Topic: Engine parts price and location

[eldar]

Ok well I may be looking to do the 836 on my bike.

I need a lot of parts for this of course but I want to be as cheap as possible as we all do.

Now I dont want junk stuff just the cost and web sites where the rest of you have gotten you performance stuff.

Really liking the falicon knife rods but carillos are good too.

So if you all can tell me what the parts cost you and where you got them from. that would be great.

Looking for everything, not just rods

[scondon]

    Dynoman is a good source for all your needs, Eldar. Competitive pricing on everything. I think that Cycle-x has some cheap 836 pistons offered, but I don't know anything about how well they work as I've only used Wiseco pistons so far.

dynoman.net     Prices are listed on the site

[eldar]

Well wiseco are forged and cycles are cast.  Forged is stronger, cast is cheaper which is probably why cyclex is about half the price.

[sparty]

Ok well I may be looking to do the 836 on my bike.

I need a lot of parts for this of course but I want to be as cheap as possible as we all do.

Now I dont want junk stuff just the cost and web sites where the rest of you have gotten you performance stuff.

Really liking the falicon knife rods but carillos are good too.

So if you all can tell me what the parts cost you and where you got them from. that would be great.

Looking for everything, not just rods

eldar,

It gets expensive real fast!   I am speaking from experience.

Contact Buzz at Dynoman.  He is a good guy.

Art

[eldar]

Well I have looked there and some prices are good other not so good. So I am try to scrape whatever off I can.

[scondon]

 What is your budget for your 836 plans,Eldar? It would certainly help to know if you are trying to shave a few dollars off of $1700(Pistons,boring,cam, headwork) or $6000(Rods, bearings,crankwork,headwork,pistons,boring, primary chains,camchain, cam chain tensioner, exhaust, suspension, Dyna ignition and coils, tools, + a hundred other items that I have forgotten but will come up during your build).

[nippon]

Got my Wiseco 836ccm from Cycle Exchange:
http://www.cyclexchange.net/Engine%20Parts%20Page.htm

USD 354.00,....fast shipment included.

The rest, i ordered from Webcam and APE.

nippon

[eldar]

Well if I am able to do this, I will get the head done by Mike, if he has the time.
The valves should probably be replaced but I am not going for max power but more than a mild build though. Lets say medium. Do I really need kibblewhite valves or will stock work. It is a 78K and from what I know, the stock ones were pretty good, just new guides and seals. The springs should be hi-po and titanium retainers maybe.

I would like to use stock rods just get them balanced but if I have to go falicon or carillo, I want to find a cheaper source, Dont care to blow almost 300 for a stinkin rod in a engine that even when built, will be low power.

Cam chain, 38 for a tsubaki, no biggie. I don't know why I need a new tensioner.

wiseco from cyclex

webcam I have found for 179.

I will check out my primarys when I do it.

I want to try to keep it under 2000. above that and I will jsut find myself a V65 since I want one of those anyways.

[scondon]

      Eldar, my first 836 engine, which is my daily rider was put together for around $2000 and was built much like what you are intending.

Headwork: Stage 1 porting by Mrieck, kibblewhite valves(same size as stock), kibblewhite springs, AFE guides, STOCK retainers.

New cam chain, Megacycle cam, Wiseco pistons. I did not touch the bottom end since the motor had 12,000 original miles on it.

   This bike has plenty of power. The limitations of the CB750 frame, braking, suspension became apparent when this was applied on local "twisties". Power kicks in at 6000rpm and doesn't start to drop again until 9000rpm.

    My daily commute has me at speeds of 80mph just to stay in the fast lane and up to 100mph for avoiding cars that tailgate. I do a lot of daily, high rpm riding. If you don't expect to then I don't see any reason not to stick with stock valves if it will shave some costs.

   Of course, you will want that Kerker with the comp. baffle

[bryanj]

If you are doing all that work new tensioner rollers and cushion really are a must, think how old the motor is and that rubber has been getting repeatedly hot and cold over the years---compare it to the intakes and how hard/fragile they are and they dont sit inside doing work!!

[eurban]

If you don't want oil leaks use quality gaskets (probably Cometic for the head and oem for valve cover and cylinder base)and install a set of chromoly (APE) studs.  Keep in mind that the cotters for the 78s valves are different so aftermarket cotters and perhaps retainers may not be compatible. Quality rods are going to be very expensive.  Consider the RPMs that you are planning on running to and consider whether or not the stock pieces will be up to the task.  My 836 is biased more towards low end grunt than high RPM screaming and so far so good with stock 78K rods.  A regrind camshaft may be able to save you some $.  No question that you should replace the original cam chain tensioner guides with new parts. 

[HondaMan]

Some low-cost things to consider that make a significant difference in these 836 engines:
1. Shot-peen the rods if you go stock.
2. Get a cam sprocket (or make one) that will let you adjust cam timing. +/-8 degrees is enough.
3.  Be sure to polish the intake valves, if you use stock ones, and skim off the little lip above the face where it tends to reverse flow (upward). This will lower the beginning RPM for HP, like from 5500 to 4500 RPM.
4. Increase the spring tension on the points advancer: 1/2 turn off the coils is about right. This will delay the combustion heat to a point where it won't lug the rods if you're in too high a gear and grab a big handful: this was always a long-term issue in 836 bikes. I've seen bent rods in 10:1 engines without this mod, but this prevents it.

[jtb]

Eldar, It's inconceivable to me that you would even consider changing anything on a K8.  I thought they were perfect.

[eldar]

Well they are perfect! This would be like polishing perfect up some!

[eldar]

What is shot peening? I have heard of it but been too lazy to look it up!

[Big Jay]

Your one stop source for all of your 750 go fast stuff.

APE

http://cbrzone.com/

[HondaMan]

What is shot peening? I have heard of it but been too lazy to look it up!

It's sort of like sandblasting, but with special materials, like steel beads. It causes something like case-hardening to happen by increasing the density of the steel near the surface, giving it sort of an added box section at the surface. It also relieves the many tiny stress risers in a typical casting, making it more durable. Even after running shot-peened rods a while, shotting them again increases their strength even more. It's a neat technology, discovered by accident, and made big by Henry Ford with valve springs.

[eldar]

Probably a dumb question but since my bike has under 16000 on the clock, would it be possible to shot peen my rods? Since I am not going balls out on my build, if I can do this, that would save me around 250 minimum on stock rods. 1000 for falicons or carillos? Yeah I will save for a v65!

[dusterdude]

eldar,yes they can be shot peened,ask mike if he can do it.

[HondaMan]

Sure can. I've done it and seen it done to very old rods to help bring them back to life, especially in big-block Fords that are going from a grocery-getting heritage to a 7500-RPM drag engine. Works great, because the rods have already been stretched and destressed, might need a touch of straightening or untwisting, then another incarnation.! And, where else can you get that kind of heat treat!