Author Topic: Pinstriping  (Read 1863 times)

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Offline ieism

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Pinstriping
« on: July 12, 2007, 10:59:11 AM »
Has anyone ever tried pinstriping a tank or sidecover? I've seen some of this on tv, and it looks like something I could do myself.
The problem is, there's not many people doing it in my country and I can't figure out what materials I need. What sort of paint do they use?

I also saw some designs with goldleaf, that looked very interesting. Does anyone know what sort of glue they use for this?
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Offline oldfordguy

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Re: Pinstriping
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2007, 12:47:43 PM »
ieism:

The paint used for pinstriping must be compatible with the basecoat (ie laquer on laquer, enamel on enamel) and the easiest to use to get started with is sign-painter's enamel.  Basically, all you need is some paint, a sword-striper (a specially shaped pinstriping brush) and a mixing surface to work the paint into the brush (a magazine works great.)  The key to pinstriping is a steady hand and practice, practice, practice!

For gold-leafing, the "glue" used is called "sizing" and is specifically formulated for gold-leafing.  You actually brush or spray it on and let it completely dry before applying the leaf.  A hobby store like Hobby Lobby will have leafing kits that contain everything you need to get started leafing.  Keep in mind that a clear coat over the leafing will be required to keep it from tarnishing. 

Matt

Rocking-M

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Re: Pinstriping
« Reply #2 on: July 12, 2007, 12:49:13 PM »
no paint just plastic,

here is my duc....

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e108/rockingM/Ducati%20750%20GT/IMG_0364.jpg

then clear coat over the whole thing.

if you can't find the plastic pinstripes from a supplier there,
let me know what color you want.

Offline ieism

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Re: Pinstriping
« Reply #3 on: July 12, 2007, 03:12:24 PM »
Thanks Rocking-M, but I prefer to do real pinstripes. It's just something i've always wanted to try.
That's a greatlooking bike you have in the picture, and a really nice paintjob too. That's a GT right?

mr. oldfordguy: that's some really usefull info already. I've seen the brushes at my paintsupplier already, but they have many sizes. I guess it depends how thick you want the stripe right?

So in the US they call it "sizing". I'm a gilder by profession (I make handmade pictureframes), but it's a different technique. I think I know what you mean by sizing though. It a sort of glue that dries and stays slightly sticky right? I've seen it in oilbased and waterbased variaties.
The gold and all the other stuff I have already, and patience and a steady hand shouldn't be a problem.

maybe I'll start by buying some signpainters enamel and actually make a sign, I don't want to mess up my tank right away. ;)
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Offline mark

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Re: Pinstriping
« Reply #4 on: July 12, 2007, 10:03:56 PM »
Poke around the shop a bit and I'm sure you will find something to practice on.
Scott's pinstriping practice on Eric's air compressor - circa 1982.
It doesn't need to be a bike tank, or even your tank.
A true friend doesn't make you wipe it off!

Happy trails.
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F you mark...... F you.

Offline oldfordguy

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Re: Pinstriping
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2007, 08:42:06 AM »
You are correct, the different brushes are for different widths, as well as variation in length of the bristles depending on how curvy the stripes are you are wanting to lay down. As far as the gold-leafing, if you gild picture frames you should have no problem with it on a tank, its the same process.  I've only used the water-based gilding adhesive for auto paint applications.  I just let it cure out for a week or so before clear-coating. 

Refrigerators make excellent canvas for learning to pinstripe, and if you get some reducer for whatever type of paint you are practicing with you can wipe it right off and start again.

Matt

Offline Jugghead

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Re: Pinstriping
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2007, 09:55:20 AM »

For gold-leafing, the "glue" used is called "sizing" and is specifically formulated for gold-leafing.    Keep in mind that a clear coat over the leafing will be required to keep it from tarnishing. 

Matt

Actually, one amazing quality about gold is that it doesn't tarnish.  Ever. That's why the dubloons they find at the bottom of the ocean aren't corroded to all hell, and come up shiny.
9/72 CB350F...15k miles and rising

Offline matchanu

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Re: Pinstriping
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2007, 09:59:07 AM »
http://volksrods.com/index.htm


There are a few topics on pinstriping on this forum, good guys here.

Feel free to ask them about it, but please do a search first as most of your questions will probably be answered there.

Pinning is an art form, and takes practice.

Good luck to you.

Offline oldfordguy

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Re: Pinstriping
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2007, 12:18:58 PM »
Actually, one amazing quality about gold is that it doesn't tarnish.  Ever. That's why the dubloons they find at the bottom of the ocean aren't corroded to all hell, and come up shiny.

This is true of real gold, it doesn't tarnish, however, you will still want a clear coat on an automotive/motorcycle paint job to protect it from scratches (you can scratch it with anything, as a matter of fact, a small circle of velvet on the end of a stick can be pushed against it and turned to make it look like engine turning.)  Also, much gilding is done with other than pure gold (silver, copper, and combinations for things like variegated "gold leaf" which is actually a composite leaf,) and these other gilding materials require a topcoat so as not to tarnish as well as protect them from scratches. 

Matt

Offline ieism

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Re: Pinstriping
« Reply #9 on: July 16, 2007, 11:34:06 PM »
You're both right. High quality, pure gold ( 24 karat) is resistant to corrosion. Lower karat golds do corrode a litlle (they have up to 10% silver in them), but still last hundreds of years. Anything lower than 20 Karats needs a clearcoat.

Modern goldleave made by machines is much thinner than the old stuff, so we're not too sure how this stands the test of time. My best guess is about 250 years.

I do a lot of restaurations, so I see 300 yearold gilding pretty often. Unlike gold coins, the thin goldleave does wear off a bit. You could clearcoat it, but ussually the clearcoat doesn't last 300 years either.
For automotive application this is not a problem as they don't make cars anymore that last longer than a decade anyway ;D
If you prefer not to clearcoat (it does look better without) I suggest you use an oilbased sizing, and apply it as thin as you possibly can. Then let it dry as long as possible.
On pictureframes, we don't use any sizing. That's why it can be polished to a bright gloss, and lasts so long. This is known as "watergilding", but it can only be done on wood or plaster. My gilded frames come with a 500 year guarantee.

AND THANKS EVERYONE FOR THE FANTASTIC REPLIES! I'll go and buy materials next weekend and start practicing. When I have a decent result i'll post a picture.

Ivar
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