I've replaced some other connectors with vintage bullet connectors. I actually like them more than more modern spade and bullet connectors; however, I did see some nice but pricey 3M bullets that are rated to be highly water resistant.
I don't think I could do a neat job if I use bullets. The sheer volume would likely replicate the mess I'm trying to replace. I really don't mind soldering. I did it for a living once, although it spoiled me in terms of equipment. Now, I feel like my $20 Radio Shack butane soldering iron is a stone age tool compared to the $250 temperature controlled solderer that I learned on. On the other hand, I don't have to use a low power microscope to solder CB750 connections. ;-)
On the topic of weatherizing connections, I've become gun shy of using too much dielectric grease. I once experienced a voltage drop, and I think it was because I used too much dielectric grease right after a thorough cleaning of some white plastic connectors (are all white plastic gang connectors called "Molex"?).
What happened was that I first cleaned the contacts well with contact cleaner, blew them out with bottled air, packed some grease on the female slots, and put it back together. After I put it together, I had no connectivity in one or more terminals. I gave it another cleaning, and all was well.
Mebbe that connector wasn't good, but on the other hand, I think it was TT who pointed out that dielectric grease does not actually conduct electricity, so I've been more careful in how much I use.
I think I'll peruse the electrical supply companies to see if anything turns up.
Who is this guy "burmashave" who fell into my trap?
Mr. B: I'm an Electronics and Controls Engineer by trade, almost 30 years. Worked in side, oilfield, outdoor equipment, giagantic trucks, sonwblowers, buses, etc., etc., a looong list. Now, it's on airplanes.
Just a couple of things that will go a long way toward a bombproof system (Eurban alluded to some of them):
1. If you can manage to get them, use the gold-plated inserts for your connectors. These will carry more current with less loss, never rust or corrode, and solder perfectly. They cost about $.12 each instead of $.06 each, but worth every $.01 . A single 16 AWG size pin/socket from AMP or Waldom/Molex will carry more current than the 310 watt CB750 alternator can produce.
2. Use LPS-1, just a drop, on the ends of the insulation on every wire that you think might get wet (AFTER soldering). This will permanently prevent ingress of water into the insulation's jacket by capillary action, also preventing the corrosion that results. In the absence of LPS-1, use a drop of non-synthetic motor oil, it's almost as good.
3. Solder every connector on every wire.
4. I would recommend a pair of 16 AWG wires as your primary ground buss to the headlight. You will find 14 AWG to be very stiff and brittle at the crimped connections, and prone to vibration breakage at those points in those types of non-relieved connectors.
5. You will likely run out of physical space by using 16 AWG wires everywhere, and they really aren't needed: the headlight, followed by the coils, are the highest drain in the bike. Size the headlight high beam at (60w/12v=5 Amps, 18 AWG is plenty with a total 5-foot-long circuit) and the coils, if Dyna, at (13.6volts/ 3ohms= 4.53 amps, because only 1 runs at a time, if you use points ignition, 20 AWG is plenty). Mostly, 20 AWG is fine for any of these connections outside of that: use 22 AWG inside the handlebars.
...just my pennies' worth.
