Topic: 500 / 550 oil passage bypass line

[mark]

Oil drains from the head thru the camchain tunnel - no changes there. This mod is all about stopping those pesky leaks at the sides of head and cylinder base.

I'm also looking at the left side for the possibility of hiding some of the plumbing behind the oil pump cover.

[fastbroshi]

bump

[turboguzzi]

bump

why? 

Just for the record, after crashing twice on the right side, hitting the fitting (and marshals not liking the oil leak on the track) I have moved the pick up point to the oil pressure sensor threaded hole in the oil pump. much much tidier, though not good if you are worried about the oil pressure light in a road bike. Could be solved with a longer threaded pressure sending unit or something.

Worked fine, raced with the new set up this weekend.

TG

[paulages]

bump

why? 

Just for the record, after crashing twice on the right side, hitting the fitting (and marshals not liking the oil leak on the track) I have moved the pick up point to the oil pressure sensor threaded hole in the oil pump. much much tidier, though not good if you are worried about the oil pressure light in a road bike. Could be solved with a longer threaded pressure sending unit or something.

Worked fine, raced with the new set up this weekend.

TG

didn't you read brent's advice? JUST DON'T CRASH!! 

[thehammer]

couldnt you just run the lines into the 4 holes (2 on each end) of the valve cover, under the 2 caps? Id think it'd be easier to tap into existing holes rather than drilling out new ones.

[turboguzzi]

these four holes dont feed the top oil gallery! only the blanked one between them does that.

TG

[fantino]

I'm curious about what size of oil line you can go up to without significantly impacting oil pressure... I see Bwaller used -5AN to -4AN at the split.

I found an aluminum adapter which will fit directly into the oil gallery plug threads (20x1.5) and reduces down to a -8 fitting. If I were to go with a -8 hose to a -6 split at the tee would I be okay? Or should I further reduce the -8 at the gallery to a -6 fitting so I can split down to -4 at the tee?

Thanks for any advice!

[paulages]

I'm curious about what size of oil line you can go up to without significantly impacting oil pressure... I see Bwaller used -5AN to -4AN at the split.

I found an aluminum adapter which will fit directly into the oil gallery plug threads (20x1.5) and reduces down to a -8 fitting. If I were to go with a -8 hose to a -6 split at the tee would I be okay? Or should I further reduce the -8 at the gallery to a -6 fitting so I can split down to -4 at the tee?

Thanks for any advice!

i think it mostly depends on where you have your restrictors. i use -4 lines, and the restrictors are in the tee junction, with about 12" to each side of the head past that. You obviously wouldn't want to go smaller than the size of the restrictors, but their orifices are pretty small. the bores in the main gallery that I feed off of is fairly large, so similarly it would be hard to go too big at the supply side unless you used something REALLY large. -8 is 1/2" I.D., but still smaller than the oil gallery behind it.

[fantino]

Yeah, that all makes sense for the most part, though I thought -8 was 1/2" on the OD when it's referring to hose (I'm likely wrong, I grew up in Canada and have no experience with hydraulic fittings, so AN standards are pretty foreign to me).

I'm trying to balance cost (less adapters = less $$$), with functionality and appearance (wouldn't want a big mess of adapters sticking out the side of my case...), so if I can get away with the -8 hose straight from the gallery, that'd be pretty rad. I was planning on using the stock restrictors up in the tee junction, so i'm going to go take a look at a -8 to -6 tee and see how close (or not) I would be to a fit with the restrictors I have. I can probably make a decision from there to make the lines smaller or not, I think.

[bwaller]

Just remember that even a little right side get-off can make a mess of anything coming out that gallery end, and potentially the engine case too. Keep it as tight as possible.

[fantino]

Yeah, I saw TGs skid plate which was a nice looking solution, but it didn't seem to help him out much... and those points covers definitely don't offer much of anything. I like the sound of running out of the pressure switch, but since this is a street bike, I'd rather not lose that functionality. I was considering making a more solid points cover to offer more protection for the fitting once it's all together...

[bwaller]

You can use a CB650 points cover which is a little more substantial, but doesn't "locate" on the case like the chrome cover does. I'm going to weld up a fix inside the cover to remedy that.

The downside to using the oil switch port is that it's unfiltered at that point.

[fantino]

The downside to using the oil switch port is that it's unfiltered at that point.

Good point, I didn't even think of that! Nice tip on the 650 cover!

[fantino]

Just updating this thread with a little tidbit.

Took some tracking down, and was kind of spendy (for one adapter...), but I found a slick M20-1.5 to -6AN adapter. Fits right into the oil galley plug threads. The adapter is made by an Aussie company called speedflow.





(ignore the o-ring crudely wedged behind it :-p)

[paulages]

great find!

[bwaller]

It is a good find.

The only concern is that the wider it protrudes from the end of the gallery the bigger the risk. By the time you fasten the elbow you're really out there. Maybe use a 650 cover, it's a hair wider and tougher (if you find a way to locate it) than the chrome cover. Don't forget to restrict the flow also.

I was going to attach a frame slider to the 12mm engine mounting bolt to protect it. (WAS being the key word)

Just don't crash on the right side and all is fine.  

Sorry man I quess I sound like an old poop...go for it!

[turboguzzi]

good find but would simply cut off the external thread, tap M10 in the internal hole and fit a banjo.

TG

[bwaller]

As TG says the banjo bolt is the strongest solution.

[fantino]

That is actually a good idea, too bad i didn't think of it earlier ~_~ With the way the adapter tapers on the inside, I don't think I could tap it and get enough threads for adequate purchase. Not without drilling it out for a pretty huge bolt, anyways. The obvious, and clearly most realistic solution is to just not crash. Ever. 

My intent was to make up a frame slider to protect the cases. For restriction I am doing the same thing you have done, bwaller. Two restrictors fit into either side of the tee-fitting. I've literally been buying these fittings one piece at a time as I have a few extra bucks laying around :-p

[ttr400]

I do a small range of gallery plugs if you guy's need them.

From left to right. M20-1.5, M16-1.5, M20-1.5-AN6, M16-1.5-AN6, M12-1.0-AN6

Yes the AN6 type are too long for a side fitting.

Kevin

[Kansas Honda]

 
So what is the consensus of replacing the o-rings with a soft metal replacement?  Would they clear the stud?  If you had the engine apart, and could machine the two mating surfaces to accept something like that...  It would solve the problem internally, so to speak.

[bwaller]

Could be it would work. At least on the 500/550 there is no stud involved.

[d9canada]

...
BTW, another good thing about this mod is that since the oil doesnt have to pass through the very hot cylinder block, it arrives to the cam quite a lot colder than in the stock set up.
TG

Would it be worth putting an oil cooler, perhaps from a 900C, inline from motor to top end??

[Boehler]

Hello

I am building the bypass at the moment , but got a question about the restrictor hole size.
I needed to trim two cb500 restrictors down to fit them into my T-connection, and after i finished them, i noticed theres a difference in restrictor size:

here clearly visible left one is larger:


one got approx. 0,8mm the other one is 1mm ( they are from different motors, but both cb500).
so , ideas on what to do? drill the smaller one to 1mm? other suggestions?

btw, i took the oilplug on the left side , behind the alternator,
works fine need to carve out the alternator cover a bit.


used the original plug and tapped it with m10x1:


the T-Connector with the restrictors :

[turboguzzi]

nice work.

wouldn't worry that much about restriction size

i just put a carb jet at the fitting at the exit of the gallery with a hole area equal to 2x 1mm holes.

4 seasons of hard racing at 10K rpm and cam never seized