumed that it was a cable getting stuck but after checking them they seem fine, just a little stiff. When I went to move the bike(after it had been sitting) some gas came out of the lower right pipe. So what exactly is going on? I don't think the float is getting stuck since the carbs themselves have never leaked.

Also the clutch seems to not be completely disengaging even when I adjust the lever as far as it will go. It still does not completely disengage. When a clutch is worn out I thought that it would start slipping as opposed to sticking.

When I got the bike the starter button would work about once every third push. If it did not work the bike would make a "Click" sound. The button got stuck so I took off the housing and all of the plastic encasing the switch/spring fell out. Around this time I also lost my head light. I am assuming since the headlight is cut when you use the starter that replacing this will solve my problems. (How hard are these to find? Can I use one from a 550?)

My lower left pipe is also rotted a bit leaving a bit of a hole. What is the most effective  way to patch this?

Thanks in advance.

[flatblack]

Yeah, the bike needs some TLC.  Some suggestions...

-- High idle can be caused by a sticking throttle mechanism/linkage, air leak (especially on two-strokes) or mis-set choke.

-- Fuel leaking from a pipe usually means a) you left the petcock on and, b) the float valve for that cylinder's carb is sticking open.  For now, keep the petcock off when not riding, until you can pull the carbs and clean the offending float valve.

-- If the clutch is out of adjustment at the handlebar lever, you'll need to adjust it at the engine side.  Trace the cable to the engine, pull the adjuster cover, loosen the locknut and turn the screw in or out, depending.  Tighten the locknut, replace the cover.  Readjust the handlebar lever.  Once the bike gets a few miles on it, and the clutch gets used, you may need to do this again.

-- You should be able to find a used or NOS replacement switch assembly if you want to go that route or just find used "innards" (technical term).  As you have now learned, one wants to be very careful when disassembling a component with lots of small parts in it.  Someone here recently suggested doing it inside a box and that's a helluva good idea.  As a rule, the innards from same-year switches on similar models (e.g., with electric start) will work fine.  I'm not convinced that's the source of the problem, however; could be a bad relay/solenoid.

-- An "effective" fix for an exhaust pipe hole depends on the hole, it's location and your budget.  Welding is always effective, as is replacing the pipe.  Maybe post a pic and get some suggestions.

HTH...

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[flatblack]

Also, consider changing the oil and filter soon, if you haven't already.  Do it when the engine is hot.  Might help the clutch situation and, regardless, if the bike has been sitting a few years, you're overdue.

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[eldar]

I must second the oil change. If it has been a while, the clutch can stick from the old oil. Hell that can even happen just sitting for the winter.  Do that before messing with your clutch. That might take care of it.

For the high idle, check the idle screw. It is stupidly simple but yet so easily over looked. Check for air leaks too in the boots between the carb and engine.

A busted button sucks. You can either get an old part or try to find NOS. Another option would be to see if some online store sells button and springs. Or you can remove the starter and hardwire the headlight so it works again. That will simplify the electrics some and lose some weight.