Author Topic: How the f... do you get the carbs back in with the air box on a 550?!!!  (Read 5274 times)

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Offline cleveland

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I am ready to throw a tantrum like the 3 year old. >:(  It was a big enough pain getting the carbs out of my 1974 CB550, but getting them back in seems impossible.  I am sure this would not be an issue if I were putting on pods, but I want to keep the air box for now. 

Please lend some advice. :-[

Offline Bodain

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It ain't easy. It ain't fun. It's a big pain in the butt, but thats how it is with stock airboxes... Beer and paitence is the only way to get them back on. Actually if you do this procedure a few times. You will want to switch to pods instantly.
2009 Suzuki TU250
2014 Honda Grom
1984 Kawasaki GPZ 750
2005 Yamaha Zuma 50
1974 Honda CB 750
1979 Kawasaki Z750 Twin

Offline paulages

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in this order:

1) drink a cold one to calm your nerves.
2) remove the clamps that attach the rubbers from the airbox to the carbs.
3) try to cram them in with these rubbers in place.
4) 3 usually doesn't work, so you might want to remove the rubbers themselves.
5) install the carbs onto the intake insulators (front rubbers).
6) cram the rear rubbers back onto the airbox, and use a small screwdriver to work them back around the carbs themselves.
7) completely undo the clamps and slip them back over the rubber/ carb. tightening them will work out the kink you likely made in the clamp while putting it back on.

i've never found an easier way to do it than this. once you resign yourself to the fact that it won't go in with rear and front rubbers installed, it's not too bad. good luck!
paul
SOHC4 member #1050

1974 CB550 (735cc)
1976 CB550 (590cc) road racer
1973 CB750K3
1972 NORTON Commando Combat
1996 KLX650 R

Offline Killer Canary

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I had mine in and out 5 or 6 times in a couple days when I was re-jetting; it does get easier. Some poor slob would have had that job at the factory. Must have been a high burn-out rate.
If it's worth doing at all it's worth over-doing.
Honda MT250, CB400F, CB450K, CB550, GL500, CBR929
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Offline crazypj

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If the airbox connector 'rubbers' are new its much easier. If they are originals, don't think its going to happen ( I either got new ones or gave up and got K&N ;D)
PJ
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Mountainman

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in this order:

1) drink a cold one to calm your nerves.


THAT is the most important step.

In all seriousness I have done this countless times. I'm sorry to say that for me, it never gets any easier. One time they will actually go on nice and smooth and you think you’ve figured out the trick, then the next time its back to square one.

Offline svenD

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NO-NO the thing is ,you MUST remove the air filter box first,this allows the air box and rubbers to move about .5" back and down.makes carb removal/fitting a snatch.leave the beer til the carbs are back on !

Offline looknotime

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There are two bolts at the top of the box that connected it to the frame, remove them. Leave the two box pieces together. That should give you a half inch to work the rack in.

Bob
« Last Edit: July 08, 2007, 06:14:45 AM by looknotime »
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Offline jensk

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Doing like this works for me.
1. unscrew the 2 bolts holding the aitfilterbox and move it ½ inch backwards
2 remove carb to airbox rubbers completely
3. wipe carb to inlet rubbers with silicone to lubricate and ease the mounting of the carbs
4. tie luggage strap around carbs - cylinders - se picture.
5 heat inlet rubbers with at heat blower or hairdryer.
6 tighten luggagestrap and suddently the carbs snap on the boot rubbers.
7 mount carb to airbox rubbers in the airbox
8 with your fingers and a small scredriver mount the other side of the airbox rubbers to the carbs
9 tighten down all metal bands
10 remount airbox bolts, filter etc.
Sit back and enjoy doing a job that took 20 min



/jensK
'77 CB550K Technical rebuild done and riding. Cosmetics must wait till winter
'78 CB550K3 beautifull but engine needs rebuild.

Offline kach_me

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Here's the most silly idea yet, but it worked for me.  Take four golf balls stuff them into the rubbers going into the air box.  You and the airbox (complete with golf balls) need to sit in the sun for a couple of hours.  I would suggest one or more very cold beers.  The heat and the golf slightly stretch the rubber.  When you're ready, they should slip into place with little to no trouble at all. 

I have also been told that if you soak the rubbers in paint thinner very briefly (couple of minutes) that they will swell.  I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS ONE.  DO SO AT YOUR OWN CAUTION. 

I personally was pleased with the golf balls.   ;D
1976 CB 750K - Stock / No mods (yet).

Offline cleveland

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Got them on! ;D  Thanks for the replies.

Last night I poured a Jack and Coke and lit an Acid cigar.  I sat back a stared at it thinking that there has to be a way (I think I can, I think I can,....). 

