Author Topic: How to stop front brake squeal. (Read 26194 times)

Tnrfd · « **on:** August 02, 2007, 11:37:54 am »

Probably a lot of tips regarding this topic here already, but this is how i cured my squeal.

- Dismantle the caliper
- Rub up the brake pads if they have a glazed suface with 400 grit sanding paper.
- Do the same with the rotor. Take your time and sand till it's no longer glossy
- Re-assemble the caliper/pads and use copper paste or some kind of break assembly grease.
- Adjust the dead pad on the caliper: Stick a creditcard etc in between the rotor and the brake pad that gets
pushed by the calipter piston when you re-assemble the calipter so the piston gets pushed slightly in. Raise the frontwheel and adjust the "dead-pad" clearance. Make sure it don't rub AFTER the locknut has been tighted. If it rubs the pad will get glazed and squeal again.

This completely cured my infernally squealing frontbrake!

olds-cool · « **Reply #1 on:** August 02, 2007, 05:33:03 pm »

Oh thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you.

Did I mention thank you? My brake is driving me insane! I almost don't want to use it because it's so damn loud.

mkramer1121 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 03, 2007, 04:52:40 am »

I have done all of this previously. This will work for about a month, then you'll have to do it again. I still like Honda's official stance on this "most squeal, some don't". We just have to deal with it, the only sure way I've found to stop it is by putting in a new piston and replacing the lines w/ SS.

flat_black_forever · « **Reply #3 on:** August 07, 2007, 04:22:14 pm »

On my bike I was getting a lot of low speed squeal, and the rotor was heating up, so I pulled it apart, it turns out my caliper was filled with crud, which led to the constant brake drag, by impeding the return movement of the piston. Problem solved for me.

eldar · « **Reply #4 on:** August 10, 2007, 11:38:06 am »

There are so many tricks to getting rid of squeal. A new piston might help but is hardly required.
So many people use DOT3 fluid without remembering that it attracts moisture.. Crud builds up inside the caliper and if it is not cleaned out well, nothing you do will help much.
Use a good brass bristle brush and clean the insides out. Clean behind the rubber seal too. Clean everything. Then once that is done, you can do the rest of your tricks.

One other trick that was left out is to cut as groove into the pad that is horizontal to the ground as the caliper is mounted on the K bikes.. This allows the dust a way out and helps disrupt the harmonic frequency. Braided lines are about the biggest upgrade other than doing a dual disk conversion.

schneider419 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 10, 2007, 01:34:02 pm »

i found that organic brake pads helped me the most. just a thought??
schneider 419

firecracker · « **Reply #6 on:** August 10, 2007, 02:57:56 pm »

Quote from: schneider419 on August 10, 2007, 01:34:02 pm

i found that organic brake pads helped me the most. just a thought??
schneider 419

LOL I just pictured road kill fur sticking out of your brakes!

eldar · « **Reply #7 on:** August 15, 2007, 08:55:32 am »

Well you know, women wear fuzzy panties. Maybe fuzzy brake pads could be the same thing!

Johnie · « **Reply #8 on:** September 10, 2007, 03:22:59 pm »

On the Goldwing board the guys say the OEM pads do not squeal but the aftermarket do squeal.

City Boy · « **Reply #9 on:** October 30, 2007, 09:40:19 pm »

I have twin discs on my 750.What works for me isgood maint.of caliper.Periodically deglaze both pucks eh,anti seize on caliper bore where puck rides, and most important,#$%*can the adjuster screw,spring, and lock nut.Also make sure caliper pivot moves freely;if not ,dissassemble and lube.Iswear by copper anti-seize.

754 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 30, 2007, 10:27:07 pm »

Yup, I never use that freaking adjuster srew and spring, ever try to take a front wheel off a dual disc bike (with them on).. UGH...........

On a 78K this summer I saw that the way the steel part of the line was mounted it was pushing the dead shoe against the rotor constantly.. check for that..

City Boy · « **Reply #11 on:** October 30, 2007, 11:01:00 pm »

Good tip on the brake line 754.These brakes are quite prehistoric,but of course they were the pioneers.With meticulus maint. they work very good though.

Gregorymoto · « **Reply #12 on:** January 03, 2008, 06:42:09 am »

Rebuild the brake, use ss line, use oem pads. thats all you need to do.

