Author Topic: 750 Tranny WHAT???  (Read 1371 times)

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Offline chippyfive50

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750 Tranny WHAT???
« on: July 30, 2007, 12:38:57 PM »
I am staring down a winter rebuild of a 72' with 60,000+ on the clock.
what is the best way to asses the transmission?
Is it territory to attempt for the untrained?
I have, and can handle top and bottom end stuff...carbs and electric, but the transmission seems
like a submarine, mysterious, complex , and you don't want it to fail.
Before I dump $$ into the rest of the motor, looking for advice... thought about finding a younger one....
thanks

« Last Edit: July 30, 2007, 06:35:39 PM by chippyfive50 »
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Offline Mark M

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Re: 750 Tranny WHAT???
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2007, 01:36:46 PM »
The gearbox etc is 'bullet proof' and not as complex as it might seem.
I assume you have clymer and or Haynes manuals - it's just a question of 'one small step at a time'
The milage yours has done should be no big deal - most wear and tear is all up top.
In the UK anything over 40 years old only needs insurance and Fuel.

Offline gtyler5

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Re: 750 Tranny WHAT???
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2007, 03:52:16 PM »
flip the engine over and work on it from the bottom, just remove the bottom half of the crankcase and you can keep the top end, crank and everything else in place
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Offline jonbuoy

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Re: 750 Tranny WHAT???
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2007, 06:14:56 PM »
flip the engine over and work on it from the bottom, just remove the bottom half of the crankcase and you can keep the top end, crank and everything else in place

Thats kind of what I decided - I didn't have any real oportunity to check the transmission  other than a quick blast up the road before stripping it down.  I'm doing the top end and barrels - if it needs transmission work I'll pull it and flip it over.  If it ain't broke etc.....

Offline Bodi

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Re: 750 Tranny WHAT???
« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2007, 07:36:54 AM »
Most of the transmission is super durable. As I recall there's one needle bearing and the rest of the gears run on plain (sleeve) bearings. Just disassemble the shafts one at a time, take a picture of the aseembled shaft and lay all the parts in order as you take them off. Check the gears for sloppy fit on the shaft, they should turn very freely but not "rattle around". The gears engage with "dogs" on the sides, check the dogs carfully for any problems, they should not be rounded off: rounded ones can be undercut by an experienced person, any missing (broken off) dogs means new parts are required. The actual gear teeth rarely break or get damaged, if a dog has broken off it can get into the gear teeth and really mess them up though.
The shift drum grooves and the rollers that run in them can wear, giving poor shifting and false neutrals.
The shift forks wear at the tips and can bend, again poor shifting and false neutrals. The forks may be identical, so you can compare them looking for any differences that would indicate wear or damage. They might be different too, I can't recall for your specific engine. However, bad wear or bending should be fairly visible. The fork fingers should be a loose fit in the gear slot they engage, there should be a spec somewhere in the shop manual for the finger tip thickness. The gear slot shouldn't wear (hardened steel) but the fingers will wear thinner.
The big ball bearings on the transmission shafts are a special type (because of the ring grooves) and are only available from Honda as far as I know. Since they are well lubricated by engine oil they should be OK, but the sprocket shaft one gets heavily loaded and should be checked carefully and replaced if you have any doubt about it.
Splitting the cases isn't a huge deal, and if you're doing a bunch of work anyway it's worth it to install a heavy duty endless cam chain and new primary chains.