It's funny you should prefer this. I always found that the tiny bubbles (almost like foam) moved the slowest inside the system, found places to hide and hang up, and generally took much longer to reach the master cylinder hole (or bleed nipple) and escape. High pressure and fast stroking will indeed make the bubbles very small. And, it makes larger ones into a whole lot more smaller ones. It seems like high flow and volume of fluid will get these small bubbles out. But, then there is more waste of new, good, fluid tossed asside, too.
I'm really not trying to arguing here. If it works for you and you're happy with your method, then that's great. It just seems so counter to my experience, it gave me a little chuckle.
Cheers,
Like I said in my earlier post, a solid lever in less than an hour with no rebleeding. Same with the Ducati hydraulic clutch in less than 3 hours (a notorious PITA when starting from scratch). A couple of weeks ago we installed a Magura master cylinder on my buddies K3 and had a very firm lever in about 20 minutes using the same method (still holding with no rebleeding).
When you fast stroke the lever you build up high pressures so when you crack the bleeder screw you do get high flow and volume. And it does get all the bubbles out (path of least resistance). Keep in mind, larger bubbles don't break up into smaller bubbles, they compress. And, I have never had air hang up in the system using this method. Since brake fluid has virtually no surface tension (unlike water) I don't see how air bubbles can cling to anything in the system.
Sure, you waste some brake fluid but at $2.59 a bottle for Valvoline brake fluid it is very cheap insurance. And, when I did my K5 recently I still have 2/3rds of a bottle left so now I have to do my K2 so I don't waste so much fluid in the long run. Long term storage of an opened container of brake fluid is not a good idea. Brake fluid is very hydroscopic (read serious water magnet). Which means that an opened container of brake fluid should be disposed of after about 6 to 12 months. Bottom line, don't be cheap when it comes to brake fluid and the maintenance of a major safety system.
The method I use I learned over 30 years ago when I was an auto mechanic. I learned it from experienced mechanics and was the preferred method when a power bleeder wasn't available (as in our shop). It has worked extremely well ever since and is so simple.
I guess it just boils down to what your goal is when doing this sort of maintenance. Mine is I want a hydraulic system that is solid, free of air and performs as good as or better than the engineers that designed it had intended. And if that meant springing for all new seals, a piston and using a whole bottle of $2.59 brake fluid then so be it. Brakes are the most important safety system on the bike; you gotta be able to slow down and stop.
Just my .02 and again YMMV.
Cheers
