Topic: Ticking Top End... I hate to even ask

[mikedialect]

I would wager that it isn't my exhaust because when I take the tappet cover off the noise is coming directly from there. But hey- what do I know!

Appears you know it isn't exhaust Check the valve tips and when you're in there and have removed the adjuster screw, push and pull the valve stem sideways to see how much play there is in the stem/guide. There might be a clue there.

I'm going to try and remain positive (although I was cursing about it all night at the pub!)... I'll be giving this a shot tomorrow.

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Mike, sorry I took awhile to reply to your message, I'm working on an Air Force base about 150 miles from home with no internet access, so I only get to reply when I get back home on weekends.

Anyway, yeah, the F2/F3 heads are dodgy, don't get too morose though, although a little more fragile than the earlier K's and F's, they're also the fastest and best handlers, so well worth the additional maintenance, if and when it's required.

I've had two F2's, the first one was a high mileage "one owner" that was mechanically perfect due mainly to some loving maintenance by the PO, apart from some frustrating wet weather ignition problems which eventually were cured by the replacement of the ignition switch, it never missed a beat and had no problems with the F2/F3 "Achilles heel", the cylinder head.

My current F2 which I restored and rode about 50 miles before I couldn't live with the leaking engine cases (long story) any longer and parked it for when I get time to tear the engine down again, was an "Ebay Bargain", i.e., the biggest heap of shiite that God ever shovelled guts into. You name the problem, it had it, so I spent about a year buying, borrowing and begging the guys here for parts, and all I used from the original bike was the bare frame and wheels, and some engine parts, everything else was beyond repair, and yes, the head was stuffed too, all because the PO's were dumb shiites who shouldn't have been allowed to operate hand tools.

Re: your tappet noise, yeah, it sounds like a clearance problem alright, don't think you can fix it just by tightening them up though, a little noise is a lot better than no compression due to valves not being fully closed when hot. (and they all go tick tick tick) Oil pressure on our bikes should ideally be around 60 PSI, but when hot, I've often seen oil pressure guages hardly registering past 20 psi, so I don't use the recommended oil grades in warmer weather, I like a thicker oil that "clings" to the cam and cam bearings, (the items that are too often destroyed due to oil starvation due to heat/oil pressure issues) so I use Penrite HPR30 or HPR40, and my engines seem to run cooler, and definitely quieter.

I'd suggest strongly that you fit an oil pressure gauge to test your oil pressure Mike, (have a look on Ebay) and consider fitting an oil cooler. Yeah, I make and sell cooler kits for our bikes, but I'm not trying to sell you one, however, I'd recommend fitting one to any old bike, they're cheap insurance against horrific repair bills. Try some thicker oil, and adjust your valves to .002 thou (inlet) and .003 thou exhaust. Enjoy that bike mate, they are a little fragile, but they're quicker than any of the other SOHC4's, and a pleasure in the canyons! Cheers, Terry.    

[mikedialect]

G'Day Mike, sorry I took awhile to reply to your message, I'm working on an Air Force base about 150 miles from home with no internet access, so I only get to reply when I get back home on weekends.

Anyway, yeah, the F2/F3 heads are dodgy, don't get too morose though, although a little more fragile than the earlier K's and F's, they're also the fastest and best handlers, so well worth the additional maintenance, if and when it's required.

I've had two F2's, the first one was a high mileage "one owner" that was mechanically perfect due mainly to some loving maintenance by the PO, apart from some frustrating wet weather ignition problems which eventually were cured by the replacement of the ignition switch, it never missed a beat and had no problems with the F2/F3 "Achilles heel", the cylinder head.

My current F2 which I restored and rode about 50 miles before I couldn't live with the leaking engine cases (long story) any longer and parked it for when I get time to tear the engine down again, was an "Ebay Bargain", i.e., the biggest heap of shiite that God ever shovelled guts into. You name the problem, it had it, so I spent about a year buying, borrowing and begging the guys here for parts, and all I used from the original bike was the bare frame and wheels, and some engine parts, everything else was beyond repair, and yes, the head was stuffed too, all because the PO's were dumb shiites who shouldn't have been allowed to operate hand tools.