GNXFan · « **Reply #13 on:** January 03, 2008, 05:14:46 pm »

My brake never squeeled on my until until I changed the OEM pads with an aftermarket brand, Daedo I think. There may be something about the factory pads that's better I guess.

Blueridgerunner · « **Reply #14 on:** January 04, 2008, 03:23:18 pm »

My OEM pads have a groove running across the middle. The aftermarket ones do not. Wonder if that has anything to do with it?

Gregorymoto · « **Reply #15 on:** January 13, 2008, 02:49:16 pm »

No the grove line has nothing to do with it, it is what they use for pad material.
If you want contact a hot rod shop and find someone to re-pad your old ones.
That is a $$$ option but you can get better braking if you get a Hi Po materal for the pad.
Or just get OEM PADS

lone*X · « **Reply #16 on:** February 06, 2008, 08:36:26 pm »

The grove around the OEM pad is a wear indicator. Will not make any difference where squealing is concerned.

TEET76 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 07, 2008, 04:00:12 am »

ss brake lines cure this 99% of the time...I have changed over 3 of my bikes to front ss lines and the never ending squeeking went away permanently

eldar · « **Reply #18 on:** February 12, 2008, 01:22:29 pm »

The groove DOES matter. If it didnt, I doubt honda would have put it there. Plus, MANY of us here will swear by that trick. Same with vintage racers.

Tnrfd · « **Reply #19 on:** February 16, 2008, 05:15:24 am »

Just want to say that my frontbrake lasted about 5000km with a lot of stop and go city riding without squealing once after my "cure"

. Had to adjust the dead pad once in this time when i heard a faint squeal once, but thats all.

Next season (in a month or two, I live in Norway

) I have steel braided-brakelines, a Nissin master cylinder and drilled double rotors with freshly overhauled calipers. Hoping my new double brakes also will be dead quiet...

Gonzo · « **Reply #20 on:** October 23, 2008, 04:11:35 pm »

Man I am struggling with this right now as well. I recently rebuilt two calipers with new pistons and seals, re powdercoated them, added the second disc and they were both drilled and machined surfaces. Braided hoses and a 76 Goldwing master which I installed a new rebuild kit into as well. Haven't touched teh rear brakes yet.... but MAN!! How embarrassing is that squeal!! You can hear it for blocks!!

I will try cutting a line into the pads and see what that does... I have new pads front and front and rear as well. Can't stand it...

got ......to..... fix......squeal...... before.....I .....sell.....it.......

Maybe a new front end off of a CB919 with all new brakes would work...lol

Gonz

CrisPDuk · « **Reply #21 on:** October 23, 2008, 05:59:30 pm »

Cross drilling the disc helps as it gives all the over-heated material, crud and dust that causes the squeal somewhere to escape to.

Braided hoses and a decent master cylinder help too, fitting a MC from a mid '90s CBR600F transformed my bike's stopping ability

Gonzo · « **Reply #22 on:** October 27, 2008, 09:12:22 am »

I tried something a bit different starting on teh rear brakes to see if it would work.

I pulled teh pads and they had a seperation down teh center already. I applied some rubber glue to the backs of teh pads and attached some thin rubber material cut to fit to the glue. Wow....these are now some quiet brakes! I used only the rears most of the way to work this morning to make sure they got heated up (it was 40 degrees this am). No squeals. Nice....

Now to do the front pads....

The material I used we use at work for thermal testing equipment. It is two thin layers of rubber matting with metal conductor traces between them. Should withstand the heat of the brakes and hold up to the pressure.... but the quiet stopping is SUCH a relief!!

Gonz

haloskycrash · « **Reply #23 on:** March 09, 2009, 12:58:36 am »

Brake cleaner seemed to work for me. First time I sprayed them all this black gunk dripped out. Brakes also preformed way better.

audiofile · « **Reply #24 on:** March 09, 2009, 09:05:27 pm »

where do i get braided, or stainless steel brake lines. i want to try this before i go to adding another disk and caliper to the front. i've also read here that a master cylinder from a GL1000 is bigger and could improve the hydralic force behind the hand lever.

News:

Author Topic: How to stop front brake squeal. (Read 26194 times)

Tnrfd

flat_black_forever

eldar

eldar

TEET76

eldar

Tnrfd

Gonzo

Gonzo

haloskycrash