Then it hit me, I took the boots that were on the engine and installed them to the carbs.  Then I slid the carbs into place and wiggled the air box boots on most of the way (the angle wouldn't let me put them on all the way).  The I pulled the carbs towards the air box and slid the boots onto the engine.  YEA!

Next...

I threw on a new clutch cable and it's a bit smoother, but the handle is still sloppy.  Will a new "screw thing" that attaches the cable to the handle fix this?  Maybe a longer one? 

     

Offline CrisPDuk

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When I did mine I found the best method to be a 40:40:20 mix of brute force, ignorance and cussing ;)
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1978 CB550 K3
1985 H100S

Offline billstron

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with regard to getting the carbs on and off i have one question for you...

have you ever seen a monkey and a football go at it?   :P

This is the advice I got about getting the carbs on and off.  It works perfectly. 
1.  Remove the 8 nuts from the engine block studs that hold the carbs on. 
2.  I think I loosen the air box.  I can't remember, it has been a while. 
3.  Straddle your bike like you (monkey) are trying to hump the rear of the seat (football). 
4.  Grab hold of the carbs and pull backward (humping the football). 
Same process for reinstallation. 

Good luck. 

Offline jensk

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Primary adjust of cable slack on the clutch cable is done with net nuts on the clutch end of the cable. The handle end is only for small adjustments afterwards the major adjustment is done.

/jensK
'77 CB550K Technical rebuild done and riding. Cosmetics must wait till winter
'78 CB550K3 beautifull but engine needs rebuild.

Offline paulages

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NO-NO the thing is ,you MUST remove the air filter box first,this allows the air box and rubbers to move about .5" back and down.makes carb removal/fitting a snatch.leave the beer til the carbs are back on !

i left off the part about removing the airbox, because he obviously got the carbs off already. it is almost equally hard removing them, especially without that extra 1/4". that said, i still gotta disagree: that extra 1/4" does NOT make it a snatch. there is no easy way out...
paul
SOHC4 member #1050

1974 CB550 (735cc)
1976 CB550 (590cc) road racer
1973 CB750K3
1972 NORTON Commando Combat
1996 KLX650 R

Offline mgmuellner

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I use a hair dryer to heat the air box boots & the boots into the engine.  Then push & push.  Heat again, push & push.  It works eventually.
73 CB750
69 CB350
73 RD350
73 z50 (2 of em)
01 SV650

Offline cleveland

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Primary adjust of cable slack on the clutch cable is done with net nuts on the clutch end of the cable. The handle end is only for small adjustments afterwards the major adjustment is done.

/jensK

The pull is fine, but the handle doesn't spring all the way back.  It comes back out about half way and the rest is slack. Maybe a spring in the clutch cover?

tbone

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All this carb installation problems makes you kinda wish for a manifold and one big carburetor! ;D

Offline ChevelleSSLS6

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All this carb installation problems makes you kinda wish for a manifold and one big carburetor! ;D

lol...

I just switched to pod filters.
"What about incomplete idiots?" -TwoTired
"What's a leakdown test?  I filled the cylinder that looks like this with some water and let it sit overnight. The water didn't go down any.  I thought that would tell me about the rings." -Dead Guy of AMCforums
 
1977 CB550f- sold
2007 Kawi EX650- curre

Offline purf_man

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lol...

I just switched to pod filters.

I am seriously thinking of doing that when I put mine back together (will keep the airbox on the shelf though in case I feel like abusing myself.)
1975 CB550
1978 RD400

luvhonda750

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Yeah, I learned you don't just pull them off to check something and put them back on with out completely rebuilding and cleaning them. They have to be seated deep into the rubber manifolds in order for the airbox to fit correctly. Once you get them back on, never remove them again, there will be no reason to if you fixed them right.

KEVINM

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I install mine using two wood working glue clamps.  Put the back of the  clamp( with the threaded handle) on edge of the rail that connects the  4 carbs, and the front of the clamp on the front of the engine. Put one on the other side and draw the clamps in. It take about one minute.  I usualyy spray some silicone on the inside of the rubbers to help them slide.I put a picture on the tricks and tips section. It works better than using a strap.

Offline svenD

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I ment it was a snap,anyways when the going gets tough the tough get tirerder and the women says "why dont you get some things done".And she dosent mean on the bike !
« Last Edit: July 09, 2007, 05:40:32 PM by svenD »

Offline svenD

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.If in doubt use ,a bigger hammer! ::)
« Last Edit: July 09, 2007, 05:41:05 PM by svenD »

Offline Loudpipe

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If you boil some water and drop the rubbers in for a bit to get them good and hot (causing them to expand) and then pull them out and smear a little bit of your favorite kind of grease around the inside lips of them, they slip on fairly easily. Or at least they did on my 750, which is pretty much the same.
- LP

1974 Honda CB350F

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