Re: your tappet noise, yeah, it sounds like a clearance problem alright, don't think you can fix it just by tightening them up though, a little noise is a lot better than no compression due to valves not being fully closed when hot. (and they all go tick tick tick) Oil pressure on our bikes should ideally be around 60 PSI, but when hot, I've often seen oil pressure guages hardly registering past 20 psi, so I don't use the recommended oil grades in warmer weather, I like a thicker oil that "clings" to the cam and cam bearings, (the items that are too often destroyed due to oil starvation due to heat/oil pressure issues) so I use Penrite HPR30 or HPR40, and my engines seem to run cooler, and definitely quieter.

I'd suggest strongly that you fit an oil pressure gauge to test your oil pressure Mike, (have a look on Ebay) and consider fitting an oil cooler. Yeah, I make and sell cooler kits for our bikes, but I'm not trying to sell you one, however, I'd recommend fitting one to any old bike, they're cheap insurance against horrific repair bills. Try some thicker oil, and adjust your valves to .002 thou (inlet) and .003 thou exhaust. Enjoy that bike mate, they are a little fragile, but they're quicker than any of the other SOHC4's, and a pleasure in the canyons! Cheers, Terry.    

Thanks for the reply Terry.

I was wondering...

Would you recommend tightening the valves to your specs of .002 &.003 even if you weren't running that extra heavy weight oil? I'm running 20W50 and I wasn't sure if those gaps are safe for oil outside the specs you listed. thanks in advance!

(ps- I don't see any of your oil coolers listed on ebay!)

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Mike, .002 and .003 thousands of an inch is the factory recommendation, not mine. Regardless, this clearance is fine with a thicker oil, which will provide more of a "cushion" between the valve and the tappet.

I've been working away from home for the last couple of months, I'm a poorly paid defence contractor, and have been rolling out a major new contract all over Victoria (my home state) so haven't had time to do all that much in the workshop of late, and the oil cooler business has been very quiet compared to the hundred or so adapters and full kits I made and sold last summer.

I've received plenty of inquiries though, so I better get back into it! Cheers, Terry.       

[bryanj]

Setting valves is fairly easy.
with the cam in the correct place (T mark lined up) one cylinder will be on compression, now i know the book says you can adjust others as well but i ALWAYS set up to T and do just the one cylinder--remember there are two "T" marks (1 & 4 along with 2 & 3) so make sure you are doing the correct valves.

If you can lift an inlet up and down and hear a click its too wide there needs to be perceptible play without noise. The exhaust is easier, loosen the nut and tighten the adjuster down till all play is gone then back it off 1/8 turn and lock the nut, you should then find it "clicks" slightly when lifted up and down.

I know its sounds difficult but try it and see; also run the engine with the adjuster caps off and you should get oil spraying out of all of them---if not park it up!

[mikedialect]

G'Day Mike, .002 and .003 thousands of an inch is the factory recommendation, not mine. Regardless, this clearance is fine with a thicker oil, which will provide more of a "cushion" between the valve and the tappet.

I've been working away from home for the last couple of months, I'm a poorly paid defence contractor, and have been rolling out a major new contract all over Victoria (my home state) so haven't had time to do all that much in the workshop of late, and the oil cooler business has been very quiet compared to the hundred or so adapters and full kits I made and sold last summer.

I've received plenty of inquiries though, so I better get back into it! Cheers, Terry.       

Ah, I thought you were talking about MM and not inches. I have them set to .03mm & .07mm currently. Good thing I didn't go an tighten them down to that!

[UnCrash]

Setting valves is fairly easy.
with the cam in the correct place (T mark lined up) one cylinder will be on compression, now i know the book says you can adjust others as well but i ALWAYS set up to T and do just the one cylinder--remember there are two "T" marks (1 & 4 along with 2 & 3) so make sure you are doing the correct valves.

If you can lift an inlet up and down and hear a click its too wide there needs to be perceptible play without noise. The exhaust is easier, loosen the nut and tighten the adjuster down till all play is gone then back it off 1/8 turn and lock the nut, you should then find it "clicks" slightly when lifted up and down.

I know its sounds difficult but try it and see; also run the engine with the adjuster caps off and you should get oil spraying out of all of them---if not park it up!

Nice tip.

I followed this advice this weekend and it worked like a charm.  Whatchya mean by "Park it up"?

[Terry in Australia]

Bryan means "if there's no oil spraying around the inside of the valve cover, switch it off immediately, and don't ride it until you've fixed it, or you'll be sorry". Cheers, Terry. (Anglo/American translator)

[dergs713]

What was the problem. I'm in the same boat w my cb550.
Matt

[dergs713]

Sorry just read your
 conclusion. My bad.
Matt